Right of left

[Templar52]

Hello , i wish to know witch wheel on a 4107 have a reverse unscrew bolts patern. I can't see
On the stud a l or a r.
Thank's

[chessie4905]

Should be on driver's side

[Dave5Cs]

Look on the end of the stud coming out for the tip of the last thread it will show you which way it comes off.

[brmax]

I recall left side typically when sitting in the drivers seat.
As mentioned some have letters L on the stud end.


Good day
Floyd

[Templar52]

Thank's guy's for the answers. Infortunely some years of painting just overcoat the letter on the studs.
So i understand that the left side of the bus,front and rear,i have to unscrew the bolts by turning them clockwise
Thank's
Alain

[chessie4905]

yes, but I'd carefully scrape end of stud to verify anyways. If they haven't been off for a long time, i'd put a drop or two of oil on the protruding threads before removal, preferably a couple of days before removal. If there is rust, paint, or dirt build up on protruding threads, clean with wire brush first. The fine threads on the nuts can be buggered if plugged with debris.

[Ed Hackenbruch]

 They might have been changed over to right hand thread. 

[chessie4905]

If they are left hand thread, they will have an L stamped on end of studs.

[Jim Eh.]

Or worse only one or two because someone was in a pinch and put in what they had.

If you have a spare inner nut or stud kicking around (even a large diameter fine thread bolt) try holding it beside the ones on your wheels if there are threads exposed to compare. It is a lot more noticeable when you hold a sample close. There should be at a bare minimum three threads exposed, if not it may be one more item that needs attention.

[Templar52]

Yes guy's good idea.
I will grind all the studs before i go to the tires man. Just in case....

[chessie4905]

You don't need three or four threads exposed. GM specs in their shop manual indicate so many turns to remove nut from finger tight seating. "Ideally, the end of the stud and outer flat face of nut should be approximately flush. This results in good-looking assembly with male threads protected against road damage and usually gives a sufficient length of thread engagement to develop full strength of stud without danger of thread stripping."
" the actual length of thread engagement present in an assembled wheel cannot be determined by inspection or measurement of tightened assembly. Distance from ball seat of wheel mounting flange to first (inside) nut thread may vary. If there is any doubt that enough thread engagement is present, number of enough engaged threads may be counted by tightening all nuts in regular manner, then loosening one to hand tight position. The number of turns to disengage from stud may be counted as it is backed off. At least seven full turns should be required to disengage a 3/4 inch nut and at least five full turns to disengage a 1 1/8 inch nut. With most of the nuts in use today, a few unengaged threads at the outer end will not cause a problem. "

[Jim Eh.]

I was actually thinking of the front axle. If there are zero threads exposed on wheel studs, 5th wheel adjustment rods, or pretty much any fastener on a vehicle it will get rejected on a government inspection. Also for hub piloted Alcoa wheels it is pretty much mandatory for any warranty claims put forward to them.

[eagle19952]

You don't need three or four threads exposed. GM specs in their shop manual indicate so many turns to remove nut from finger tight seating. "Ideally, the end of the stud and outer flat face of nut should be approximately flush. This results in good-looking assembly with male threads protected against road damage and usually gives a sufficient length of thread engagement to develop full strength of stud without danger of thread stripping."
" the actual length of thread engagement present in an assembled wheel cannot be determined by inspection or measurement of tightened assembly. Distance from ball seat of wheel mounting flange to first (inside) nut thread may vary. If there is any doubt that enough thread engagement is present, number of enough engaged threads may be counted by tightening all nuts in regular manner, then loosening one to hand tight position. The number of turns to disengage from stud may be counted as it is backed off. At least seven full turns should be required to disengage a 3/4 inch nut and at least five full turns to disengage a 1 1/8 inch nut. With most of the nuts in use today, a few unengaged threads at the outer end will not cause a problem. "

Strange...an 1 1/8" SAE stud thread is 12 tpi... (some are 14) 5 turns isn't going to work...