Black tank valve

[eagle19952]

have you taken the cap off and looked ? could just be debris on the seat...
iirc 125s is the working classification of the valve. as in steam working pressure aka 125 psi.

Your valve is called:

Threaded End (NPT) Gate Valve 2" 200 WOG, 125 SWP , Heavy Cast Bronze Body, Quick Action Lever Operated Gate Valve Quick Opening Gate Valve

There isn't much in there.

http://www.cranecpe.com/index.cfm?objectid=BAA3D637-AAF9-6554-697C0415A9F7DB35

https://mainlandvalve.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=28_132_431_3250

[richard5933]

have you taken the cap off and looked ? could just be debris on the seat...
...

That was my initial thought, only the cap doesn't seem willing to budge. I'm afraid of torquing too hard and damaging the seal between the flange and the tank.

[Tom Y]

Maybe remove hose and try going in the end with scotch brite. This is brass on brass to seal right? May be crap under bottom holding it up? May need worked more?

[chessie4905]

Probably dried residue built up in groove. Clean with old toothbrush, and small screwdriver as necessary.

[buswarrior]

Is it time to suck it up?

If it comes apart, you will see if it just needs cleaning, otherwise replacement.

If you break it, otherwise replacement.

If you dilly dally with adding band-aids.... otherwise replacement.

There's only so many hours available to work on the coach. If you burn them up fooling around, what's left for the important stuff?

One way or another, it either opens up or breaks.

No time like the present?

Take pictures of the carnage?

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[richard5933]

About 18" downstream from the brass valve is a removable cap. What if I rig a nozzle on the end of a long piece of slender pipe that I can insert from the end. With the brass valve open, I could thoroughly flush it out from the inside. The tank is empty now (other than a few gallons of RV antifreeze) so this would be the time to do something like this.

Is it worth the effort? Any chance it would dislodge what's causing the problem?

[eagle19952]

About 18" downstream from the brass valve is a removable cap.

Is it worth the effort? Any chance it would dislodge what's causing the problem?

Why the hesitancy/resistance to remove the hose ? and look ?

[richard5933]

Why the hesitancy/resistance to remove the hose ? and look ?

No hesitance in removing the hose or the clean-out cap at the end of the hose. The hesitance is in forcing the cap on the valve itself. It's really difficult to put any torque on it without causing it to flex the flange at the tank.

[eagle19952]

No hesitance in removing the hose or the clean-out cap at the end of the hose. The hesitance is in forcing the cap on the valve itself. It's really difficult to put any torque on it without causing it to flex the flange at the tank.

what is the tank made of ?

possibly remove the packing gland/stem seal and then heat the body below the cap ?

[richard5933]

Tank is made of polypropylene. My understanding is that it's pretty heat sensitive.

[eagle19952]

Tank is made of polypropylene. My understanding is that it's pretty heat sensitive.

i dn't think with a plumbers torch (propane) and an impact wrench the tank will even know you were there...

the packing gland might tho, been there done that 30-40 years ago...

[richard5933]

Added a secondary valve for now. Decided to wait until fall when I replace the tank to do anything more. Also replaced the rubber hose with a new silicon hose.

 

[richard5933]

Also added this water jet to the clean out fitting. With only a 2" waste pipe I assume we will have clogs. At least we'll have some way to clear it up without having to open up the connection. I'm hoping that with combined gray/black the contents will stay liquid enough, but I don't want to take chances of hurt being ready.

[chessie4905]

hopefully, it'll work till then.