used aluminum rims or new wheel simulators

[beatsworkin]

1980 MCI  9  with ugly steel rims with crappy paint.  22.5     I can get good used al rims for $150.00 but would have to polish them.  Then I would have transfer my tires on to the rims.      Now here is my question.  What about Wheel simulators?   Are they any good?  Do they stay on?  Which ones are good?  Which ones should I stay away from ?           

Thanks     RED

[PP]

This one is a personal choice. I spend a lot of time in salty air conditions (coast) where even stainless rusts if not maintained. As I write this I'm looking at 2 RVs with the snap in place chromed steel simulators and they're both showing surface rust. If it's a matter of budget, go simulator. Otherwise my preference would be the aluminum rims. I know, bigger hassle-gotta get those tires off and back on and a lot more money. But you asked.  
Will

I forgot to mention, if you go with the al rims, don't forget the lug nuts might be different and you'll definitely need nut covers. 

[Fred Mc]

I used ss simulators on my truck and after 10 years were just as good as new. And Im on the west coast.

[scanzel]

I has stainless simulators put on and still looking very bright and shinny after 10 years. With aluminum wheels you may have to add longer studs which from previous BCM posts can get costly and time consuming if doing it yourself removing the old and pressing in the new longer studs.

[lvmci]

Hi Red, simulators or SS hub caps are very nice, mine were easy to clean and nice looking. Pay particular attention to the installation instructions, if purchased used make sure you can get instructions somewhere.
Here's why, the simulators come with foam pads glued on the back to the wheel, wheels flex as they rotate or hit pot holes, if the flexing created a bend or kink in the simulators, they create a sound that is similar to a bearings going out, only an experienced mechanic that has seen this situation would look to the simulators first, most will pull the wheels and replace the bearings or oil, lvmci...

[Geoff]

I have a set of stainless steel simulators that are hub centered for a two axle bus 22.5 wheel.  Like new.  If interested I'll put them in the Spare Tire section of this board.

[flynbanjo]

I vote for the aluminum wheels.  Keep in mind that you may need all new studs.  You can probably find the studs cheaper but I paid 14 dollars each for all new studs for the aluminum wheels.

[Lee Bradley]

Powder coat your rims?

[Scott & Heather]

Red,  pay attention to what Flynbanjo said, the rims are the cheap part. Replacing every one of your wheel studs all the way around will cost you hundreds of dollars alone so that you can install aluminum rims. I did this so I know. You absolutely cannot beat the look and lightweight aluminum Alcoa's. I can always tell immediately between simulators and actual Alcoa's which is why we spent the money on the Alcoa's. But do be ready to spend some dough on studs and then on polishing the rims every year.


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[Geoff]

That's how I got a set of stainless steel simulators--  the owner had to have the best on his RV.  I wish he would of told me before his RV got repossessed-- I would have been happy to swap his rims back to the simulators for the Alcoa's. The bank didn't care.

[PP]

Thanks Scott, I forgot all about the bi-annual polishing 

[chessie4905]

If you live in the right area, you could have them chrome plated.

[Lifes2short4nofun]

I labored on this and decided since I wasn't buying new tires right now I decided to have the painter paint the wheels.  

[HB of CJ]

Respectfully ...

No matter what you chose, there will be some $expense$.  Keeping what you have.  Big hub caps.  Aluminum wheels.  Tires.  Have you considered shopping around the big truck wrecking yards for take off wheels, studs, tires and perhaps a package deal for installation?

Sounds like your Bus Conversion runs a common tire and wheel combination.  This might make it much easier finding a good set of perhaps tires, wheels, studs and installation from a big rig that does not need them.  Sometimes deals can be had for everything.

But there are pitfalls using priorly owned parts.  Knowledge of what you want, how much to spend and expertise to examine and determine the used parts must work.  The Devil is in the details.  That and finding and trusting a good installer who knows what he is doing.

Are the wheels safe?  Intact.  Small or other cracks.  Are they even?  A spin balancer and measuring is a good way to tell if the wheels are true.  Age?  Same with the used tires.  Flat spots.  Out of round.  Thread life remaining.  Tire age.  Also with the studs and nuts.

Some big buses had oversize or unusual size wheels and tires.  Be sure you understand this.  Sometimes you can convert to taller wheel sizes and tires.  Be sure to consider the wheel well clearances.  Do you intent to run tire chains in the winter?  It all makes a difference.

Do you have flange or stud mount wheels?  So many things to learn up on.  Easy to find all this out.  Once you find what you are looking for in used stuff then it is fun bargaining for a package deal.  Cash is King.  You can turn an ordeal into a fun day if you smile greatly.

Make new friends.  Leave with a positive experience.  Perhaps even a polish job could be included with the aluminum wheels.  Such would be a good idea for the close inspection process alone.  Ask around the truck stops and big repair garages.  Expect to have fun.

Respectfully ...

[buswarrior]

Used wheels are available for a reason...

You need the go-no go gauge for stud-pilot wheels.

The fastener contact area wears beyond acceptable parameters, that's why there's "good looking" wheels in the wrecking yard....

Accuride has a gauge for theirs, #5401 maybe?

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior