Advice on power steering hose replacements?

[skytripping]

Neat trick.

I would think the whine you hear needs to be dealt with. It probably means you have air in the system.
Not too sure the procedure on a bus. If no info is forth coming ... after the bus has sat for a good length of time you could try jacking the steer axle and rotating the steering from lock to lock, first without the engine running and then with the engine running. Steadily but not too fast. From the pics it does not look like you would be able to get at a bleed screw even if it had one.

Thanks Jim. Instructions for bleeding the system are found in the steering section of the service manual (PDF) http://busrvparts.com/PDF_Files_MCI_9_Maint_Manual/MC-9-Maint_Manual_Section_11.pdf, page 11-28.



That said, I'm not sure I understand this line from step #2: "Add fluid (102-40 to reservoir and fill until oil is to bottom of fill spout in reservoir cover."

Does this mean I should be monitoring the oil level at the top cap in the reservoir (tank with the sight glass)? The reservoir is near impossible to reach right now (quite far from the doors), and I still currently have the bathroom tank in place, so if they're saying I should be monitoring the oil level at the top cap of the reservoir, I'm stuck. I can see the sight glass, but I can't easily get to the cap. I added oil at the spout which extends to the rear doors right above the right side of the engine.

[chessie4905]

They want it above sight glass, as oil will drop quickly at first and this extra amount of oil lessens the chance of sucking reservoir dry and introducing more air into system. Even in a car, I over fill reservoir for same reason. I start engine, put pressure on wheel and instantly shut engine off. I recheck oil level and repeat till level stabilizes at full window. Then, I turn wheel lock to lock, avoiding contacting stops and applying pressure. This can be done with wheels off ground, but not necessary. Since you have had it running, the level won't change much, just need to cycle 6 or more times. Sometimes a half hour rest helps if you get fluid foamy.

[Iceni John]

Because it's a pain in the patootie to fill my PS/hydraulic reservoir through its fill opening in the top, even when using a funnel, I devised a much simpler and easier way that results in NO fluid being dripped or lost.   There was an unused 1/2" port in the bottom of the reservoir, so I used that for a new Fumoto oil-drain valve there that makes draining the entire reservoir much easier.   To this valve I've attached a 3-foot length of clear plastic 1/2" tubing that has a funnel inserted into its other end and secured with a small hose clamp.   The funnel has a loop molded into it for hanging it, so I made a hanger from wire that hooks onto the funnel and hangs from the bodywork nearby  -  this way the funnel is above the reservoir's top vent, with the transparent tube connecting it to the bottom of the reservoir via the Fumoto valve there.   To fill the entire PS/hydraulic system I just start pouring fluid into the funnel, and it fills the reservoir up from the bottom.   It's easy to see exactly how full the reservoir is, and after starting the engine and turning the steering from lock to lock a few times I can then top off the fluid.   When it's full I just close the valve and hang the funnel and tube up next to the reservoir, ready for the next time.   No drips, no mess, no guess work  -  in fact it's almost fun doing this!

In addition to the Fumoto valve in the bottom of the reservoir I also put one in the hydraulic/PS fluid's cooler which is now at the lowest point of the entire system.   To drain the entire system I just open both valves with buckets underneath, and in a few minutes all the Dexron is out except for a small amount remaining inside the PS hoses.   Easy!

John