How to get under Bus without air?

[Scott & Heather]

I don't know which tank this is. It's the one that creates the hump on the back luggage bay wall in MCI's. Can anyone tell me what size those flare nuts are? Appear to be 1-1/8". They are huge. My 1-1/16" open end doesn't fit on them. But it's close.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Scott & Heather]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Oonrahnjay]

yup, bending rods and mirrors...good old 1109 rod

which is really 6011. 

     Just don't weld your 710 cap shut!

[Scott & Heather]

Hey does anyone know if I can cut a small access hole in the rear luggage bay wall to access those air lines better? I'm grasping at straws. Waiting for the crowfoot to arrive Thursday. My nice weather window is closing and I really need to get our family to Michigan soon. Our baby is due in 4 weeks. Hospital and OB are up there. We are down here. Not cool.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Jim Eh.]

Some JB weld may get it sealed enough to save you a tow bill to a shop. Around here, the welder would have to have a pressure vessel welding ticket (boiler). Probably not the item to let someone "practice" on.

[Dave5Cs]

If that is the one in your rear bay against the bulk head, on the driver side the wall around it on the inside of the bay comes out. screws at the top and bottom. About 6 screws and it bends to come out. That should be your dry tank.
Scott JB weld is really good stuff and drys over night. Clean it good with acetone or alcohol, wire brush, sand paper etc. Then apply let dry and apply some more and let dry.

[chessie4905]

Forget trying to fix it yourself. Even if you get that tank unhooked and repaired or replaced, how would you ever get all those rigid, fine thread copper fittings reconnected without crossthreading or refusing to start without full access to area? The big lines refuse to be manipulated in cramped access. Having it towed to a place with pit or hoist would be ideal. Wrecker services with experience towing a bus can handle locked brakes issue.

[Scott & Heather]

Jim I have no doubt I can JB weld it. I've had excellent results in the past. But I don't have physics access to the crack by sight. Only by feel. The Photo was using my smart phone held up where I can't see. So to properly clean and JB weld it requires I access the crack visually or remove the tank. Dave, I don't think I have this removable panel but I'll look closer today...

Chessie, that's exactly what I'm afraid of. I can't see how I'll be able to lift the heavy tank back into place, get the mounting nuts and bolts back on and how on earth will I be able to thread those huge flare nuts back on without cross threading. Ugh.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[B_K]

Scott you'll be able to do anything that a "shop" can do yourself, it might take longer, but in the end you can do it the same as they can. Biggest difference is if they cross thread something they walk to a parts bin and get new ones out and add it to the bill.
I ain't saying a shop can't do it faster with more tools and equipment available, just that they charge for everything they do and that is how they afford to buy all those fancy tools and gadgets.

IF IT WERE ME, (and I know it's not) I'd take a chance on using lots and lots of brake cleaner in the area of the leak and then soak a scouring pad like an SOS pad or similar and scrub the area as best as possible and then mix up a full batch of JB weld using both full tubes and smear it all around that bracket and let it dry. Once dried it will probably hold enough to get you (A) where you are headed, (B) able to release brakes to drive it up on ramps, or (C) able to drive it to a shop vs towing it there.  (I'd judge the ABC by how well it holds air when started.)
Once at a safe better location it will be easier to repair properly.
  BK 

[somewhereinusa]

Scott, if you are still in Warren, IN I'm less than 20 miles from you. Don't know what I can do to help but feel free to message me. Tools? parts?

two six 0,two two four,four three two 0

Dick

[Geoff]

I don't know if JB Weld will work under 125 psi of air.  I would try the Flex-Steel spray after cleaning. I have a colonoscopy type camera for repairs like this.  (I forget the name of it for autmotive uses)

[oldmansax]

Scott, I'm with BK here. I know it's not a permanent fix but you're in a bind. Clean it the best you can. Use those throw away rubber gloves. Goop the JB Weld on as good as you can. Two or three applications if you have time. May have to use a heater for it to cure. That should get you to where you need to be and get the coach high enough to really get up in there and fix it. Even if it leaks some you can get where you're going.

I feel for you, man...... I've been right where you are on old trucks.

TOM

[buswarrior]

If the drive wheels were off, is that enough access?

Watch, SOS pads have soap impregnated in 'em. Course steel wool will do the job.

Get these jobs separated. First job is access, then the repair.

Can you get air to the suspension? Choose a side to pull drives off, JB weld prep and apply. Go about your business and decide what to do about the long term later.

the tow needs air in the suspension anyway... time spent is money saved.

This would be so much easier standing there beside you...!

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

[DoubleEagle]

Is the crack along the mounting bracket? That would make a JB Weld repair easier. Consider that it might have been cracked for some time, and the prolonged sitting and deep cold opened it up further. If you heated the tank it simply might close up the crack tight enough for the compressor to keep up.

[luvrbus]

Looks like that has been leaking for a while and he probably has a another air leak besides his tank.