How to get under Bus without air?

buswarrior · January 08, 2018, 04:46:29 PM

How often did you drain the "drain daily" valve in the engine compartment? Number one disablement on a busnut owned MCI, lack of regular draining, the discharge muffler has a slug of water in it, freezes, and that's the end of air system functionality.

As robust as it is, it is possible to burst the discharge muffler by deep freezing, though you really need bad luck...

A lowered body and unable to air up, this is exactly the condition for which the busnut measures, and chooses a squat hydraulic jack that will fit.

On the concrete, the proper jacking point can't be accessed? under the radius rod isn't the place.

Do you have a shop compressor? Do you have fittings on the aux tank? Is the aux tank up under the driver on a "C"? The aux tank feeds the suspension. Depending on the condition/design of your other invisible air system valves, you may or may not be able to keep air in the aux tank, and get the suspension to raise up.

Where is the air drier on this beast? Feeding alcohol and related products into the air system ahead of the drier will make more trouble, the desiccant will turn into mud, and foul the purge valve, royally screwing you a little later on in the winter. The alcohol has to be introduced to the wet tank, downstream from the air drier, if that is going to be attempted. The wet tank needs to have fittings, and you need a way to pump it in.

As noted, a long solid rod/bar/stick, placed against whatever is leaking, and whack the end of it with a hammer.... DO NOT MISPLACE IT and WHACK the FITTINGS OFF THE VALVE!!! It MUST be against the valve body, and not against some part that will snap. Whack it with engine running and air whooshing, so you get some feedback on whether your efforts are close.

And then plan for the offending valve to be changed out, it will stick again...

Every busnut reading this... what's your plan for adding fittings to your coach tanks, and testing whether theoretical air system recovery methods work, on your coach, on a warm sunny day?

happy coaching!
buswarrior

Scott & Heather · January 08, 2018, 05:37:46 PM

I have shop air and have been using it. I do drain the drain valve often. It was drained just before parking the coach while the compressor was running. I maintain the air system, which is why this stumps me. I'll go back at it tomorrow in the light of day.

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Iceni John · January 08, 2018, 06:32:06 PM

Quote from: buswarrior on January 08, 2018, 04:46:29 PM
Every busnut reading this... what's your plan for adding fittings to your coach tanks, and testing whether theoretical air system recovery methods work, on your coach, on a warm sunny day?

happy coaching!
buswarrior

My electric compressor's tank drain is how I can also feed shop air (or air from a big wrecker truck . . .) into the accessories tank, then a new valve there allows that air into the wet tank. This way I can quickly air up the accessories system or the entire bus from the electric compressor or from outside air. Crown also put an easily accessible Automotive male fitting on the end of the wet tank's drain. As the Scouts say, "Be Prepared".

John

Jim Eh. · January 08, 2018, 09:05:34 PM

If you can get to your compressor disconnect the delivery line and pour in some brake line antifreeze, then reconnect it to the compressor and fire it up again. Brake line antifreeze is not as harsh as methyl hydrate on your air system components.

If it is a blown line it obviously won't help but if that is the problem it MAY just work.

DKO · January 09, 2018, 05:28:52 AM

Can you get a camera phone in there via a long selfie stick? Set the phone on video and try to see the problem. It has worked for me on several projects but I have had to put the phone in there over and over and over for 45 to 60 seconds at a time to get just the right view.

Davy

scott332 · January 09, 2018, 06:02:56 AM

Can you get a jack under the tag axle, and remove the wheel? Maybe you could get far enough in there to see where the air is coming from.

Fred Mc · January 09, 2018, 09:05:04 AM

"Can you get a camera phone in there via a long selfie stick? Set the phone on video and try to see the problem"
Its amazing how often a cell phone (camera) comes in handy. Like when your old eyes can read small print or something you can't see clearly.Take a picture and then enlarge it on your cell phone. I just did this yesterday to see the size of my injectors.(N60).

Fred

Dave5Cs · January 09, 2018, 09:50:02 AM

Scott can you get a jack under your hitch receiver maybe and lift it high enough to get under with another jack or wack the relay from there. Can't figure out why you have the rubber blocks under the Radius rod ends rather than the jacking points. Have you tried to hookup air to front Brake release Schrader valve in front tool compartment . If it would hold enough air to release the brakes and you can start the engine you should be able to get off those blocks. Just some ideas.

Scott & Heather · January 09, 2018, 09:54:52 AM

Finally got under the bus...and I have a small crack in the very top of the tank Right where it mounts to the coach body. Ugh. This sucks majorly.....

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Geoff · January 09, 2018, 10:14:17 AM

I keep seeing Flex-Steel commercials on TV. Wonder if it would work with a little cleaning. It might be available at Home Depot.

Templar52 · January 09, 2018, 11:07:33 AM

Your tank is looking resonnabily in good shape. So a little of soldering will get back your bus on the road again.

Scott & Heather · January 09, 2018, 11:12:55 AM

Yeah I'm trying to remove the tank right now. It's a pain... shoot me now

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neoneddy · January 09, 2018, 11:14:48 AM

My $.02 here, again, the noob, but when I bought my bus it had a 1/4" hole in a copper line in the tunnel... it still built air albeit slowly and with use of the right foot.

I'd say a little bit of 80 grit sand paper to clean the area down to clean metal and some steel stick putty would patch it up enough to move it. IF that is the issue.

chessie4905 · January 09, 2018, 11:38:34 AM

I'd make it easier to clean up. Buy one of those handheld sandblasters and use it to clean area and then use the epoxy stick to temp fix till you can replace tank.Or you could get a small needle scaler from Harbor Freight, although if metal is thin in area, you could end up with a pretty large hole

https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=hand+held+sand+blaster&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=153672935751&hvpos=1t1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14933584188329912486&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9006537&hvtargid=aud-395862694963:kwd-747168669&ref=pd_sl_5czgnphne4_b

Scott & Heather · January 09, 2018, 12:07:31 PM

I'm afraid to try and patch it in place because if it fails while I'm on the road, I'm up a creek without a paddle. So I'm pulling the tank and will take it to a welder and have it done. Rest of tank appears really solid.

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