Do you carry a spare tire?

[jmblake]

I'm with Scott, I run 22.5s but would only run with the tag chained up just to get to the tire shop or safely off the highway.
Jason

[belfert]

Speaking of carrying the heavy @$# impact gun I saw a tire guy changing a flat tire on a bus with a cordless impact gun. I never knew those guns could produce enough torque to remove and replace the lug nuts on a bus or truck 

I bought a Makita 3/4" battery impact wrench specifically to remove lug nuts on my bus.  It won't even budge one even thought it has something like 1,250 foot pounds of torque.  It could be that my lug nuts have been overtightened.

[chessie4905]

Just like on a car, lug nuts take more to break loose if they haven't been touched for a long time.Rust, and salt corrosion adds to this. Many times, the torque ratings on impact wrenches are suspect. If you want to count on an electric or smaller air impact out on the road, carry a quality 3/4 or 1 inch breaker bar with quality regular socket or impact socket, 3/4 or 1 inch x 12 inch extension, and a 4 to 5 foot piece of pipe that will slip over handle to break loose any pesky ones. You will also need some type of support for extension used on rear wheels. 

[richard5933]

Anti seize compound is our friend.

Richard
1974 GMC P8M4108A-125 (Current bus)
1964 GM PD4106-2412 (totalled Sept 2017)
Located in beautiful Wisconsin
KD9GRB

[luvrbus]

Anti seize compound is our friend.

Richard
1974 GMC P8M4108A-125 (Current bus)
1964 GM PD4106-2412 (totalled Sept 2017)
Located in beautiful Wisconsin
KD9GRB

This will get it going  it is my friend also Richard

[Geoff]

I use WD-40 on wheel studs. NeverSieze is messy.

[bevans6]

This is quite handy in stabilizing the wrench head when using a long pull handle. . . . .

OK, THAT wrench tree is a bloody good idea!  I'm going to make me one of those!  In terms of the general thread, I do all of my own wheel changing, I have all of the tools needed, and I carry an old "get off the road" spare.  I would not hesitate to get stuck in to changing a tire either, the bigger the tire the easier it is to get off, once you pop the bead off.  In my shop, mind you, for the first time at least!  I use antiseize  also, on the threads only, not the ball seat.  My friend the licensed mechanic and tire dealer told me he would lose his license if caught using antiseize  (in Ontario, CAN) or not using a currently certified torque wrench for final tightening.  There was a real spate of trucks losing wheels a decade or more ago, and the laws got pretty tight in response. 

[lostagain]

I will stay off the lube/not lube subject...

But I have seen tire shops put on lug nuts with a 1" impact as tight as it will go, then go around with a torque wrench and check them. The wrench clicks, the nuts don't move because they were over tightened with the gun, so they think it is all good because it tells them they're at least 450 lb, or whatever the wrench was set at. So it must be the right way... ! That is why I do my own, and will do as long as I am able.

JC

[luvrbus]

OK, THAT wrench tree is a bloody good idea!  I'm going to make me one of those!  In terms of the general thread, I do all of my own wheel changing, I have all of the tools needed, and I carry an old "get off the road" spare.  I would not hesitate to get stuck in to changing a tire either, the bigger the tire the easier it is to get off, once you pop the bead off.  In my shop, mind you, for the first time at least!  I use antiseize  also, on the threads only, not the ball seat.  My friend the licensed mechanic and tire dealer told me he would lose his license if caught using antiseize  (in Ontario, CAN) or not using a currently certified torque wrench for final tightening.  There was a real spate of trucks losing wheels a decade or more ago, and the laws got pretty tight in response. 

I use never seize on the ball seats of my Alcoa's brush it on wipe it clean sure saves on the steel nut peeling away the aluminum on the $ 400.00 wheel

[chessie4905]

Ok, let's get into it....
Don't use neverseize on wheel tightening parts. One it collects dirt over time and causes thread wear over time. Those are fine threads and any dirt/ antiseize residue packing in the root of thread is going to cause breakdown over time. Two, the torque specs are for clean, dry threads on fasteners. With any kind of lube on those threads you will be over tightening the fasteners by a significant amount. C, inspect your studs and nuts. After many years many need replaced from wear, especially if you experience a stripped or pulled threads on std or nuts.

[richard5933]

Ok, let's get into it....
Don't use neverseize on wheel tightening parts. ...

That is somewhat of a different opinion from the techs at the shop here in Milwaukee. The mechanic working on our bus has been doing so for decades, and he informed me that it's necessary to use some type of anti seize compound and that they do so on all the vehicles they work on. Maybe it has something to do with the harsh winters and the amount of road salt used up here?

[Geoff]

Like I said before, I use WD-40.  It dries out, and avoids seizing a lug nut on the threads from a total lack of lubrication. I would never put a rusty nut on a rusty stud.  I have had to cut stripped truck nuts with a cutting torch several times.

[chessie4905]

There's enough alloy in those grade 8 bolts and nuts to avoid rust. Look it up on Alcoa or other Wheel site or GM shop manual, or HD truck sites.

[luvrbus]

There's enough alloy in those grade 8 bolts and nuts to avoid rust. Look it up on Alcoa or other Wheel site or GM shop manual, or HD truck sites.

They will rust I cut many off because of rust or they will twist off with a 1 inch gun

[gumpy]

There's enough alloy in those grade 8 bolts and nuts to avoid rust. Look it up on Alcoa or other Wheel site or GM shop manual, or HD truck sites.

Wheel studs are not grade 8. Some nuts may be, but not all are. They will rust.