Strange problem with 6V92 shut off lever

oldmansax · November 09, 2017, 04:40:51 PM

This started all of a sudden. Tried to start my mechanical 6V92 and it spins over fine but no start. Upon investigation I found the shut off lever does not travel to RUN position when the key is turned on . Mine has a remote air cylinder with a cable connected to the lever. Air cylinder releases, cable is slack, but lever does not move. Is there suppose to be a spring connected to the lever to move it to RUN position. There is not much room there to see and my back doesn't want to let me contort myself enough to see what's going on.

TOM

Geoff · November 09, 2017, 05:01:22 PM

You just need some lubrication in the system. Just like air tools. I've seen where bus owners will install an oiler on the air line.

oldmansax · November 09, 2017, 05:19:07 PM

The air system is not the culprit. It's working as designed. The cylinder exhausts and the cable is completely slack. The lever itself does not move.

I am going to inject some Marvel Mystery Oil in the air system though. I have some valves at the front that are slow.

TOM

bevans6 · November 09, 2017, 06:48:49 PM

I've seen the lever seize up. It's just a steel rod through the bare aluminum cover of the governor, and corrosion comes easy. Get some lube in and work it, or better take the cover off and free it up on the bench.

Geoff · November 09, 2017, 06:54:01 PM

Okay-- the stop lever goes into a fork in the governor. If it is getting stuck, you may have something worn out.

luvrbus · November 10, 2017, 04:57:54 AM

That lever is spring loaded by a spring under the cover could be it broke or jumped out of place

oldmansax · November 10, 2017, 05:57:50 AM

Quote from: luvrbus on November 10, 2017, 04:57:54 AM
That lever is spring loaded by a spring under the cover could be it broke or jumped out of place

I looked at it again and found if I pull the lever towards the shut off position AFTER the air cylinder releases (cable is slack at the lever) I hear a very faint click and the lever moves by itself to the RUN position. Gotta be something internal. I really hate to have to take all the insulation off the exhaust pipes to get to it too. It's all original and looks good!

TOM

neoneddy · November 10, 2017, 09:53:18 AM

Out of curiosity, how and where do you intentionally add oil to the air system. Makes sense. I have an issue with my shutoff air solenoid too. It's finicky, usually after a goo 2-3 hour run it won't want to shutoff. All it takes is a tap on the solenoid for it to popout.

eagle19952 · November 10, 2017, 11:18:04 AM

Quote from: neoneddy on November 10, 2017, 09:53:18 AM
Out of curiosity, how and where do you intentionally add oil to the air system. Makes sense. I have an issue with my shutoff air solenoid too. It's finicky, usually after a goo 2-3 hour run it won't want to shutoff. All it takes is a tap on the solenoid for it to popout.

i just take the hose off the clamping cylinder and put a small squirt of light oil in it directly...

i am not sure every part of the air system likes oil...
on second thought, yes, i am sure.

Geoff · November 11, 2017, 09:51:05 AM

Quote from: eagle19952 on November 10, 2017, 11:18:04 AM
i just take the hose off the clamping cylinder and put a small squirt of light oil in it directly...

i am not sure every part of the air system likes oil...
on second thought, yes, i am sure.

Your assurance has come into question. There are different types of oil. Engine oil is bad for air systems, but air tool oil is good for the stop clyinder.

luvrbus · November 11, 2017, 09:58:15 AM

You don't want to add oil in a system if you have a air dryer, air dryers are a blessing and a curse on the older vehicles

eagle19952 · November 11, 2017, 01:32:30 PM

Quote from: Geoff on November 11, 2017, 09:51:05 AM
Your assurance has come into question. There are different types of oil. Engine oil is bad for air systems, but air tool oil is good for the stop clyinder.

i am sure it is Geoff, but added in the wrong place and over used it ain't good for relay and other valves and components in the brake system. there isn't any rubber in an air wrench. around here more is better... often.
ps air tool is light oil, so is 3 in 1 and some gun oils... you did read where i said i take the hose off and oil the clamping cylinder... or this...
i am not sure every part of the air system likes oil...
on second thought, yes, i am sure.
but thanks for your input.

richard5933 · November 11, 2017, 01:44:20 PM

I'd stay away from 3-in-1 oil for anything of value. I used to restore antique sewing machines, and one of the '3' components in 3-in-1 oil will turn to varnish after being exposed to heat and time. Nearly every machine which encountered 3-in-1 oil in its life had to be soaked in kerosene to break the mechanism free of the varnish which formed.

eagle19952 · November 11, 2017, 01:59:39 PM

Quote from: richard5933 on November 11, 2017, 01:44:20 PM
I'd stay away from 3-in-1 oil for anything of value. I used to restore antique sewing machines, and one of the '3' components in 3-in-1 oil will turn to varnish after being exposed to heat and time. Nearly every machine which encountered 3-in-1 oil in its life had to be soaked in kerosene to break the mechanism free of the varnish which formed.

i'm talking about a clamping cylinder...it will exhaust whatever oil you put in it. the tolerances are not sewing machine close clearances.
but, good to know

luvrbus · November 12, 2017, 07:22:45 AM

Air tool oil is just straight mineral oil with no paraffin wax to allow any build up that is all I have ever used lol works good on sewing machines too