Jack stands - Page 2
 

Jack stands

Started by richard5933, August 31, 2017, 04:34:45 PM

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PP

Quote from: Zephod on September 01, 2017, 12:34:50 AM
Digging an inspection pit helps :)


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Yes, that would go over real well in an RV park or someone's driveway haha  ;D

PP

Quote from: sledhead on September 01, 2017, 08:42:22 AM
how about this

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/maximum-3-ton-aluminum-axle-stands-0091627p.html

dave

My screw jacks are rated higher than these and only cost a few bucks each at the wrecking yard. They were factory items with 1 ton chevy trucks and easily lift a 1 ton truck plus they're infinitely adjustable. I won't crawl around under the bus with them in place, but they hold it up just fine if I level it with the air system first.

Zephod

Quote from: PP on September 01, 2017, 08:44:55 AM
Yes, that would go over real well in an RV park or someone's driveway haha  ;D
Put on a gas company shirt and start digging. Nobody will ask questions.


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Carpenter 3800 1994 on a Navistar 1994 chassis with a DT466 and alinson transmission.

Lin

Just a review

Wood blocks are good; the thicker and wider the better.  Cribbing is safer if possible. If lifting the rear, make sure to choc the front wheels.

Concrete blocks are scary!  Non-reinforced concrete can crumble easily. Now, if you have solid, reinforce concrete blocks, that could be okay but may be a bit heavy.

High capacity pin stands would be the best.  They are a little less convenient than the notched ones, but I can easily imagine one of those slipping. I could be a little paranoid there since I know that that design is commonly used in shops all over the place, but somehow they seem more appropriate for a car than a bus.

Lesser rated stands, screw jacks, mobile home stands, etc could be an option if you are just trying support the suspension and not lift the bus.  Of course, you would really want to know the weights you are dealing with and not just guess that it's good enough.  Also, be sure that the rating you are given is for one unit.  Sometimes these types of things are sold given the weight rating for two.

Another option for home base is to build some ramps. There have been discussions of different methods for this before.  Driving up on your leveling blocks could also give you enough safety clearance. Aside from wooden ones, I have seen where 1" thick stall mats were cut into strips to be piled up for leveling.  Those things look like they are indestructible, and piling 6 or 8 of them together would give you some decent space.
You don't have to believe everything you think.

windtrader

QuoteAside from wooden ones, I have seen where 1" thick stall mats were cut into strips to be piled up for leveling.  Those things look like they are indestructible, and piling 6 or 8 of them together would give you some decent space.
Thanks! I'm ordering those. Inexpensive and surely the safest material. solid rubber mats surely are the strongest and most durable material. One of these should make a pair quite well.
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/rubber-mat-black-4-ft-x-6-ft
Don F
1976 MCI/TMC MC-8 #1286
Fully converted
Bought 2017

Ed Hackenbruch

I put a bunch of those stall mats on my garage floor to keep it a little warmer in the winter, plus i don't like to stand on concrete for more than a few minutes. I did leave an area open so i can pull a car or truck in and jack it up without crushing the mats.
Used to own a 1968 MCI 5A and a 1977 5C.

richard5933

Made a bit of progress on a short-term plan - just wanting a bit of feedback to see if this sounds workable.

I've got two stacks of oak blocks, each piece is 7" x 7" x 2". They've got a dowel pin in the middle of each to keep them from sliding when putting under the bus, and I've got a 3/8" thick piece of plate steel to place on top to keep the bus suspension from cutting into the wood.

In the rear I'm planning to place these under the point where the engine cradle meets the rear bulkhead. That point measure about 10-1/2" when aired up.

For the front, I'm planning to place these under the front of the radius arms, at the point they mount to the body. The measurement there is just over 5" to the ground when aired up.

There is not a jack stand which is low enough, so I'm hoping to use these as a blocking method for the times I have to either reach or slide underneath. Eventually I plan to get some ramps for home use, but even that won't help if there is need to get under the bus while on the road. I'm not planning to jack up the bus when using these, I just want some type of safety in case there is a failure of the air system while I've got a body part underneath.

Richard
Richard
1974 GMC P8M4108a-125 Custom Coach "Land Cruiser" (Sold)
1964 GM PD4106-2412 (Former Bus)
1994 Airstream Excella 25-ft w/ 1999 Suburban 2500
Located in beautiful Wisconsin

TomC

I use 2" x 8" boards- 4 high nailed together. Granted they are heavy, but never have had a failure.
Tom & Donna Christman. 1985 Kenworth 40ft Super C with garage. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.

Zephod

I like being able to sit upright under my bus. Only place I have to lie down is under the engine.


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Carpenter 3800 1994 on a Navistar 1994 chassis with a DT466 and alinson transmission.

muldoonman

Quote from: Zephod on September 22, 2017, 04:55:32 PM
I like being able to sit upright under my bus. Only place I have to lie down is under the engine.


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The school buses are good for getting under but these air controlled ,come up when you start it boogers, Not so much.

Zephod

Quote from: muldoonman on September 22, 2017, 05:06:43 PM
The school buses are good for getting under but these air controlled ,come up when you start it boogers, Not so much.

I kinda like air brakes but I'll tell you this for nothing... I am not so keen on any other air stuff. My air seat on the work bus needs constant inflating. Air suspension might give a smooth ride but doesn't really help on rough roads and raised level crossings as it doesn't raise a coach high enough.

My own school bus has hydraulic brakes, leaf suspension, a dt466 and is as primitive as can be. I love it that way.


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Carpenter 3800 1994 on a Navistar 1994 chassis with a DT466 and alinson transmission.

richard5933

Quote from: Zephod on September 22, 2017, 06:26:23 PM
...Air suspension might give a smooth ride ...

And that's exactly the reason I bought a coach and not a school bus. I have driven school buses both old (very old) and new . They all had spring suspensions. I've driven coaches both old and new, and they all had air suspension. There is a huge difference between the two setups in comfort and drive-ability.

As a kid I fell in love with riding Trailways across the country. I loved the way they seemed to float down the highway. I was usually disappointed when we got to our stop because that meant I had to get off. Now I've got my own (former) Trailways coach and am very happy that it has the air suspension. I'm glad that the school bus you've got works for you and that you enjoy working on it. It wouldn't work for me - the only associations I have with school buses are, well, going to school. Not too many good times riding the bus to school for me, bouncing around in the back of the bus dreading every minute.

All the maintenance and effort my coach takes is well worth it to me. I wasn't aiming for simple - I was aiming for comfort and that feeling of floating down the road. Simple is good and I would never add complications just for the sake of adding them, but I think that the payoff outweighs the effort. In this case it really isn't even a complication, just a few steps to keep me from being crushed should a component fail.

Richard
Richard
1974 GMC P8M4108a-125 Custom Coach "Land Cruiser" (Sold)
1964 GM PD4106-2412 (Former Bus)
1994 Airstream Excella 25-ft w/ 1999 Suburban 2500
Located in beautiful Wisconsin