Floor Adhesive

[peterbylt]

The insulation is done, everything has been sealed and painted.

The floor panels, ¾ T&G Exterior Plywood were cut to size and fitted, then taken back out and sealed with multiple coats of polyester(fiberglass) Resin.
 
I am getting ready to screw them down permanently.

My question is, what has been used and what would be a good choice of adhesive or caulking to lay down on the frame rails prior to laying down the plywood?

The main purpose of this adhesive/caulking would be to eliminate any rattling/squeaking.

Currently my choice is Loctite's PL 375, what would your choice be?

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/pl_ca_375_voc/overview/Loctite-PL-375-Heavy-Duty-Construction-Adhesive.htm





Peter

[Darkspeed]

I have used this for a long time and have been very happy with it

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-PL-Premium-28-fl-oz-Polyurethane-Construction-Adhesive-1390594/202020474

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/12/34/pl_ca_prem/overview/Loctite-PL-Premium-Polyurethane-Construction-Adhesive.htm

[Jeremy]

It's an alternative approach altogether, but my bus has sheets of vinyl-skinned foam bonded to the underside of the floor; not only does it provide acoustic (and some thermal) insulation, it also acts as a gasket between the plywood floor panels and the steel beams they sit on. The foam is perhaps 1" thick but obviously squashes right down wherever it's squeezed between the panels and the beams underneath

Jeremy

[windtrader]

Rattles/squeaks - Something rubberized or silicone material would work but not offer much strength. . A strong hardening adhesive would address the noise as well as stronger deck. Then again, it would be a lot harder to pull up a panel later. Good luck!

[TomC]

My floor was in good shape-1" plywood with 1/4" rubber glued to it.
To cover the roof, I used 1/8' plywood that easily curved to the roof. Walls were 1/4" plywood. Under is 1x2 fir strips that everything attaches too. Important stuff, like the over head cabinets, were screwed into the metal. Nothing has come apart in the 17 years I've used the bus. Good Luck, TomC

[TomC]

My conversion took a lot longer than some. Why-because I put everything together with the idea of being able to easily take it apart again. Hence, the only glued joints I did were the corners of the bathroom walls. Everything else was put together with 1" L brackets with #10 3/4" hex screws using 5/16" driver on my drill. With oak, you have to pilot hole drill first, then screw in the brackets. I can literally take apart the entire interior like a jigsaw puzzle if I need. Not gluing allows flexing going down the road. I do not have squeaks or rattles. Good Luck, TomC

[jcdillin]

I used liquid nails subfloor adhesive in the quart sizes, I was burning through too many tubes with the regular sized.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/LIQUID-NAILS-Subfloor-and-Deck-Construction-Adhesive-VOC-Interior-Exterior/3365546

Paired with

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Teks-100-Count-10-to-24-x-1-438-in-Flat-Head-Zinc-Plated-Phillips-Drive-Standard-Sae-Machine-Screw/3316524

my floor is nice and solid and doesn't squeak.

[skihor]

@ home depot, Sika construction adhesive

[Zephod]

My conversion took a lot longer than some. Why-because I put everything together with the idea of being able to easily take it apart again. Hence, the only glued joints I did were the corners of the bathroom walls. Everything else was put together with 1" L brackets with #10 3/4" hex screws using 5/16" driver on my drill. With oak, you have to pilot hole drill first, then screw in the brackets. I can literally take apart the entire interior like a jigsaw puzzle if I need. Not gluing allows flexing going down the road. I do not have squeaks or rattles. Good Luck, TomC

That's how I did it too.


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[Scott & Heather]

I just laid down rolls of sill plate foam and laid my double floor on top of that. Worked perfectly. No squeaks


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