4104 Asbestos vs Fiberglass

4104SoFl · July 05, 2017, 10:20:59 AM

I'm taking down the roof panels on a 1956 4104. It appears that the insulation is orignal. Is it asbestos or fiberglass? I do not think they used fibergless until 1962, that is just a guess.

As usal any info would be greatly appreciated.

RJ · July 05, 2017, 12:14:10 PM

Relax, it's fiberglass.

luvrbus · July 05, 2017, 02:08:12 PM

People worry a lot about the insulation being asbestos,you can buy a test kit for 4 bucks to ease your mind.I don't know about the insulation but the original floor covering in a 4104 contains asbestos

4104SoFl · July 05, 2017, 02:57:23 PM

Thanks RJ & luvrbus.

4104SoFl · July 05, 2017, 03:01:18 PM

luvrbus: Can I get this test from Home Depot?

luvrbus · July 05, 2017, 03:24:31 PM

Lowes had it so I am sure Home Depot will sell it,I got mine on sale @ Lowes and the lab fees were free, so watch the lab fees

chessie4905 · July 05, 2017, 06:10:43 PM

Also the brake lining, clutch lining, and many of the original gaskets. AND any factory paint probably has lead in it. Get rid of that coach before it kills you.

4104SoFl · July 06, 2017, 03:56:18 AM

I think I will just use caution with those items chessie4905. I know I'm a youngun (60 years old). Of course if you realy want to help you could say give me $20,000 and I would get rid of it (wink wink)javascript:void(0);

chessie4905 · July 06, 2017, 06:05:32 AM

Use a good mask and goggles while removing it, as fiberglass or Rock wool is irritating and more noticeable as we get older or ancient. A good fan sealed to an open window at opposite end to a window or door will remove a great deal of this and heat.

daddysgirl · July 06, 2017, 06:54:44 AM

This, as alwsys, is preferance.
That said... the only thing I would suggest you consider is the type and location of insulation that you use to replace the old.
The opinions are as varied as the awesome people who are "nuts".
But a little research never hurt anyone, and your valid concern about asbestos led me to assume you might not want insulation over the engine and wheel wells that is combustible, or that releases cyanide gas if it burns.
I am not trying to alarm you, just pass on information I have learned.

4104SoFl · July 06, 2017, 07:01:03 AM

Good advice chessie4905. Thank You
Wow I got a message from daddygirl. Thank you also. What would you recommend for insulation. I ain't going to be spraying anything.
All the info anyone can pass on is appreciated.
Thank All of You.

4104SoFl · July 06, 2017, 07:04:31 AM

Sorry mispelled daddysgirl

daddysgirl · July 06, 2017, 07:29:59 AM

Quote from: 4104SoFl on July 06, 2017, 07:01:03 AM
Good advice chessie4905. Thank You
Wow I got a message from daddygirl. Thank you also. What would you recommend for insulation. I ain't going to be spraying anything.
All the info anyone can pass on is appreciated.
Thank All of You.

I don't spray anything either, only exception is roof...partially, but not in the rear.
what I did over the engine area: After I coated all the framing to prevent water or air:

1. covered the triangular holes in the corners of the floor panels
2. Fireproof board airsealed with fireproof adhesive on floor panels, walls and jumpseat
3. Fireproof aluminum insulation
4. Treated wool
5. final layer is aluminium with mastic between it and the frame.

Im grateful that I measured for the depth. My coach has different depths in a small area, and that mastic wont move...ever.

As I get to the wheel wells, they get the same, but step 1 comes wet so it can be molded around the contour, and they dont need wool. I will also purchased stainless steel over the fiberglass on the outside
(Thanks to a tip I was given on this board). Tire fires burn a lot of buses and the engineers put the lead acid batteries in the front for a reason