Radiators, doors and speed questions.

[daddysgirl]

I was reading Windtrader's post discussion, and it prompted a question or two. I didn't want to stray off topic, so...
Most of you know I'm in the process of an overhaul of my MC8. Doing inside and out.

Radiators: (cooling system designed and installed by "Dean's Coach" in NC). A month or so back, I removed the blower compartment door and the radiator door, scoop, and screens. I have always known and understood the radiator doors should be tight...no large gaps that can suck air (or water) in unwanted areas.

Here's the rub...My father's very last words on this earth (literally) was "Andi, the radiators...the radiators", as he was making a curving arm gesture.
When I removed the radiator doors, I noticed that the radiators on both sides stick out about 3/4" from the frame. They accommodated them on the inside by altering the shape/opening in the jumpseat.
But when the outer doors are attached, I have gaps on both sides. The cooling system works wonderfully...no overheating, no rust etc, save a small spot I'm addressing behind the filler door.

So, to my question...I could easily modify the doors by cutting in a 1" rectangle (to accommodate the radiators) and covering it with a rectangular channel so the doors sit flat on the frame. I'm looking to the wisdom of my fellow nuts. Anyone think of any issue...or a different idea?

Engine speed et al... : As I said in Windtrader's post, I have no problem with 80-90 MPH...no problem with mountains, etc. Although I'm 99.9% sure dad upsized the injectors, I have no idea about any of the gear settings, sizes, etc. I have never had the need to change gears on the automatic shifter, and never seen smoke of any color.

If and/or when I add a turbo to the engine, ( have it added I should say) in addition to the other adjustments that will be made, should I change the oil bath air cleaner to a paper type? If you've already done this, what did you use? Are you happy with it?

Thank you in advance for your thoughts
Andrea

[Dreadnought]

Andrea, I don't see any issue that I can think of in cutting a 1 inch hole to accommodate the radiators.

Do you know what modifications were done to the radiator/cooling system?

I'd be interested to know.

I would echo that your bus has bigger injectors. I'm quite surprised that you don't see smoke at low rpm. I have C60s on mine. Do you have any idea what types you have?

I wonder if the supercharger is being driven harder to supply more air to reduce smoke at low rpm (low rpm is traditionally where our 2 strokes scavenge poorly- hence the black smoke).

My intention is to one day fit an 8v92 Turbo, but I'll have to tackle potential cooling issues - I have the dimensions for the MC8 radiators which seem 2 inches thicker and 5 inches taller - so I would need some fab work to accommodate. I also know the blower motor pulley size and could seal the radiator surrounds better.

A long way off now- as my 8v71 is in good condition.

On an unrelated note- you mention your father a lot- and its obvious you miss him. That's quite touching.

I miss my mum every day...

[Geoff]

Andrea

The way you describe your radiators, I would guess that your dad had mc-9 radiators​ installed and the installers​ did the minimum to get them in, so the doors don't close right.  By all means if you can get the radiators​ to fit better so the doors close right then go for it.  The radiators​ are the ones that have to seal, the doors fitting tight is for looks.

--Geoff

[daddysgirl]

Geoff: Yes, Dean installed the entire MC9 system. I found the receipt. He did a fantastic job...minus the hinge doors. But thanks for your concurrence on my fix.

Dread: The upgrade was to the MC9 system. I do not yet know what size injectors he used, but based on my lack of issues (thankfully) with speed, hills, etc...I have to assume they're larger.
I still have the huge, PITA oil bath air filter on the left rear by the rear junction box. All my air is forced through oil. I'm like you...My engine runs great (when I'm running) and has less than 75,000 miles since it was new from MCI. But I would like to add a turbo at some point.

And, yes, I miss him every day...Thanks for the kind words, and back at ya! But we built three (two and 1/2 really. I didn't do much on the 40's model Greyhound) buses and re-built umpteen different cars together. The current bus needed to be updated, and working on it gives me a way to both connect with dad and yell at him for the things he did that I wanted to do differently. I'm confident the door gaps is what he was trying to convey, and I think because "bus matters" were his final thoughts my fixing them is what he expected. I'm a 5th generation only child...I never doubted his love, and he knew it. He just wanted me to fix the bus
That task BTW...would be nearly insane without the help and information you all give me.
Thanks...really.

[Geoff]

I am 100% in favor of dry filters.  You need to talk to Luke at US Coach, or Caylor Supply, and B&B in Las Vegas.  They would know and can supply the correct air filter and hose if relocating the filter is in mind.

As far as adding a turbo, Tom C would be happy to tell you what he did, but find out how much it cost vs. putting a good 6V92TA @ 350 HP (keeping the current new radiators), or taking a real plunge and a lot more work and cooling with an 8V92TA @ 500 HP.  Then there is the four stroke engine option which is even more work.  You can't just slap a turbo on your current engine without internal changes.  My opinion is to keep what you have now as it sounds like it runs good and has good power.

--Geoff

[buswarrior]

Trace back the air intake from filter to outside.

If it is still gasping through that little hole tucked in the corner of the radiator intake...

Lack of air contributes mightily to overheating.

Fred Hobe showed us how to cut a hole in the strategic place to open that up.

http://coachconversioncentral.com/fredhobe3.htm

Scroll down to "making your coach breathe better".

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[daddysgirl]

I have never had a problem with overheating...thankfully. I was thinking aloud on possibly adding a turbo in the future. I have read every Fred Hobe page I have ever found

But Murphy's Law has a way.... I want to get to the coolant filler, tank such from the inside. I have a corner rust spot that I want to fix while I'm down to frame. So, in the process of taking the aluminum cover off...I  took the interior fiberglass rear cap cover off first. And guess what?

ALL SEVEN OF THE FREAKING RUNNING LIGHTS ARE LEAKING!!!! Well, I'm glad I caught it when I did. I'm not surprised...and now I know why some jackass (After Dad passed) decided to install a 24 to 12-volt converter and mess up the rear light wiring. I suppose it can always be worse...and I enjoy electrical work.

AAARRRRGGGG!

[RJ]

I want to get to the coolant filler, tank such from the inside.

Andrea -

I wouldn't recommend that idea.  I think I know why you want to do that, because MCI placed the fill so high on the RR corner, and it's a PITA to reach and fill (which is another reason I carry a four-step step ladder. . .)  But do you really want to risk hot coolant spilling/splattering all over your nice interior?  Because when it does let loose (and it's a matter of when, not if), there could be several gallons dumped into your closet or all over the bed.  Rethink this one. . .

ALL SEVEN OF THE FREAKING RUNNING LIGHTS ARE LEAKING!!!

Not uncommon at all on an MCI of that vintage - I've got one on the front of mine doing the same thing.

FYI, I seem to remember that MCI Service Parts has a kit that replaces all the upper marker/clearance lights with LEDs.  Might want to check into that option since you're going to be working on them anyway.

FWIW & HTH. . .

[luvrbus]

Andrea, it easy to install a tank and pump to fill the surge tank without a ladder or monkey bars. On my 8 I installed a 3 gal tank with 2 valves and a old rv water pump I had you just flipped a switch till the water came out of the level hose close the fill and level valve and go.
My DL has a factory install pump fill it is a little more advanced than my home brew was though.Call Sam Caylor I bet he has dozens of those setup cheap ( maybe)I love the fill on the DL it is so easy if you can bend over       

[Dreadnought]

Dread: The upgrade was to the MC9 system. I do not yet know what size injectors he used, but based on my lack of issues (thankfully) with speed, hills, etc...I have to assume they're larger.
I still have the huge, PITA oil bath air filter on the left rear by the rear junction box. All my air is forced through oil. I'm like you...My engine runs great (when I'm running) and has less than 75,000 miles since it was new from MCI. But I would like to add a turbo at some point.

And, yes, I miss him every day...Thanks for the kind words, and back at ya! But we built three (two and 1/2 really. I didn't do much on the 40's model Greyhound) buses and re-built umpteen different cars together. The current bus needed to be updated, and working on it gives me a way to both connect with dad and yell at him for the things he did that I wanted to do differently. I'm confident the door gaps is what he was trying to convey, and I think because "bus matters" were his final thoughts my fixing them is what he expected. I'm a 5th generation only child...I never doubted his love, and he knew it. He just wanted me to fix the bus
That task BTW...would be nearly insane without the help and information you all give me.
Thanks...really.

Your father sounds like he was quite a man. It's nice that you share a common craft and can use it to stimulate your mind and bring yourself closer to him. I wish I had that. My fear is of my memories of my mum fading...as they inevitably do.

Learning from this board has been great. For instance I never much thought about the air filtration to the engine but I guess mine must have the oil bath system too!

[TomC]

8V-71N is an excellent engine. If I had a straight T drive using the HT740, I probably would not have turbo'd my 8V-71. Why? Since the HT740 has another lower gear and a very low reverse gear, as compared to the V730 that is basically an HT740 without 1st gear and a reverse that is geared almost like 2nd (I went 40mph in reverse one time in a very large parking lot when I chickened out). I was always afraid of stalling out with the V730, but now with the turbo, no problem. Good Luck, TomC

[windtrader]

Thanks Tom !
The entire issue about the pokiness of this motor really  idled the search.  A purchase decision is a balancing act of compromises. After reviewing my list of criteria I'm hoping the bus is rolling again.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

[daddysgirl]

Andrea -

I wouldn't recommend that idea.  I think I know why you want to do that, because MCI placed the fill so high on the RR corner, and it's a PITA to reach and fill (which is another reason I carry a four-step step ladder. . .)  But do you really want to risk hot coolant spilling/splattering all over your nice interior?  Because when it does let loose (and it's a matter of when, not if), there could be several gallons dumped into your closet or all over the bed.  Rethink this one. . .

Not uncommon at all on an MCI of that vintage - I've got one on the front of mine doing the same thing.

FYI, I seem to remember that MCI Service Parts has a kit that replaces all the upper marker/clearance lights with LEDs.  Might want to check into that option since you're going to be working on them anyway.

FWIW & HTH. . .

Hey RJ.
I'm sorry I didn't clarify. The furniture is mostly in the front of the bus at the moment. I've got the rear torn down to the frame. I finished the floor, jumpseat and 1/2 of 1/2 of the roof insulation, and I pulled the interior rear fiberglass cap...where some coaches had a rear window. So taking the cover off the blowers/tank was nothing more than lifting it out the window. I'm glad I did, but trust me, cautious would be understated, for exactly the reason you mentioned
When I complete that level, I'll put it all back. New insulation...new rivets...additional waterproof fiberglass...lights, etc. Clifford's idea is a good one, and my copper in-station water line is still in place, just has nowhere to terminate. Might have to take that advice...as usual. Also thinking of expanding the lights up the cap.