Underbus cabling

[Zephod]

The hillbillies that put in the reversing horn wiring did it by just looping the wires loosely around the chassis. Needless to say, it had been ripped off by something it had caught in and a section was missing. They'd also badly installed an aftermarket speedometer sensor on the drive shaft.

I'm going to dump the aftermarket speedometer sensor. Until I can get a sensor for the allinson transmission (it just plugs in, I gather), I'll go with a GPS speedometer.

The reversing horn is going to be wired to a switch on my switch console. In order to do that I've put the wire into some wire loom. While I was at it, I also added a video cable and two power cables. I'm thinking I might add a camera mounted under the back bumper so I get a direct view of what's behind in addition to the camera I have pointing down from the roof that tells me what I'm about to mow down when I reverse.

The spare power cable might go to the ventilation battery (which is solar charged) to power my door lock (which currently runs off nimh rechargeable AA batteries.

The cable isn't heavy but the only cable clamps I've found so far are nylon. I'm not sure how robust those will be. My nightmare would be the cable coming down, snagging on something and damaging the hydraulic brake lines. I'll try to route away from the brake lines but by the back wheels, there's no space to go on the outside of the main chassis members so it'll have to go inside just there. Are these nylon things any good or should I hunt harder for stainless steel?


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[bigred]

Heat and uv rays are the biggest enemy's of pvc ,,therefore .stay away from the hot exhaust and try to find some black ones to deter the uv rays!!

[Zephod]

Heat and uv rays are the biggest enemy's of pvc ,,therefore .stay away from the hot exhaust and try to find some black ones to deter the uv rays!!

As they're under the bus, UV shouldn't be an issue. They're Harbor Freight black cable clamps.

I just spent a very dirty few hours fastening cables in Harbor Freight cable loom under the bus from front to rear. Still plenty left to do. Working around the differential was definitely a bitch, particularly after it went dark. My brake hoses look good though!

Still plenty cable clamping left to do and I need more loom!


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[B_K]

By cable clamps from Harbor Freight I'm guessing you mean "Zip ties" or Cable ties"

If it were me and I were as concerned as you sound I'd by some good quality "ties" from any source but Harbor Freight.
Don't get me wrong I have bought many things at harbor Freight and even cable ties.
But that is how I know that their cable ties are the cheapest quality I have ever seen.
They get hard and brittle and it doesn't take much to snap them.

If you have trouble sourcing good ones right away just double or triple tie at each location that way if one breaks their will be another to back it up.
  BK 

[Zephod]

I'm meaning a cable tie not a zip tie but Harbor Freight calls it a cable clamp...
http://t.harborfreight.com/40-piece-black-nylon-cable-clamp-set-67541.html

I'd prefer stainless steel but the Harbor Freight version is the only one I can find. I'm putting one clamp per rib.


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[Jim Eh.]

If the wiring is in loom then I would use P clamps that are insulated aluminum.Something along these lines https://www.google.ca/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjVlfSnicPSAhXlxYMKHbPsBpUQjRwIBw&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.aliexpress.com%2Fcp%2Fp-clamp-online-shopping.html&psig=AFQjCNFkP1v4Zwov1r1p2azSa6_JM_gi-g&ust=1488930721069815
Keep in mind, some of the convoluted loom is also hard on wiring insulation.

[Zephod]

The loom is also Harbor Freight  http://t.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-x-14-ft-protective-wire-wrap-66985.html?utm_referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F
I've used 2 lengths but need more.


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[Zephod]

I've put the wires outside the main chassis members in order to keep them clear of the brake lines. Losing hydraulic braking would not be fun!


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[Astro]

During my re-conversion, all the aluminum insulated clamps were corroded through with almost no metal left. I changed them them all to insulated stainless and fastened them with stainless screws. I suggest you evaluate your base metal and choose your materials carefully to prevent galvanic corrosion. I know for a fact that MCI still had some learning to do in 1971.