Insulation

[DoubleEagle]

Walter, this is OT, but you should post at least one more time. I looked at your stats today

Yes, I know, the great number of the Beast of Revelation in Chapter 13, but 13 is my lucky number - 13 letters in my first and last name, and I came back from Vietnam on Friday the 13th, twice!  As far as 666 goes, that was the message that was intended to remind you (once again) that you have a lot of combustible area inside the bus, and precious few exit's. So, unless you want to hang with 666, please get those windows & exit's improved above all else.

[Scott & Heather]

Lol. Message received loud and clear


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[peterbylt]

I am now thinking that I should do this in a couple of different stages.

Stage one, I would like to Spray Foam insulate the voids under the floor before I put down the plywood.

Part of this is over the Engine/Transmission area, Although there is a metal barrier, I am concerned about the combustion properties of Spray foam, a few of the companies offer a closed cell product with a fire retardant rating of ASTM E-84 Class 1, this product has a lower R value and a higher price, but I think for the areas in the floor it would be worth it, I measured out the floor voids and came up with 80 square feet, so a DIY kit for 200 board feet should cover it.

One of the proposed products.

http://tigerfoam.com/sprayfoaminsulation/order-products/spray-foam-insulation-kits/tf-200fr-tiger-foam-fast-rise-200-board-ft-kit/

Peter

[sledhead]

how they look at 200 board foot is 1" x 12" x 200 ' but this is in a perfect world  and the 1 we live in is not . it would be a nice start to see how far you can get out of the system

dave   

[Scott & Heather]

I had our foamer foam the metal floor voids first too. He filled in the spaces over the wheel wells also. Then I laid floor, then studs, then he foamed the floor sandwich and foamed the ceiling and walls and front door (don't forget the front door


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[jjrbus]

Roofing company's in Florida used to be the best option for spray foam.  Oil or tape the surfaces of the ribs and other areas you do not want foam on. A good sprayer will leave little that needs to be cut off.  Hand saw and 60 grit on a disc sander should do it quickly. 

[TomC]

Professional foamers-to grind after foaming, make their own circular grinder. Picture a 10" aluminum disc with many short bolts screwed into the plate with lock nuts. Looks nasty, works well.
You do NOT want to use any kind of sander. It just makes really fine dust that gets everywhere and takes a long time to settle. The above grinding tool and saw work best. NO electric wire cut off. Although the foam now is no where near as toxic (at least in California) it is still a stinky job that you should be completely covered up.
American Foam did both my bus and truck. He is completely covered up with his cuffs taped shut. He wears a helmet with several lenses taped on that he can rip off to clean and his helmet has a hose coming out the back that is attached to an old Kirby vacuum cleaner outside the bus that pushes clean air into the helmet. Highly recommend you have foaming done professionally. Good Luck, TomC