Insulation

[peterbylt]

I have reached the point in the build on our MCI 96A3 where we need to do the Insulation.

From everything I have read and seen, it looks like the best way to go is Closed Cell Spray Foam insulation.

The Bus is located in the Tampa Bay area of Florida, does anyone have any recommendations for a company to use to have this professionally done in the Tampa Bay or Central Florida area?

If needed I could easily bring the bus to them to have it done or there is certainly room where the bus lives.

I have contacted a local company that does refrigerated Trailers and they were not even remotely interested in doing it, when I pushed them a little I was quoted a ridiculous price.

If I do end up doing it myself are there any recommendations for which kit to use and what size kit would cover the inside of a 96A3?



Peter

[Tom Y]

Peter have you replaced the floor yet? Hard to work with out it.  Are you removing the lower aluminum sheets? I removed and insulated mine and replaced. I went with sheet foam but spray was my first choice.   

[TomC]

When I was at your point, I screwed in 1x2 fir strips horizontally on 24" centers. This did two things-one gives a sub base to screw the wall covering to and two-makes for a thicker wall with the spray foam covering all exterior metal to make 2.25" of spray foam. Where I attached the overhead cabinets or where I want to anchor kitchen counter tops, I increased the 1x2 fir strips to 1x3 ash strips for extra strength. With the ceiling I used 1/8" plywood to easily bend with the curve of the roof with 1.5" oak strips covering the seams.
I highly recommend spray foam, and even more highly recommend you have a professional do this EXTREMELY nasty, dirty, smelly job. Well worth the money. Good Luck, TomC

[scanzel]

Have it done as it is very messing shaving off the high spots and you will need a respirator for the fumes it gives off. Foam It Green is where I bought some small kits but the larger kits can run several hundred dollars. It takes some practice to estimate how much it will rise as it cures, so too much and you will be shaving off a lot of excess waste and money.

[Scott & Heather]

Peter, I'll repeat a question from an above post, "are you removing the lower interior panels that are riveted on?" Please do indeed do this and have them spray foam there too. Trust me on this. As for the floor, don't worry about laying the floor yet. I just laid some 4x8 sheets of plywood down and the foamer walked on those. Don't rush to lay your floor if you're not ready. But do know that the foam gets everywhere. And I mean everywhere. So if you don't want overspray in your luggage bays, don't leave them open. And you are much better off having a pro do this. I'm a big do it yourselfer but this is a major nasty job and you'll waste time and foam trying to do it yourself.



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[Oonrahnjay]

... this is a major nasty job and you'll waste time and foam trying to do it yourself.

     Good photo, Scott, that explains a lot.  Did you do the spray foam on/around the floor rails and then put your final floor down on top of the underfloor structure and the insulation?

[Scott & Heather]

No, I laid down 3/4" tongue and groove Advantech sheets onto the metal (actually I laid some thick sill seal foam on all the metal to provide a bit of thermal break and prevent floor squeakage), then on top of the Advantech sheets I laid premium 2x4's flat (you can see them in the photo) and then had the former fill flush to the tops of the 2x4's. Then I laid my final Advantech 3/4" tongue and groove sub floor over that.


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[peterbylt]

Peter, I'll repeat a question from an above post, "are you removing the lower interior panels that are riveted on?" Please do indeed do this and have them spray foam there too. Trust me on this. As for the floor, don't worry about laying the floor yet. I just laid some 4x8 sheets of plywood down and the foamer walked on those. Don't rush to lay your floor if you're not ready. But do know that the foam gets everywhere. And I mean everywhere. So if you don't want overspray in your luggage bays, don't leave them open. And you are much better off having a pro do this. I'm a big do it yourselfer but this is a major nasty job and you'll waste time and foam trying to do it yourself.

I have not yet removed the lower interior panels that are riveted on, but I plan to.

I have heard that those panels are structural in nature, so I would like to keep them off for as little time as possible.

I would also like to foam in most of the voids under the floor.

I have inquired without success into most of the local insulation company's, I guess they just don't see any profit in it, or they see it as a liability.

As much as I would like to have it professionally done, my only option might be DIY.

Peter

[sledhead]

the diy kits ( the 2 part 1's ) work good but be ready as the dry time is FAST or buy a lot of tips . my son has used then 2 times and you have to learn to have everything ready and as you go give the gun a light shot well you are moving to the next spot so it does not harden in the tip . they set fast so you can see how much it swells , so it is better to do 2 coats then 1 if you can , as not to put it on to thick and have to grind it off . it is not like the spray can stuff
the problem is it may cost the same $ in the end as a pro doing it ? only difference is you can go at your own pace
yes get a mask
I had my MCI done by a pro in 2005 at a cost of $ 1000.

dave  

[Oonrahnjay]

No, I laid down 3/4" tongue and groove Advantech sheets onto the metal (actually I laid some thick sill seal foam on all the metal to provide a bit of thermal break and prevent floor squeakage), then on top of the Advantech sheets I laid premium 2x4's flat (you can see them in the photo) and then had the former fill flush to the tops of the 2x4's. Then I laid my final Advantech 3/4" tongue and groove sub floor over that. ... 

    Thanks!  That makes it really clear -- from the first photo, it looked like the sides of the 2 x 4s were the metal structure under the floor.  What a great floor combo that appears to be - no wonder you're warm in 0 degrees over Christmas and New Years.

[DoubleEagle]

    Thanks!  That makes it really clear -- from the first photo, it looked like the sides of the 2 x 4s were the metal structure under the floor.  What a great floor combo that appears to be - no wonder you're warm in 0 degrees over Christmas and New Years.

Of course, it might cause problems down the road if access is needed to anything below the floor. 

[B_K]

Peter it was good meeting you at Arcadia @ John Vedder's Eagle.
Don't give up because one company doesn't want to do it.
Keep calling around. You'll find someone. .

If not go the bypass route and contact a trailer repair shop and ask them what they can get it done for you.

Also there are companies that spray new houses while being built.

So there are options, keep pushing you'll find someone.
  BK 

[Melbo]

The spray foam guy that did mine did spray foam roofs and he did mine on a weekend.  Just a thought of another place to check.  He didn't grind it down he just sprayed it and I had to do that part and it is messy too.

Melbo

[Scott & Heather]

DoubleEagle, nothing to access on the top side of the floor. Nothing at all. All access to the air lines and wiring is via the luggage bay roof panels.

Peter, removing those panels are not going affect your coach. I had mine off for months. So don't lose sleep over that. That metal is thinner than you think and it's aluminum. If you can't find a foamer and end up doing it yourself, just wear a good quality Tyvek suit and goggles and mask. I can't tell you how nasty this stuff is when it's wet and sticky. Grinding it down to level with the framing is major work....you'll hate every minute of it but someday you'll be proud do post photos...you're awesome for even considering doing this yourself. Hats off to you



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[scanzel]

I have used the part kits in my conversions. As said it is messy. Prep the whole area, cover anything you don't want to get the stuff on like the dash area, windows etc. Suit up, good respirator as it smells and can affect your breathing, goggles and hat or hood. Once you start spraying put down a light layer because it will expand and it sets up very fast and gets hot as it cures. If using the large kits keep spraying don't stop for too long as the tip will start to set up and harden. If you have a few high spots like I did I just used a hack saw blade to cut them off , I tried not to grind too much as it is really messy. Like I said above cover everything you don't want the stuff on and to make for easy clean up. Good Luck.