Oil leaking after oil change on 6v92t

[N31569]

I changed my oil amongst other things while I had my bus in the shop this week. I filled the filter and then the crankcase with 6.5 gallons of 40w cf2 diesel oil. I ran the engine for 5 minutes, let it set overnight. I checked it again this morning the level on the dipstick was perfect and ran it to air up the bus for some additional work we needed to do. When we were under the backend putting on some new roll bar links we found 2 9-12 inch puddles of oil that looks like it blew out of these 2 small tubes coming down on each side of the engine next to the bell housing. Is this normal or should I be looking for another issue?

Jason

[Iceni John]

Do you mean the airbox drains (sometimes called "slobber tubes")?

John

[N31569]

maybe, I didn't follow the tubes up. There is 1 small tube, approximately 5/8 od coming down on each side of the oil pan near the transmission.

Jason

[luvrbus]

Those are air box drains did you idle the engine for a long period ?

[lostagain]

Yea, those are the air box drains. They drip oil laden moisture out of the air boxes surrounding the cylinders. This is normal. You probably have check valves on them that close at higher pressure, so they only drain at idle. They close at higher rpm. They drip more if idling lots. Idling is to be avoided when possible.

JC

Clifford beat me to this. You need the DD service manual for your engine.

[N31569]

Where is the best place to get that manual?

Thanks,
Jason

[lostagain]

Look on ebay. Some vendors have the manual on CD. Not as good as the paper book, but workable, and a lot cheaper. It is called: Detroit Diesel Series V 92 service manual.

JC

[B_K]

I'm with JC on liking the hands on printed manual.

But more and more it's getting hard to find them these days.

So I have learned to print the "section" on what I am working on and take it to the shop w/me. It sure is nice not to be leaving greasy paw prints in expensive paper manuals!
  BK 

[Iceni John]

Here's another less expensive (OK, free) option for the 6V92 service manual:  http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.com/downloads/DETROIT%2092%20SERIES%20ENGINE%20SERVICE%20MANUAL/   I plan on printing it all and putting it inside plastic sleeves just like all the other info I've accumulated so far, then I'll have my own manual.   There's a wealth of other useful info on the Wanderlodge downloads site, plenty of which is applicable to buses like ours.

John

[Iceni John]

And here's Detroit's suggestion for an airbox drain canister kit:  http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.com/downloads/Detroit_Diesel_Tips_Modifications/DETROIT%20DIESEL%20AIR%20BOX%20DRAIN%20KIT.pdf   I've done something broadly similar but cheaper  -  a few feet of 3/8" OD plastic air line from each airbox drain valve to a gallon plastic jug hidden inside the rear bumper, with short lengths of clear vinyl tubing going through the jug's cap so I can easily see exactly how much slobber is flowing at idle.   It cost me less than $5, and it works just fine.

John

[Geoff]

I changed my oil amongst other things while I had my bus in the shop this week. I filled the filter and then the crankcase with 6.5 gallons of 40w cf2 diesel oil. I ran the engine for 5 minutes, let it set overnight. I checked it again this morning the level on the dipstick was perfect and ran it to air up the bus for some additional work we needed to do. When we were under the backend putting on some new roll bar links we found 2 9-12 inch puddles of oil that looks like it blew out of these 2 small tubes coming down on each side of the engine next to the bell housing. Is this normal or should I be looking for another issue?

Jason

Oil out the air box drains is not normal.  While there are oil catch systems available, they are only a stop-gap solution to the fact you have an engine problem.  You probably have worn out oil control rings since it is coming out both sides.  An in-frame or out of frame rebuild is in your future as the oil loss is only going to get worse.

--Geoff

[bigred]

Oil out the air box drains is not normal.  While there are oil catch systems available, they are only a stop-gap solution to the fact you have an engine problem.  You probably have worn out oil control rings since it is coming out both sides.  An in-frame or out of frame rebuild is in your future as the oil loss is only going to get worse.

--GeoffCome on Geoff !! Don't scare this guy to death LOL. After all if these things were not meant to drip, why would Detroit have went to the trouble to have installed these drains to start with! Had an acquaintance that Owned a Wonder lodge .He kind of thought the way you do ,so he had an in frame done to about the tune of 20 grand and guess what ! It leaks worse now than it did before !! 

[TomC]

I don't get much out of my "slobber" tubes. And my 8V-71 has high compression pistons with turbocharger. If you're getting that much oil out of the tubes, then, yes you're getting ready for an overhaul. But-don't do a rebuild-which is just blindly replacing all components with new. Rebuilding will be the only way a shop will guarantee the rebuild. Overhaul is just replacing what is worn out-in this case you might be able to get by with just a ring replacement, bearings, and check the heads for cracks, with valve job.
When I was driving truck, I had my 8V-92TA rebuilt at 500,000mi. At that time, the cylinders still had cross hone marks and they said I could get by with just a ring replacement. But-Detroit had come out with newer piston and cylinder design that reduced oil consumption, so I had the newer kits installed. As a result, my oil consumption went from 1,200 miles per gallon to 2,200.
Now is the time to get the engine back up to good running. Good Luck, TomC

[Scott & Heather]

I would drive it and warm it up. Drive it hard for an hour. Then come back, and let it idle at high idle and see if it drips out the drains. I won't call them slobber tubes cause I value my life.


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[eagle19952]

oil is cheap