torque converter wrench? Any good?

Danny Holder · December 09, 2016, 12:31:32 PM

Does anybody have any experience with the torque converter wrench that is said to get off lugs?
Thanks

Nel · December 09, 2016, 01:23:13 PM

Yes got one off Amazon last year think its 60:1 or something along those lines , works great , the only thing is it doesn't seat properly on the lugs in the rear duallies so you need to get a short adaptor between the socket and tool

brmax · December 09, 2016, 07:49:31 PM

I think Dave5c picked up a nice one several years ago. Maybe a search as it wasn't to awful long ago we had some chat about them and some had a good review.

Floyd

Use the (Torque multiplier) in search

Danny Holder · December 09, 2016, 08:00:10 PM

Thanks guys for the information. I just order one.

Dave5Cs · December 10, 2016, 04:09:58 PM

This was the Torque Mutiplyer I got and works great.
Dave5Cs

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FVXFO6K?psc=1

DoubleEagle · December 10, 2016, 04:45:07 PM

There are a lot of sources for these geared wrenches, most are made in China, but some have better quality than others. Check for reviews carefully, some US companies specify modifications to the design to make them more dependable.

dtcerrato · December 10, 2016, 06:10:50 PM

I love my 3/4" drive Chicago Pneumatic Air Impact Wrench. Works great anywhere much impact of large hardware is needed. I have been known to use it in conjunction with a 4 to 1 multiplier when the hardware gets real big (example - transmission output shaft housing on manuals to replace output seal - 14 to 18 hundred foot pounds).

kyle4501 · December 11, 2016, 06:30:19 AM

I have one similar to Dave5Cs - with a 78:1 ratio. For overly tight nuts or rusty threads, it is THE tool for the job.
Once I break the nut loose, I use a cordless drill to run them off with the torque multiplier if the threads are rusty.

For properly torqued nuts, I find it easier to use a long bar and support the head of the wrench.

86102A3 · December 11, 2016, 06:51:20 AM

Danny, I purchased one from northern tool. I will remind you that the driver side lugs are most likely right hand thread. I looked all through the manual and it failed to mention that the driver side was opposite thread. So I spent time tightening lug nuts instead of loosening them. Good news is that I had brand studs and lug nuts to replace everything after it finally dawned on me to try to loosen them clockwise.

Jeff LoGiudice
Tampa, Fl.
1986 TMC 102A3
1999 Reliabilt 6V92TA
Allison HT740

dtcerrato · December 11, 2016, 07:16:53 AM

I use never seeze on all my hardware including the lug nuts, it remedies rust & hard breaks to loosen.

Dave5Cs · December 11, 2016, 03:32:25 PM

Should be a L & F on the end of the lugs depending on which side you are taking off. I have seen installer put the wrong ones back one the wrong side and not say a word until I called them on it. Now I only do my own.

kyle4501 · December 11, 2016, 04:31:46 PM

The torque spec for the wheel nuts is almost always for dry threads - if you use any lubricant, you must reduce the applied torque or you will over tension the stud and deform the nut seat in the wheel.

Alcoa says that the nut & hole mating faces must be clean & DRY with no lubricant.

The reason the torque spec is for dry threads is consistent clamping force. When lubricants are used, the clamping force for a given torque is different for different oils.

Generally, lubricated thread torque is 75% of the dry torque spec - However, your mileage may vary . . . .

As a side note of caution,
I have experienced some wheels that were fully torqued, but had radial rust stains which indicate loose nuts - I marked the nut, counted turns to remove it - removed the wheel - put the nut back on the same number of turns & torqued it -- it was at the same position - the nut hole in the rim had been deformed due to excess torque being applied.

So please do be careful to do it properly.

DoubleEagle · December 11, 2016, 06:07:09 PM

Yes, torque the nuts without lubricant. I once applied never-seize to some trailer hitch bolts and used a 1200 ft. lb. impact to tighten, it kept going until the class 8 bolt stretched and snapped. Definitely look for L's and R's on the ends of the wheel studs, it's easy to forget that little detail if you don't take the wheels off often.

dtcerrato · December 11, 2016, 08:30:15 PM

Been using never seeze and air impact on steel wheels for almost 40 years - same bus, same wheels, no problems. Know the rules & use common sense, it keeps going only if you keep your hand on the trigger...

kyle4501 · December 11, 2016, 08:49:32 PM

Quote from: dtcerrato on December 11, 2016, 08:30:15 PM
Been using never seeze and air impact on steel wheels for almost 40 years - same bus, same wheels, no problems. Know the rules & use common sense, it keeps going only if you keep your hand on the trigger...

Glad that is working for you, but newbies may not have tools & experience like you - that is why I wanted to add a little more information -- details can make a difference.

I don't think using lubrication is wrong. I do KNOW that used improperly, it can lead to a host of problems.

I also know that 'paid professionals' can get it very wrong, so I try to educate myself & share what I've learned when I can.

Happy & safe bussin, y'all