Like Scott - Broken down at rest stop, Water Pump Seal

[luvrbus]

You make a bead and let dry for a few hours it does ok, on Jeeps when the plastic valve covers breaks,when you buy a new valve cover they come with a large bead of RTV lol no telling how long it has cured.I don't have any luck with RTV unless I do make a bead,gaskets are my thing   

[Beachfinn]

I think the tech left the old torn gasket in and tried to patch it with rtv. Doesn't make much sense to me. I would tend to agree that properly cured silicone should do the job, it's not exactly high demand application, no pressure and not that high temps..

[brmax]

Sure Dan, by saying stuff in my prior post: I mean things needing to be worked on.
This type assembly is not a loose fit in my opinion and giving way to a gasket cushion, more a filling the precision nicks and machine marks.
So with this I consider the fill in spec thin, and that's what each that I took apart looked like.
I recommend the dry curing time on the tube before oil emersion, and it being silicone requires it.
On Engine pans I like pro paper and cork gaskets, also the newer pre made silicone rubber. The last question has some careful answers I can shed a bit of light on, I will say many vehicles "factory assembled" in the eighties and 9ts had idiots with caulk tubes making gaskets, Don't really want to word that  to be rude but when many people that try to do good and work in life have that crap happen it is uncool. I know this because I took apart many and pulled gray silicone from the oil pumps, this was reason for blinking oil lights and low pressures. That was not fun or funny the strings of silicone.
I like to think minimalist (is that a real word) on using a bead of RTV and surface drier than a popcorn f.
I most likely was saved by my Senior Techs teachings from using to much, and the were sharp as a tac every day. I recall the first lesson Flatten that bead, This was in this particular axle type assembly I think they don't say that on the tube but its what I do.

rtv has its places, so closing i say just don't short cut the job. and in Hopes that all works out. Roll On!
Floyd

[chessie4905]

You need to clean surface thoroughly and then wipe with lacquer thinner to remove any hint of oil or grease. I always liked ultra black red grey or blue. The straight blue semi transparent stuff sucks, but has it place, but somewhere else. Many locations require quality conventional gaskets. In those locations, I mainly prefer Permatex hightack for gasket sealant.

[eagle19952]

pounding out gaskets is an apprentice right of passage...

rtv...pfffft.

wait till you dig that crap out of a differential oil pump someday...along with a 1/4 bushel of hypoid gears...

or an oil return passage cast in.......

nope, not in my tool tray niether.

not in my shop either.

[luvrbus]

I think used in the right place and right way it's ok,I remember DD said you could use on the engines in the 80's manuals,that didn't last long they set you a page to replace that page in the manual   

[Lin]

When replacing gaskets, I get quite paranoid about possibly having to deal with a leak later.  I definitely prefer a real, new gasket.  But just to keep the RTV proponents happy too, I like to smear a thin coat of the stuff on as a fail safe gasket sealant.  Permatex will alleviate my worrys too.

[Scott & Heather]

Sami, is this your debut run with the coach? If so this doesn't surprise me. We are still working out weird kinks while we attempt to baseline our coach.


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[4104SoFl]

For me, I once was a wrench turner, I like to use the gasket with a light (smear) coat on each side of the gasket and let cure.
Now I know this is against all things. I was taught by an old mech and never had anything go wrong. I have heard over the years about this is the wrong way, but it work for me, for years. My two cents worth. (I'm tring to get my third star)

[Beachfinn]

Scott, no, we are at about 5k miles traveling with the coach.
I believe I'll try the silicone on both clean surfaces finger level the bead and let air dry before bolting.

[brmax]

Everybody has their option to make their decisions, In this outer wheel axle to hub assembly the discussion and recommendations posted vary.
What I have did my whole career was to use the RTV only on clean dry surfaces and install axle immediately and torque to specifications of bolts or stud nut types used. When this above is done, a proper cure is best for the RTV, with temperature this cure is always dependent and should be considered, these are the methods I have always used successfully.

Paper gaskets of the ones I hammered out either with one ball peen or two were thin in this assembly and maybe .030" again maybe that thick, they were a lot of times put on dry, some used a dab of grease to station them, some used different types of adhesive sealers mainly to station the gasket, these could include Indian head, Permatex no.2, and Permatex aviation type which I think is now different for 10 years and a combo of both in my opinion.

The newer best factory gaskets area metallic and generally have a spray layer of something thin but flexible to seal these super fine machine marks or nicks and obviously proven. I have removed clear plastic factory gaskets also and thin or thinner as I recall than the metallic above.

If in doubt I would call and receive the factory replacement parts, as it is proven and something I do promote.

I would use one of these above and kept separated, as my recommendation.
happy travels
Floyd

[Beachfinn]

Thanks Floyd 🤓
While I'm at it, the shorter  axle goes on passenger side? The wrecker did not mark them and that's how the S&S guys put them in,,,, 
Sami

[eagle19952]

Scott, no, we are at about 5k miles traveling with the coach.
I believe I'll try the silicone on both clean surfaces finger level the bead and let air dry before bolting.

LOCTITE makes a gasket replacer, it is what is called an anaerobic sealant. it is intended to only function "in the absence of air" hence anaerobic.
it, like all sealant sans gasket, are dependent on surface condition and prep.
NOTE: The main failure of silicone is "squeeze"out.....it matters not how "dry" it gets, if any (even a pin head) exposed to the contained oil, will deteriorate the total of the goop...or crap as I call it.
a 6 oz ball-peen will last a life time.

If anaerobics cure in the absence of air, how come they don't cure in the sealed bottle?
A: The anaerobic bottles are specially formulated oxygen-permeable polyethylene bottles that allow air to pass through the wall of the bottle to maintain stability of the liquid product inside the container. The bottle is also not filled to the top for stability purposes. A 50 ml bottle does indeed contain 50 ml's of product in a larger bottle.

[Lee Bradley]

LOCTITE makes a gasket replacer, it is what is called an anaerobic sealant. it is intended to only function "in the absence of air" hence anaerobic.
it, like all sealant sans gasket, are dependent on surface condition and prep.
NOTE: The main failure of silicone is "squeeze"out.....it matters not how "dry" it gets, if any (even a pin head) exposed to the contained oil, will deteriorate the total of the goop...or crap as I call it.
a 6 oz ball-peen will last a life time.

If anaerobics cure in the absence of air, how come they don't cure in the sealed bottle?
A: The anaerobic bottles are specially formulated oxygen-permeable polyethylene bottles that allow air to pass through the wall of the bottle to maintain stability of the liquid product inside the container. The bottle is also not filled to the top for stability purposes. A 50 ml bottle does indeed contain 50 ml's of product in a larger bottle.

and Loctite makes the gasket replacer in one that sets solid and one that sets semi-solid to allow some movement.
http://www.loctite.com.au/3320_AUE_HTML.htm?nodeid=8802626633729

[Dreadnought]

You guys are teaching me so much. I'm so glad I got my water pump rebuilt even though it wasn't seeping. Perhaps I should get a spare fan belt. I wonder what size an 8V71 in an MC5 uses...