SOLVED! Broke down New Mexico

[brmax]

Can confirm with your book and Ken, I'm showing both red stop engine light #509probably purple,  and yellow check engine light #419probably purple/white both share or use #439 probably pink going to ECM  connector

Floyd

[Scott & Heather]

I found pin for 19 at the ECM connector and I spliced my TestFlight into it still no check engine flash codes


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[Scott & Heather]

419 and test light. Autocorrect mistake sorry


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[Brassman]

I don't know about your machine in particular, but can you manually bump the rack and crank the engine? Wouldn't that tell you what side the problem is on?

[Scott & Heather]

Ken and Cliff and I have spent time trying to diagnose as well as several other members here...the basic conclusion right now is that the coach is getting fuel (fully primed, and pumping fuel out of return line) so we don't think as of yet it's a fuel pump/line clog. I can suck fuel out of the tank with my inline airtex priming pump without issue. So for now that's out of the running. Still could be:

1. ECM failure
2. Sensor failure/fault that caused shutdown and no restart
    a. Crankshaft/Camshaft position sensors
    b. Oil pressure/level sensor
    c. Coolant temp/level sensor
3. Short/Low votage/blown fuse to ECM

Can't think of anything else. I really need to find a definitive way to eliminate a coolant/oil sensor fault/failure from the equation. I wish I knew truly how to bypass those. I can't be sure my override switch is working. It never lights up and half the stuff on my dash doesn't work anyway. So I need to bypass those sensors to eliminate them as a possibility.

[brmax]

That 439 wire is the 12v power wire for the 419cel light, and the 509stop engine light with the ecm completing the circuit however it needs to.
either blinking or solid depending on situation.
To me if this circuit is good this test light setup should come on as normal key on operations would, and then if at diagnostic connector in cab. Using the access method for code retrieval this setup should blink the codes.
By the way were you able to connect the earlier broken connector.

good evening
Floyd

[Brassman]

You got to break it down in chunks to troubleshoot. You can't chase it down rabbit holes. You have fuel to the injectors and it doesn't fire. What breaks the safety circuits. Of course the ECU can be at fault, but I have seen stacks of those things changed out and that wasn't the problem. I assume you have the correct voltage to the unit from your pictures. I worked on ships, so someone else paid for labor, and for parts.

[Scott & Heather]

Thanks floyd I haven't determined where the 952 wire that's bare ended goes yet. But I have started to be more methodical like brassman said. I'm going through the "turns over but doesn't start" diagnostics in the ddec ii troubleshooting manual. Without any code reader and zero check engine light, I'm in the dark. I really need to know how to bypass the shutdown sensors like coolant level and temp/oil level/pressure. This would help me to eliminate these sensors as a cause of my shutdown no start. Then it's crankshaft/camshaft position sensor and I've already determined from others' experiences on the forum that a throttle position sensor fault wouldn't shut me down and cause a no start. So that's out of the running. I'm going to purchase fresh fuses tomorrow and swap out every one that I can just because I have nothing better to do while I wait for ken Arnold's Detroit reader and spare ECM which won't arrive here until Tuesday. I've already canceled my events scheduled in Tucson this weekend. So we are just sitting tight until I resolve this. Cliff had a great suggestion that we have it towed to Stewart and Stevenson in Albuquerque but after talking to State Farm I'm skeptical they'll pay for the tow and since our little 16 mile tow to Roswell was $1300 I am not interested in paying for a 3 hour nearly 200 mile tow to Albuquerque. And then paying them $120 an hour to chase this down...I guess if it comes to that I'll revisit this option for sure...but I could fly cliff or ken here and hotel them and feed them for less than that lol.


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[Scott & Heather]

Cliff has asked me to check the crank sensor behind the pulley stamped 8v92. I can't see anything back there but of course there are wire harnesses back there so I know the sensor is there. Do I need to remove this pulley to get to that sensor?


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[brmax]

Scott as far as diagnosing this issue, your doing great, we all seriously wish it was not as expensive as it is.  Most wrench benders on this site dam well know its not whipity snap and get lucky.
The millions of dollars designing troubleshooting pages/scripts the manufactures print and teach in professional training requires a systematic approach, (this saves money) (.)  and I have no coffee yet

Anyway that 952wire goes to the terminal you had pictured, and is part of a tps (chunk), in the 5" big book ya got will be thousands of test for these parts, yes they are a pita, but again just what they teach to trained professionals.
I will have to pick up another electronic terminal removal tool I guess.
oh ya I couldn't get my fingers behind that pulley if I tried, so checking if the tone ring is secure would take great eyes and other fragile test no crow bars here.
its Friday!
Floyd

[B_K]

Scott & Heather I feel for you as I have never had the exact problem you are having right now.

However I have had some hair pulling experiences.

I don't know about the sensor behind the pulley as I never had one give me troubles nor even had one of those pulleys off.
My common sense thinking tells me the pulley would have to come off to replace it and with that thinking I'd say pull the pulley to see if there is in fact a problem there.
If it is the problem then ahah, your one step ahead in the repair end of it?  If not what have ya lost besides the 1/2 to 1 hr that it took to get the tools needed and get the pulley off and back on.  After all at this point you got 5 days with nothing else to do. (except maybe find a local church or vacant building to put on a show for the locals AKA Aliens, after which they might be kind enough to tell the gremlin they put on your bus to release his spell)

Now speaking of shows I'm sorry you had to cancel but wouldn't it have been as easy to drive on to Tuscan in the toad do the shows and return Tues to work on the bus? (jest curious and yes I realize the bus is your home and no one like to leave it sitting abandoned near all those aliens any longer than necessary!)
  BK 

[B_K]

BTW did you reconnect the loose wire and try it?
  BK 

[Scott & Heather]

Floyd, I confirmed with Ken this morning that indeed that 952 wire belonged in the "A" slot of that resistor plug. It is the ground for the TPS. That wire being pulled out can't be helping the situation any so I soldered it back in just now. Coach still won't start but at least that's out of the way. BK, haha, Roswell is actually a weirdly normal place....only weirdness is that it's rosewell. Anyway, BK I may come to removing that pulley. I still really want to see what codes this is throwing. Kills me not to have a reader on hand. The events I had scheduled in Tucson were just "pass the hat" events nothing I was contracted for pay, so I can't be sure they would have made it financially even break even for me to come...and right now I'm keeping finances tight hold until we know if this fix will be $$$

[robertglines1]

low coolant sensor. paper clip between plug wires at tank. unplug and jump. I know nothing about MCI side. You have the best working on it! Also past experience with fuel pressure switch on /close to filter= bad wire crimp end.  Yow did check light bulbs ib dash lights and make sure voltage is getting beyond ignition switch when on? Ken has already caught you up on wire codes.  Please post results. 

[luvrbus]

Scott, don't remove the pulley till you get a reader, I hope this thing don't come back with the code 25