Watch my video of my bus headlights being weird

belfert · September 04, 2016, 11:56:41 AM

Quote from: thomasinnv on September 01, 2016, 09:50:37 AM
Twin vanners? What size are they? I just have a single 100 amp. Contemplating the possibility of adding a second 100amp to supply enough amperage to run the ac from the inverter while under way. Not convinced though.

Off the original topic, but what voltage is the inverter, 12 volt or 24 volt? An MCI should have a 24 volt chassis system.

thomasinnv · September 04, 2016, 03:13:56 PM

The inverter is 12v, hence the comment about adding another vanner for increased capacity to supply the inverter while under way.

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Scott & Heather · September 04, 2016, 05:49:54 PM

My coach is wired 24volt but all of the exterior lighting is 12 volt

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Iceni John · September 04, 2016, 06:25:58 PM

Is one ballast defective? Are the HID capsules getting exactly the same running voltage? I'm also wondering if their hot restrike is the same both sides.

My car's HID headlights (Hella 90mm "Bi-Xenon") also fire at slightly different times from cold, but their hot restrike is the same - sometimes HIDs just do weird things!

John

robertglines1 · September 05, 2016, 06:31:45 AM

Did you use original light socket? did you use original wiring? where did you interpret signal from switch to come on? Where did you add power feed to 12 volt supply? Bob

Scott & Heather · September 05, 2016, 07:11:42 AM

John, it might be the HID's firing issues that are causing this. Never occurred to me until you mentioned it. Duh. It never did this when I had halogens in there. Bob, original doesn't apply. The front cap is an R&M which of course comes with the projector headlamp housings. My bus did come from the factory with all exterior lamps 12 volt so yes original wiring. Though a lot of it was updated when the caps went on. But I think I've realized with help that the HID lighting system just works different than a normal filament bulb as they have to fire up a gas discharge bulb and this process isn't always an exact science so my guess is that when starting the coach, the draw on the electrical system is enough to tell the ballast to quit from low voltage and then it doesn't refire. I can rectify this now that I know what's happening.

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thomasinnv · September 05, 2016, 07:25:25 AM

Hey Scott is the headlight switch on when you are checking these or are they on a daytime run switch?

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eagle19952 · September 05, 2016, 08:36:29 AM

I know zip...about this...but...

is there any possibility that the relay feeding the bulbs is defective ?
would it not be a better design to feed each bulb from it's own relay ?

luvrbus · September 05, 2016, 09:17:44 AM

Quote from: eagle19952 on September 05, 2016, 08:36:29 AM
I know zip...about this...but...

is there any possibility that the relay feeding the bulbs is defective ?
would it not be a better design to feed each bulb from it's own relay ?

I checked mine they are feed from 4 different cube relays under the drivers window,they don't blink when starting,the Delco 39 starter may be reason mine don't blink also the older Delco starters do take a huge bite from the batteries when starting

robertglines1 · September 05, 2016, 11:25:38 AM

I would check actual voltage being delivered to bulb. Anything under 12.6 and you are loosing performance.

Scott & Heather · September 05, 2016, 06:17:20 PM

The headlight switch doesn't do anything. Headlights are wired with ignition so they are always on. I dislike it actually. And I'm changing that as soon as I get time.

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thomasinnv · September 05, 2016, 07:19:29 PM

Mine is wired so that any time the parking brake is released the lights are on. Have you tried just turning on the headlight switch? Some daytime running lights are designed that they operate at a slightly lower voltage so the headlights are slightly dimmer in daytime operation. Have you checked the voltage at the headlight fixture? If they are reduced voltage for daytime running that may be the whole problem.

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robertglines1 · September 06, 2016, 07:51:09 AM

My test results against what they should have been. My Batt engine off 12.86V headlight on at light 10.80which = 510 lumes. At correct voltage should have been 12.8V= 1000 lumes,, Engine running-Charging 14V Mine at sockets= 11.88 v or 67% of capacity .. Chart says at 14V the out put should be 1356 lumes. Mine were only putting out 900 lumes in the beginning. NOW put out full capacity. I did not replace switch just cleaned up power supply and used switch as signal rather than a power source. The wire is undersized for the power needs on that vintage prevost. I did increase that from power supply relay to sockets. I hope this helps thought process. I did away with day time running module/that is manual now.

eagle19952 · September 06, 2016, 03:38:36 PM

Quote from: thomasinnv on September 05, 2016, 07:19:29 PM
Mine is wired so that any time the parking brake is released the lights are on.
Some daytime running lights are designed that they operate at a slightly lower voltage so the headlights are slightly dimmer in daytime operation.

Cheezus Crackers.....Seriously ??....who are the brilliant electrical engineers mandated by to design crap like this ?
Who ever can't flip switches need not possess a CDL.

Scott & Heather · September 06, 2016, 07:02:15 PM

Agreed ^
I wonder if mine are set up low voltage as daytime runners. Headlight switch used to turn the high beams on but mysteriously quit. I have issues to chase lol. Bob I'll be checking the voltage to them asap

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