Just had coach serviced. Should this concern me? - Page 3
 

Just had coach serviced. Should this concern me?

Started by Scott & Heather, July 04, 2016, 07:45:34 PM

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eagle19952

Quote from: luvrbus on July 08, 2016, 09:15:21 AM


I am not talking about that can of packing,the gear oil will clean the bearing of the grease I have checked that before and nothing bad shows up in sample either.All the buses I been around with greased rear hubs have a special seal to keep the gear lube from washing the grease out  YMMD 

like i said..depends.
many will read this and ... just grease it .... it isn't that simple.
Donald PH
1978 Model 05 Eagle w/Torsilastic Suspension,8V71 N, DD, Allison on 24.5's 12kw Kubota.

luvrbus

If you look close at a axle they are design to move gear lube to the axle flange from the differential when rotating that is why some use the seal just as John described.   
Life is short drink the good wine first

Scott & Heather

Ok, I'll see if they will bring a Mobile guy to look at it, but I'm apt to deal with this myself. Can someone outline the removal process of the axle? Remove the nuts and cones and slide her out? Do I jack the coach from the jack point before doing this? And explain again how I fill with oil before putting back together?


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Scott & Heather
1984 MCI 9 6V92-turbo with 9 inch roof raise (SOLD)
1992 MCI 102C3 8v92-turbo with 8 inch roof raise CURRENT HOME
Click link for 900 photos of our 1st bus conversion:
https://goo.gl/photos/GVtNRniG2RBXPuXW9

Scott & Heather

Coach was driven 5.7 miles after repair was made and then parked


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Scott & Heather
1984 MCI 9 6V92-turbo with 9 inch roof raise (SOLD)
1992 MCI 102C3 8v92-turbo with 8 inch roof raise CURRENT HOME
Click link for 900 photos of our 1st bus conversion:
https://goo.gl/photos/GVtNRniG2RBXPuXW9

gumpy

No need to jack it up unless you need to rotate to get the fill plug to the top. The axle is just bolted to the hub with those studs. All you really need to do is pull the nuts and wedges, reseat the studs that appear to be out too far, reinstall the axle, put the cones in where they go (someone said they may go only in every other stud. My 9 had them on every stud.), install and torque the nuts (progressive torque in a cross-wise pattern like installing wheels).  There should be a 1/4" plug on the end of the axle plate or on the hub for filling. Add a quart of gear oil into the plug to lube the bearings.

Oh, put a pan under the axle plate. It will probably leak a quart of oil or so when you pull the axle plate apart and make a big mess on your shiny wheel.
Craig Shepard
Located in Minnesquito

http://bus.gumpydog.com - "Some Assembly Required"

brmax

As Craig mentioned set you a pan under that hub.
I later learned to just loosen nuts flush with stud ends.
This can protect them when a tough gasket seal needs separating, and in these situations a 1' sawed off 3-4 lb sledge used gently with a 3ft swing taping on the axle end and after a few taps the axle will sit loose against the loosened nuts with all cones sweetly ready for removal.  let it bounce till the cones are free
you can put your axle back in in whatever splines they fit generally, doesn't matter there and with fill plug somewhere handy as mentioned for fill up. Some axles have a pin and or threaded hole for a regular bolt, so then the required position.

They may have used silicone for a gasket, that worked fine for me for many years but others may use something different when available. The black ultra is pretty good stuff and doesn't take much. Surface just has to be clean n dry for a bit, a roll of paper towels will be handy.

Important the finer around us don't take kindly to the smell of 90 as I have found, beware!
good luck there
Floyd
1992 MC9
6V92
Allison


gumpy

I just cut a piece of cardboard to fit up under the hub and made an oil ramp to run the oil out and into my oil drain pan which was sitting on the ground next to the tire.
Craig Shepard
Located in Minnesquito

http://bus.gumpydog.com - "Some Assembly Required"

luvrbus

Scott, with that wheel I would jack it up and check the the clearance on the hub bearing there is no telling what you may find
Life is short drink the good wine first

eagle19952

Donald PH
1978 Model 05 Eagle w/Torsilastic Suspension,8V71 N, DD, Allison on 24.5's 12kw Kubota.

chessie4905

I used to do that also. But now that cardboard is on the endangered list since we're running out of it,  I got one of these a few years ago for about 10 bucks.
GMC h8h 649#028 (4905)
Pennsylvania-central

TomC

Kicker is, this isn't a bus thing with the hub. The hubs on trucks and buses are the same (except maybe Prevost). So this is a mechanic goofup.
Tom & Donna Christman. 1985 Kenworth 40ft Super C with garage. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.

Scott & Heather

They were conscientious about filling the tag and steer hubs. I am guessing they refilled the drive axles as well. They even stated that the inner seals were leaking so they opted to replace them. I concurred because I could see the oil leaking down the tires on the duals. So I think the one side was done by one of their kid mechanics and he failed to button things up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Scott & Heather
1984 MCI 9 6V92-turbo with 9 inch roof raise (SOLD)
1992 MCI 102C3 8v92-turbo with 8 inch roof raise CURRENT HOME
Click link for 900 photos of our 1st bus conversion:
https://goo.gl/photos/GVtNRniG2RBXPuXW9

Jim Eh.

As a rule "pull a wheel - change the seal"
In your picture it appears the nuts ARE tight as the spring washers are flat. The cones are simply the wrong taper.
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
Jim Eh.
1996 MC12
6V92TA / HT741D
Winnipeg, MB.

luvrbus

I don't think he gets but 4 of the spacers on his axle ? anyone want to speculate on the purpose of the spacers I have heard different reasons and never knew for sure and never took the time to figure it out 
Life is short drink the good wine first