No Dash Heat Problem Solved

[Scott & Heather]

EDIT: I still don't have drivers heat. Gate valves are open, I pushed open the valve under the drivers seat (attached to the push pull cable)...and I've added coolant and bled air via the schrader valve on the heater core...am I missing something?


While I wait for the radiator repair shop to fix our drivers heater core, I'm taking Sean shanks advice and seeing if I can tap into the coolant lines and t off so I can have heat in other locations of the coach while driving down the road. I have the drivers floor pulled at the moment and can get to both heater core lines but my concern is I don't know the flow direction. Which one is supply and which one is return? Also how would the coolant flow through my teed lines? Will I even have flow? Or will the hot coolant just bypass where I teed in? I guess I need a little lesson in thermodynamics.


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[DoubleEagle]

Run the coolant through the heater core with the fan on, and check the temperature of both lines, the hotter one will be supply.

[buswarrior]

With the big heater core removed and capped, and the driver's heater core having much smaller lines, the water pump will be making some pressure in the hot line that you should be able to take advantage of, without further pump additions.

If you start adding a bunch of T's, all bets are off....

The pipes are a straight run from the back, sneak a peak from the engine room to see which side the hot enters the tunnel?

Also a great time to plan/review the location of a coolant boiler in the system. PO tapped mine inline to the big hot pipe in a bay.

It can act as a heat booster, engine pre-heater, and make interior heat when parked the same way as going down the road. Another layer in the heating plan? Another redundancy?

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[Scott & Heather]

Ok so if I merely have one T off the main lines and run maybe one or two toe-kick radiators off of that line I should
Be good?


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[eagle19952]

Ok so if I merely have one T off the main lines and run maybe one or two toe-kick radiators off of that line I should
Be good?


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were i you i would seek advice from a heating contractor... see here and contemplate... with feeds and returns up and down you could heat bays too. i would consider a booster pump also based on my readings of your lifestyle...Monoflo...

http://www.comfort-calc.net/monoflo_system.cfm



http://www.taco-hvac.com/uploads/FAQ_attachments/venturi_fittings.pdf

[Scott & Heather]

Interesting. This dealt exactly with my concerns. Ugh. Complicated. Thanks so much for posting his


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[eagle19952]

Interesting. This dealt exactly with my concerns. Ugh. Complicated. Thanks so much for posting his


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it is actually the most cost effective way to service two seperate stories ie basement/living space.
privided there is sufficient flow.

ps the shorter the verticals the better.
it works, but i have seen some really long installs with multiple 90's that worked.

[luvrbus]

To get the full benefit of the heat from the engine, heat exchanges need to be looped teeing off a line doesn't work good,your defroster is in a loop  

[RJ]

Scott -

IMHO, for this project you're considering, I would tap into the return lines going back to the engine.  I wouldn't tap the supply line, because I'd want as much heat as possible for the defroster first.

FWIW & HTH. . .

[eagle19952]

Scott -

IMHO, for this project you're considering, I would tap into the return lines going back to the engine.  I wouldn't tap the supply line, because I'd want as much heat as possible for the defroster first.

FWIW & HTH. . .

GOOD IDEA 

[Scott & Heather]

Yeah good thinking on that one. Still stumped on an issue here. I got my heater core back completely repaired for $80. Happy. Just plumbed it back in, added coolant, pressed the Schrader air bleed valve until air in Heater core was purged with opened gate valves. Heater core isn't getting hot. Or warm. Gate valve piping on Both sides of valve underneath floor hatch (upper gate) is hot Both sides of gate. The lower gate inside the curbside engine bay door, the pipe is only hot on the engine side not the right (coach) side. It's opened all the way. They both feel like they are working. I don't think it's broken. I opened the valve under the drivers seat in the spare tire bay (the one with the cable that goes to the drivers pull valves next to the seat). The thermostatic water valve in the luggage bay has its wiring disconnected and the air line to it pinched with a zip tie. Could this be the issue? Is there a valve missing somewhere?


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[Geoff]

Did I miss that your auxiliary heater pump is working?

[pabusnut]

Scott,

On my 4905, I took that thermostatic valve out of the loop, and put the factory booster pump back in the circuit.  BUT----I still don't have mine fixed either, and the driver heat/defrost only takes the edge off the bitter cold and damp w/o any other heat.

Steve

[DoubleEagle]

You probably have air bubbles still in the system. When you capped the old main heater core pipes you had to evacuate all liquid from the pipes in that area in order to be able to solder the caps on. You need to bleed further back down the line to get the air out. It might have been better to have used threaded caps with a bleeder valve or drain valve involved. It's not too late to redo the caps, it might be the easiest solution if there is no where else to bleed the pipes.

[gumpy]

Center valve above tranny is supply.

Right side (passenger) is return.

Your return valve may be broken or you have an air lock. I'm betting on broken stem in the return valve.

Not sure what you're referring to on the driver valve. There should be a 1/4 turn valve in the stainless below the left switch panel. It is connected in the line below the electrical panel. Maybe yours is set up a bit different than mine.