ElectricaL issue ... help please. ...

lou432 · April 09, 2016, 08:24:41 AM

Hi all, trying to trouble shoot a potintial over road issue on my trip to new England ,,,, Newly Rebuilt 24 v alternator new 24v regulator ,output on low idle 24.82 range .... kick in to high idle spiked at 32 or so and then dropped down to zero?? Any ideas?

luvrbus · April 09, 2016, 08:28:01 AM

Ground problems clean all the grounds and be sure the regulator is grounded.hopefully it didn't blow the diode pack

lou432 · April 09, 2016, 08:37:16 AM

Thanks! Cleaning grounds now.

lou432 · April 09, 2016, 08:59:07 AM

All grounds are clean when manually accelerating from the rear goes up comes back down to 24 + but when throwing into high idle it goes all the way down to nothing? High idle seems to be isolating it

DoubleEagle · April 09, 2016, 09:10:08 AM

If the new regulator and alternator are okay, what is left is the condition of the batteries. A bad cell in one battery can do strange things. Have the batteries load tested individually.

luvrbus · April 09, 2016, 09:15:45 AM

What model of bus do you own some have air activated relays and it maybe wired to disengage the alternator on fast idle it shouldn't be but stranger things happen with wiring on older buses

lou432 · April 09, 2016, 09:19:37 AM

Two brand-new 8 D 24 volt batteries just put in this morning. 1966 MCI 5A ad 71 225 amp alternator. Thanks again! All and any help is greatly appreciated

gumpy · April 09, 2016, 09:57:22 AM

Check the voltage on the battery terminal of the regulator. The original wiring in the coach may be corroded or the blower relay is cutting out for some reason.
You may need to run a wire direct from the battery positive to this terminal.

lou432 · April 09, 2016, 10:11:16 AM

Hi Craig, we've done all if that with same results. Now running a wire straight from field post on alternator to field post on regulator

luvrbus · April 09, 2016, 10:12:53 AM

Start it use a meter for reading on the field terminal speed it up if it drops the 12 volts on the field terminal then you have a bad relay

lou432 · April 09, 2016, 12:27:47 PM

Regulator was bad. Bypassing relay as well.
I'll keep you all posted.

lou432 · April 09, 2016, 06:22:50 PM

Thanks for all your help folks!! She's charging and everything check out ok except the now the Genset is only putting out 10.50 Amps or so and can't /don't have time to work it out as I'm leaving in the morning for 1st leg if trip to home/ new Hampshire .

lou432 · April 10, 2016, 05:36:57 AM

As I said in the previous post the 71 is charging all is good there .
The genset motor is working fine but not putting out enough power. Can do without the genset I anticipate but pulling it out of the repair yard late late last evening the brake lights are stuck in the on position. Any thoughts on reasons why would be greatly appreciated :-).

Brian Diehl · April 10, 2016, 06:35:51 AM

Brake lights are controlled by an air pressure switch on top of the main brake actuation valve below the floor under the driver's seat. If the lights are stuck on then it would indicate one of two things - air pressure is still being applied to the brakes or the switch is stuck. Of course, this is all predicated on the fact that someone hasn't changed the wiring. Tap on the switch and see if the lights shut off. I assume you checked to make sure the brakes were dragging (getting hot). There are two switches on the top of the brake valve. One is for the service brakes and the other actuates when the parking brakes are set.

robertglines1 · April 10, 2016, 07:49:33 AM

Brake lights: If? my memory serves me rite from my MCI days. When the parking brake is set the brake lights are on. Bob