How do you move a bus when the brakes are locked?

Sharkbait · December 06, 2015, 04:13:35 PM

Thanks for all your words of caution and advice. My parking brake is a big silver lever between the drivers seat and electrical console. I might not have had a stuck brake at all. The bus seemed to settle into some ruts which made it hard to get it moving. I dug out behind the wheels but upon reflection I might not have dug down deep enough. My air bag was coming up when I started this evolution but I might have over pressurized it because I couldn't really tell if it was coming up. The P.O. installed a system where I have 4 silver knobs below the dash each one adding or releasing air to a corner of the bus. I saw someone else post that they had the same set-up but they had a pressure gauge to tell them how much pressure they had on each set of air bags. I do not, but I definitely thing it's a worthy investment. So now I'm basking in the aftermath of my own ignorance.

I read DA-BOOK and saw where the jacking and blocking points are. The bus came with some blocks to put between the axle and suspension, this will be a project for tomorrow. I'll let you know after I assess the damage. Thanks again guys, Phil

Lin · December 06, 2015, 06:09:55 PM

My bad! It has been corrected.

jackhanow · December 06, 2015, 07:19:38 PM

Drive the side that works up on a four inch block and put blocks under the bulkhead supports. Only the axle you are working on. Then let the air out so it sets on the blocks. Jack the side up so you can get the tire off and you should have just enough room to remove the airbag and put the new one in. The weight of the bus is on the blocks so you are just jacking the axle up and down. Driving it on the block uses the airbag to jack the body up.and it just wants to stay level. Block it evenly. I like to use 3x8x12+ Doug fir blocks topped with a 2x8x10 piece of oak.

gus · December 07, 2015, 04:20:28 PM

Quote from: Sharkbait on December 06, 2015, 04:13:35 PM
Thanks for all your words of caution and advice. My parking brake is a big silver lever between the drivers seat and electrical console. I might not have had a stuck brake at all. The bus seemed to settle into some ruts which made it hard to get it moving. I dug out behind the wheels but upon reflection I might not have dug down deep enough. My air bag was coming up when I started this evolution but I might have over pressurized it because I couldn't really tell if it was coming up. The P.O. installed a system where I have 4 silver knobs below the dash each one adding or releasing air to a corner of the bus. I saw someone else post that they had the same set-up but they had a pressure gauge to tell them how much pressure they had on each set of air bags. I do not, but I definitely thing it's a worthy investment. So now I'm basking in the aftermath of my own ignorance.

I read DA-BOOK and saw where the jacking and blocking points are. The bus came with some blocks to put between the axle and suspension, this will be a project for tomorrow. I'll let you know after I assess the damage. Thanks again guys, Phil

If it is a long vertical lever it is a mechanical park brake, not an air spring brake. You can see the brake band on the drive shaft.

Sharkbait · December 07, 2015, 04:38:38 PM

Wow Jackhanow, wish I had known that trick this morning. I spent the first couple of hours this morning making a run-up block per da-book. Came out pretty good. I had a 2 ft. Piece of 4 x 12 and I backed it with a 3/4 piece of plywood. That long incline cut with a hand saw took some effort. But, now I have it. Rolled the low side up on it which gave me the room to get a bottle jack under the. Jack point. Then it was a matter of jacking and blocking. I blocked both sides and when I got under I placed blocks between the axle and frame.

My initial inspection found nothing wrong. Both airbags look intact and the airlines don't have any noticeable breaks. I had to make a wood piece that I can clamp to the air valve to depress it so tomorrow I'll hook up my compressor and run some air through the line and get back under there and find the leak. I'll let you know what I find out, Thanks again, Phil

jackhanow · December 07, 2015, 05:33:29 PM

A quick ramp is 2xs stacked at a 6 inch step taper. It makes a natural taper that the bus can drive up. i do 2x8s 2 wide per tire and only 3 layers high. Alternate long across long. Long enough that there is at least 12 inches of length for the tire to sit on. I always try to use fir not pine and 2x8 because the wider boards just split.could go higher but I can fit under my bus with the extra 5 inches when the air bags are down. .and also put a block at the place you want it to stop so you don't need to wait for the guide to yell stop. You can now put block at the support posts and work on the axle with out jacking the whole bus. They love that when you do a tour bus brake job in a hotel parking lot. When placing the boards for the ramp remember to make sure you can get the jack in the right spot, which now is the end for the air bag arm since your your not picking the bus up. Handy.

Sharkbait · December 08, 2015, 07:04:36 AM

Looks like I didn't have to jack up the bus after all. I've got a break in my airline! Very accessible too, (how often does that happen?). It's in one of the 2 lines travelling through the old A/C condenser space, (now the generator space). Looks like it was hanging low and the sun got to it and hardened it and then it broke. I need to replace about 20". I know they must make connectors and or splice kits for this line? It kinda looks like the line that goes to the ice maker in the freezer. White, plastic probably 3/16" I.D.? Any ideas? Phil

jackhanow · December 08, 2015, 10:28:06 AM

It probably 1/4 but you can use compression fittings . Make sure you use the metro inserts or they have some push in type that you can remove later as
Well

Sharkbait · December 09, 2015, 04:15:25 PM

Well, that was an easy fix. It seems 1/4" fittings and air line are readily available. I just cut out the bad section of hose, insert the hose into the fitting and it's fixed. Hose less than $1.00 a foot, couplings $7.00 and some change each at the local truck supply place.Thanks for all your help. Regards, Phil

Oonrahnjay · December 10, 2015, 01:44:10 AM

Quote from: Sharkbait on December 09, 2015, 04:15:25 PMWell, that was an easy fix. It seems 1/4" fittings and air line are readily available. I just cut out the bad section of hose, insert the hose into the fitting and it's fixed. Hose less than $1.00 a foot, couplings $7.00 and some change each at the local truck supply place.Thanks for all your help. Regards, Phil

Did you use the "push-in" type fittings? I like them but I've found that they're often a little touchy -- in fact, they're too touchy for some people at all. If you did, it's probably a good idea to check them now and after about a week. Spray a weak solution of dish soap on the connector ends and look for bubbles. Also, it helps to seal them up by giving the tubing a slight tug once it's been put in -- that "seats" the tubing in the connector and helps prevent leaks. Yeah, easy fix (with either push-in or compression-ring couplings).

Sharkbait · December 10, 2015, 11:16:45 AM

Yes I did use the push-in type and thanks for the advice. I'll give the tubing a tug to help it Seat and I'll check them periodically. I meant this as a temp fix. Eventually I want to replace both runs with new tubing. Only problem is, as we used to say in Navel Air "There's nothing so permenant as a good temporary fix". Regards, Phil

Oonrahnjay · December 10, 2015, 01:31:55 PM

Quote from: Sharkbait on December 10, 2015, 11:16:45 AMYes I did use the push-in type and thanks for the advice. I'll give the tubing a tug to help it Seat and I'll check them periodically. I meant this as a temp fix. Eventually I want to replace both runs with new tubing. Only problem is, as we used to say in Navel Air "There's nothing so permenant as a good temporary fix". Regards, Phil

That all sounds good. If you get those push-ins to hold air when you install them, they're usually good for a while -- problem is that there is an o-ring inside and they tend to age and leak. If they're OK now, they're good for a temp fix, permanent temp fix or not. As you say, by far the best thing is to replace the tubes with new.

I'm glad it's working for you! B Henderson, eastern NC, USA
(Pilot, NC Forest Service, Av. Division so I know about permanent temp fixes, too)