Suggestions for water pump manufacturers? ShurFlo and FloJet don't last.

[Scott & Heather]

Nick Badame posted a few posts up that he indeed is trying out a seaflo.


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[daveola]

I just read on a marine board that someone talking to techs from multiple pump companies confirmed that 110V pumps don't last as long as 12/24V pumps (evidently because the higher voltage arcing causes faster wear to the brushes).

Bummer.

Looks like I'll be going back to 24V.

Fortunately now that I've given up on variable speed pumps it seems there are many cheaper options, so perhaps the best way to approach this is to consider pumps expendable.


As far as mounting horizontally, does anyone think it matters whether the inlet/outlet are horizontal/vertical?  I don't think I can fit the pump where it is in the bay horizontally unless the inlet/outlet are vertical.

[Iceni John]

The do need to mounted with the pump down sorry I paid no attention to my post anyway if you take 1 apart that has been mounted in the vertical position you can see where the armature has wore a grove in the end plate and shorted out   

Some years ago I mounted an old induction motor vertically, and because the armature was heavy I put a roller thrust bearing in place of the original bushing to support the armature's lower end.   It worked fine for many years.   Could one do something similar with SHURflo-type water pumps?   Thrust bearings are quite slim  -  I used the sort that are just two hardened washers and a caged set of small rollers.

John

[eagle19952]

..... move the pump and extend the pipes ? 

[daveola]

..... move the pump and extend the pipes ? 

I could - but I'd have to move it to an entirely different part of the bay, and that's a mess I'd like to avoid.

[Lin]

I don not know your setup, so my suggestions are merely guesses.  Perhaps you could hang the pump from the bay ceiling or build a shelf for it to fit some open vertical space.

[Iceni John]

To save valuable bay space I've put several things under the bay ceilings  -  this allows me to still store Other Stuff underneath.   For lighter-weight things, like the manifolds for hot water and propane, I screw directly into the underside of the 1-1/2" marine plywood floors, and for heavier things like my inverter and water heater I made hinged or easily-detachable support frames from angle steel that are bolted to structural steel.   Even my solar panels' charge controllers and their circuit breakers are on a hinge-down panel on the side wall of the bay, behind which are the whatnots for the solar system that can be easily accessed but are otherwise safely out of the way.

Don't use up valuable real estate for pumps  -  they can go almost anywhere!

John   

[gumpy]

Aquatec Aquajet. I think that's the model I have. It's going on something like 11 years now, with only one minor problem when I got some thread tape in it and it leaked off pressure. It was easy to clean, and I put a screen on the inlet and have had no further issues. I use two 1-gallon pressure tanks in my system. The pump runs fast and furious every couple minutes when in the shower, but the pressure and flow remains fairly constant throughout.

That pump has been worth whatever money I paid for it.

[Jim Eh.]

^^ 12, 24 or 110v?

[daveola]

I would have figured that the pumps would want to be close to the bottom of the water tanks, instead of on the bay ceiling, no?

Or is that really not a problem.

I'm not wasting real estate by having them in the front - the taps are on the front of the tanks and they need a few inches to clear the door, and the pump is basically in front of the tank in that space next to the taps.

My bays are full, believe you me! 

[TomC]

My transit is sort of a unique situation with the water system. I wanted my water system above the floor line, and since transits have minimum under space, this worked well. Also, like the 4104, 4106, MCI-5, transits have wheel wells. I bought a 130gal water tank that would fit in between the wheel wells. That allowed me to mount the tank right over the rear axle. Then with the remaining space from the back of the water tank to what used to be the rear seat, I installed 2-10gal elec water heaters, 2-water pumps, both a hot and cold ball valve manifold with individual valves for each water application. It has worked well, except if there is a leak, it does leak onto the floor. But without padding on my carpet-it dries out quickly.
I'm surprised more of you with the normal big cargo compartments don't also mount your water system under your bed to free up more underneath space. Good Luck, TomC

[Scott & Heather]

Tom, I have thought many times about doing just that, but the issue for me is that when my plumbing leaks or I have to make changes or add or remove something, I have a "wet" bay. The center bay is only tanks and reverse osmosis and 30 gallon hot water heater.
So if there's ever an issue, zero water leaks in the house.


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[belfert]

All the space under my bunk beds is used for storage, a heater, and AGM batteries.  RVs/Buses seem to have more water leaks than stick houses so I don't want 100 gallons of water leaking into my living area.  I thought about maybe putting a small water tank under one of my four sets of bunks, but I've never had a water shortage to date.  I don't have a big enough waste tank for more fresh water.

[LuckyChow]

Like Tom, I have my water tank inside the coach too.  I'm also worried about water leaks, so I fiberglassed the space and put in a drain.  Here is a pic while I was building it.  The poly tank sits inside here.   

[eagle19952]

water tank under bed.... access to motor... denied ...  batteries .... ditto ...