Battery Source - Inverter too

[pennuja]

Sams club here too, I have only used them a short time but for the price and no shipping it was the only way to go at this point. I also bought a Progressive dynamics 70 Amp charger/Converter and a Xantrex Pure Sine 1000 Watt inverter, together they were around $500. So far I am happy with the setup, running the two TV's and media servers, WiFi router, and refrigerator I can go at least 36 hours and probably more without recharging. I think I spent around $1200 including relays, wire, breaker, etc for the setup.

They wanted $16 each for core charges, I brought in 4 very small batteries from a PC battery backup that I was getting rid of any way.

[Tikvah]

I got my hands on a roll of 4/0 copper wire (welding cable).  How do I connect the ends?  Do I need to buy a hydraulic crimper?  Should I crimp AND solider?  Heat shrink or tape?

[eagle19952]

I guess you've done your research

One other point, I would consider is a secondary method to do an equalization charge if in fact the unit does not have that capability.

Crimp. look around to borrow one. these work well too.

http://www.grainger.com/category/cable-and-wire-crimping-tools/crimping-tools/hand-tools/ecatalog/N-c2x#nav=%2Fcategory%2Fcable-and-wire-crimping-tools%2Fcrimping-tools%2Fhand-tools%2Fecatalog%2FN-c2xZ1yzvzdr

[eagle19952]

These work very well too.

There are a few vendors/manufacturers, some better some average.

[/u]]http://www.remybattery.com/Compression-Connectors-C1384.aspx

[pennuja]

I bought all premade interconnect cables and made the longer ones using this crimper and a vise.

Crimper.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006VU5WX8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

These are very nicely made cables for the price.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JGJGIKW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

[Tikvah]

Sams club here too, I have only used them a short time but for the price and no shipping it was the only way to go at this point. I also bought a Progressive dynamics 70 Amp charger/Converter and a Xantrex Pure Sine 1000 Watt inverter, together they were around $500. So far I am happy with the setup, running the two TV's and media servers, WiFi router, and refrigerator I can go at least 36 hours and probably more without recharging. I think I spent around $1200 including relays, wire, breaker, etc for the setup.

They wanted $16 each for core charges, I brought in 4 very small batteries from a PC battery backup that I was getting rid of any way.

Hmmm, a charger/converter and a separate inverter ? ? ?  Interesting concept. 
That seems like there could be some advantages.

Oh, and I called sam's... $18.00 core charge!  and they must be full size automotive batteries!  I never dreamed

[Lin]

When I got my group 31's, the Interstate dealer accepted one 8d as two cores and gave me cash for the other 8d.

[luvrbus]

Some states do add a disposal fee (tax) on top of the core charge we don't have it here and they take any battery,the retailer here goes from 5 and no more than 15 bucks for a battery core 

[Lee Bradley]

I got my hands on a roll of 4/0 copper wire (welding cable).  How do I connect the ends?  Do I need to buy a hydraulic crimper?  Should I crimp AND solider?  Heat shrink or tape?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOT-OF-5-NOS-PNL-500-COPPER-WIRE-LUGS-T-P-U-4-500-/391178717672?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5b141189e8

This is what I used for terminals on my 4/0 welding cable. My batteries have a stud that pulls the flat surface down on a flat lead circle about one inch in diameter. I used a piece of copper tubing over the end of the cable to distribute the load from the screw. 

[bevans6]

The major downside of a separate charger/converter and inverter is you can, if you're not careful, get into a loop where you are running the charger off the inverter and charging the batteries that you are using to charge the batteries.  Ways around that, of course.    Converters definitely have their place, they are usually biased towards being a stable DC power source for an RV rather than being an ultimate charger, but some have both modes and are programmable.

Brian

[georgemci102a2]

I like the converter charger,and separate inverter.Wouldn't have it any other way.

[Iceni John]

I got my hands on a roll of 4/0 copper wire (welding cable).  How do I connect the ends?  Do I need to buy a hydraulic crimper?  Should I crimp AND solider?  Heat shrink or tape?

Ideally all lugs should be crimped on with a good circumferential crimper that evenly compresses the lug around the cable strands so tightly that it effectively cold-welds the cable and lugs into one indivisible solid mass of copper.   The phrase for this is "gas-tight"  -  if your connection is this solid, you wouldn't even be able to wick any solder into the joint at all.   The concern with soldering is that if the lug overheats, the solder could melt out and create a fire hazard (or worse).   The least expensive crimper I've found that will make good connections like this is the FTZ 94284, available from K.L.Jack for only $170  -  it makes perfect four-sided crimps on all thicknesses and sizes of lugs, and when I cut one joint apart to check it the strands and lug had fused into one solid mass of copper.   To cut 4/0 cable without splaying out the strands (which makes it impossible to fit into a tight lug) you need a BIG cutter like a TEMco TH0003  -  they're only $39 from eBay, and plenty good enough for occasional use like what we're doing.

The small Chinese hydraulic lug crimpers, such as the Harbor Fright one, are good for up to about 4AWG, but even though their dies are marked 0AWG there's no way they can crimp that large without making rabbit ears on the lug.   However, the FTZ isn't so good on the smaller sizes, so having one of each crimper works well.   They'll make a good hexagonal crimp, again gas-tight, but only if you can work out which darn size of dies to use!

Making cables is fun, especially when you can make them exactly the right length and lug orientation, two things that ready-made cables usually won't be.   I've found the best price for tinned 4/0 lugs is from Northern Arizona Wind & Sun, and 4/0 cable is available for $4 or less from eBay sellers, so it's not too expensive to make your own cables.   And when you're done, use some good heatshrink, then you'll have cables as good as, or better than, most ready-made cables  -  I've seen some "professionally-made" cables that I wouldn't trust at all !

John

[Cary and Don]

We have been buying batteries from a recycler.  This guy gets take out batteries from fork lifts. These companies change all the batteries even if only one is weak.  Usually they are less than six months old, have never been outside and look like new.  We have two years on a set of twelve now and paid $40 each for them.  There is probably somebody like this in most areas.

Don and Cary

[eagle19952]

TEMco seems to endorse this one...

http://www.temcoindustrialpower.com/products/Crimpers/TH0007.html

[Wild Bill]

Switching inverter to shore power, I am just going to use a 120 volt relay that is energized by shore power. Unplugged from shore power the iinverter power goes through the normally closed contacts and energized shore power goes through normally open contacts. The relays I have are Potter Blumfield, one type I have has 2 sets of contacts and the other 3 all rated at 10 amps each @120 V AC with both normally open and closed contacts. Depending on inverter size you could gang up the contacts. Plug will be dead when on inverter.

Hydraulic crisper is nicest, we have a good one at work. You can even get like a loctite for the cable before you crimp, oxygen can't get to the copper strands, supposed to stop corrosion. I have a bottle from Wurth and its called electrical contact enhancer. Add a little heat shrink and your done!