Putting freon in the road air system

[Boomer]

I have a fair amount of experience operating MC-8's and 9's in a desert environment.  I got a kick out of you Clifford saying you could hang meat in an 8 with stock AC.  Maybe at 65F but not at 100+.  Even with a brand spanking new 8 or 9 you ain't going to get the cabin down much lower than about 20-25  deg. from ambiant at 100.  And that's with R-12 or Freeze 12 and a 5F30 compressor, the R134A with an 05G compressor does not perform near as well.  The condenser and evap coils must be kept squeeky clean and a few other tricks.  Before I wasted that refrigerant I would pull a vac overnight, recharge with nitrogen and see what happens.  Pay special attention to the crankshaft seal and around the dryer, as well as hoses and fittings.  JMO

[luvrbus]

Boomer,mine was a conversion with hot spray foam and double pane in motion windows when it worked it worked well but it always leaked.Welch had it blowing at 58 degrees for a price 
It was never the same after Nation converted it over to 134A.I had the crankshaft seal installed 3 different times over the years it seem to always leak  

[bigred]

That is one of the problems encountered when you convert from R12 to R134. The R134 evidently is much thinner than R12.Since it is impossible to change all the seals ,hoses and other components, if there is a weak spot any where in the system,the R134 will find it .Remember the conversions they sold for cars ,basically a charge hose and three cans of R134?? This is about what you get with these conversions except on a larger scale .On a conversion that would really work ,you would need to change the compressor ,the receiver/dryer and any other components that can be changed.That is why in most cases when you are shopping for a conversion and ask about the road air ,the owner will tell you that he just runs the genset and the overheads.