Maganum 4024 / battery smell

[gumpy]

Make sure you check all cells like Nick said. They all need to be filled. If low, use only distilled water. If empty, take the battery back and
have it replaced as you may already have damaged it.

[Brett G]

I will.  I'll then repost my updated diagram and maybe you could look it over again.  Much appreciated.

[gumpy]

Sure.

BTW, I'm not a fan of the way you're drawing your 12v from the large bank. Ultimately, even with that Vanner, you will reduce the life of your battery bank.

I'd recommend you put a 12v buffer battery in the system and move the 12v Vanner output to feed that battery, and take your 12v off that battery.
It doesn't need to be a deep cycle. A small starting battery will work just fine for that.

[Brett G]

I've updated my diagram and rearranged some things.  https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1Us02X_ZduDrJoGBe2yOWzcjrVVp0puUTW0Kp-LTj9J8/edit?usp=sharing

I checked all the water levels tonight and 1 cell in the entire group is a little low.  I'll top that off before I do anymore.

I'll plug in that controller and make sure I'm not going to blast the sh*t out of them.  It'll be this weekend before I get enough time to add that other cable and continue the testing. 

Gumpy, thanks for the suggestion.  I'll look into doing that.  I am in know way or shape an electrician so thanks. 

More to come.  Thanks

[Brett G]

Gumpy, take a look at page 6. The Tour/Charter Coach diagram.  I believe that's what I have?  Can you elaborate on the buffer battery?  http://www.vanner.com/manuals/66-80.pdf

Thanks

[gumpy]

Your master switch is on the ground side. It needs to be on the Positive side, between the battery bank and the fuses.

You also need a switch and a fuse on the 12v supply to your 12v distribution box.

I assume the switch you show on the starting batteries is a crossover switch, and not your coach master switch.  

[gumpy]

Gumpy, take a look at page 6. The Tour/Charter Coach diagram.  I believe that's what I have?  Can you elaborate on the buffer battery?  http://www.vanner.com/manuals/66-80.pdf

Thanks

Look at the diagram at the top of page 8.  Left hand side. The one that says, "Acceptable".  Consider the 12v batteries on the right a single small car battery. The Vanner
charges them from the 24v bank. There's no imbalance on the house bank. The 12v loads are fed by the Vanner, and the battery takes up any temporary 12v load that is
higher than the Vanner output capability.

[Brett G]

Your master switch is on the ground side. It needs to be on the Positive side, between the battery bank and the fuses.

You also need a switch and a fuse on the 12v supply to your 12v distribution box.

I assume the switch you show on the starting batteries is a crossover switch, and not your coach master switch.  

Ok

Ok

You are correct

[Brett G]

Look at the diagram at the top of page 8.  Left hand side. The one that says, "Acceptable".  Consider the 12v batteries on the right a single small car battery. The Vanner
charges them from the 24v bank. There's no imbalance on the house bank. The 12v loads are fed by the Vanner, and the battery takes up any temporary 12v load that is
higher than the Vanner output capability.

My Vanner is the 80amp versionn  Wouldn't that mean the Vanner could handle 80amps and there would be no imbalance unless drawing over that?

[gumpy]

In theory you are correct. In reality, plan on about 80% of that for normal usage, with the other 20% for short term surges usage.

That's why I say, you don't need a big buffer battery. Even a motorcycle battery would suffice. 80 amps is a crapload of power for normal RV usage,
especially when you have a huge inverter powering all your 120v appliances. You just won't use that much 12v power.

Make sure you size your cables accordingly. 80 amp potential requires a pretty large cable (2 ga, I think, though I didn't look it up). Which means the feed
to the Vanner would be probably 4 ga (again, I didn't confirm this).

You also need to make sure you have adequate space around that Vanner for cooling. It needs to be cool to be efficient. Same with your inverter.

[Dave5Cs]

And still put that on/ off switch on the negative cable between the Vanner and the battery because if you don't the Vanner will draw off your starts when parked and charger not on. You will go to go somewhere and it won't start. Trust me on this.

[eagle19952]

question in a minute
i know they make 24v radios http://farmradiosupply.com/24_volt_radio.html
and 24v LED's http://www.waclighting.com/product/1325

why else does one want 12v available ?

[Lee Bradley]

While most of these are listed as 12 volts, their operating range is 10 to 30 volts.

http://www.sailorsams.com/replacement-led-halogen-xenon-MH-bulbs

[Brett G]

And still put that on/ off switch on the negative cable between the Vanner and the battery because if you don't the Vanner will draw off your starts when parked and charger not on. You will go to go somewhere and it won't start. Trust me on this.

I do have a main disconnect on the starter batteries that isn't shown on the diagram.  I also have a disconnect on the 24v line feeding the house bank.  Do you think I still need one?  Thanks

https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1Us02X_ZduDrJoGBe2yOWzcjrVVp0puUTW0Kp-LTj9J8/edit

[Brett G]

In my case, I've inherited some 12 volt stuff from the PO so I don't have a choice.