Plas-tex wall covering

mung · February 04, 2015, 02:57:00 PM

Thanks to our trip to Arcadia the wife decided that our "master suite" needed to be redone. We have all of the redneck engineering out of there now and are ready to start rebuilding it the way we want it. We found some Plas-tex panels at Lowes and thought it would make a good wall covering for the areas below the windows and the dividing wall between the bedroom and the bathroom.

Now the question. How to attach it. Wanting to maximize space and minimize weight, I want to avoid a full frame or a "sub wall" for the sections under the window. So to me it seems like I have a couple of options. Option 1 would be to use something like liquid nail on the metal beams and anywhere else that could hold it. Option 2 would be using plastic rivets (like car trim is held on with) which would allow me to remove them if need be at any point.

Anyone done anything like this? Any other possible solutions?

mung · February 04, 2015, 03:08:10 PM

To clarify the mounting theory, right now there is 61 year old nasty vinyl screwed on to the sides under the windows. If I went with the plastic rivet method, I would use the old screw mount points (probably have to drill them out larger) to mount the Plas-tex.

eagle19952 · February 04, 2015, 03:13:55 PM

*** PLAS-TEX panels are designed to install with trowel grade latex adhesive over structurally sound solid interior walls, such as drywall or plywood.***

i think you will end up with wavy walls....
1/4 inch Luan might solve that problem ... netting a 7/16" thick wall.

i would consider luan and Formica.... more colors, thinner and possibly equally if not more durable. i have a whitish grey grained wood toned formica on thicker 1/2 and 3/8 birch plywood, in some places.

MightyThor · February 04, 2015, 03:18:45 PM

we use similar materials in our rental bathrooms and have attached in various ways with mixed results. The glue you use should be specifically formulated for the plastic you use because some of the adhesives will either react with the plastic and cause a visible defect, or some can swell and also cause a noticeable glue line. Also have had type correct glue fail due to some sort of defect either age or what ever, one whole case just failed to grab. Other option was screws which we have done with decorative washers or screw head covers. Around the tub we always use stainless and covers. Not sure how thick your material will be, but I find the thin stuff lays best when there is a solid sheet of material behind as a backer. doesn't seem to matter whether it is Sheetrock, Masonite, even old tile walls.

mung · February 04, 2015, 03:28:15 PM

Don, not overly concerned with some waves in it. When I look at the benefits of having something that I don't have to worry about getting wet vs having some ripples in the walls that are going to be mostly hidden by the bed, well, that is why I bought a piece to try.

Thor, I have thought about screws as well. Something like the old cabinet screws with the snap over covers might be a very good option. I don't like that they stick out, but that might be the best way to go. There are also the screw covers like they give you with flat pack furniture, but those seem to always fall off.

MightyThor · February 04, 2015, 03:47:22 PM

Quote from: mung on February 04, 2015, 03:28:15 PM
Don, not overly concerned with some waves in it. When I look at the benefits of having something that I don't have to worry about getting wet vs having some ripples in the walls that are going to be mostly hidden by the bed, well, that is why I bought a piece to try.

Thor, I have thought about screws as well. Something like the old cabinet screws with the snap over covers might be a very good option. I don't like that they stick out, but that might be the best way to go. There are also the screw covers like they give you with flat pack furniture, but those seem to always fall off.

When we glue the heads we start with with stainless pan heads, and plastic caps that are glued with white claulk. Pain to get off usually, but not impossible. When they do get knocked or ripped off, there is still no rust or leakage and are easily replaced. Not smooth for sure, but useable for the rental. Might consider a colored trim screw and see if you notice the heads. Not sure if the trim screws come stainless but a bedroom may not matter. maybe something like this.
[imghttp://www.ultimategarage.com/hardware/spaxcaps.jpg][/img]

Beesme · February 05, 2015, 04:12:14 PM

You really need to build some kind of frame for the walls ... If you try short cuts you will never be happy... Even just a small sub frame maybe 3/4" studs and a backing of Luan then the plastic and your results will be awesome... Jmho

mung · February 05, 2015, 04:23:42 PM

I should probably run out and take a picture, but what I am talking about is down below the window where the vinyl panels are now. I think I have settled on using screws with caps in the old screw locations from those panels.

I will go out and see if I can get a picture.

mung · February 05, 2015, 04:40:45 PM

See the nasty green vinyl padded stuff under the window? That is what I want to replace with the Plas-Tex.

Beesme · February 05, 2015, 04:53:47 PM

Yes mine was a yellow color aluminum underneath. I tore it all out and used 3/4" tongue n groove thruout. Bolted right to the ribs of the bus .. Of course I reinsulated first . I also can unbolt the complete wall if I ever need to.

mung · February 05, 2015, 04:57:10 PM

So you bolted right to the spot where the nasty stuff was? That is what I am thinking. I will use screw covers. I didn't want them sticking out but I can't figure a better solution.

Newbob · February 06, 2015, 06:30:01 AM

You could youtube some interior upholstery techniques - I used a few of them myself. Plywood with "bass boat" carpet covering, vinyl wallpaper and one of my favorite - if done tastefully and in the right area - a faux leather material over 1/4 - 3/8" foam with the little upholstery buttons screwed into whatever pattern you like (also requires a 1/4" or so plywood backer.

I have also used the faux wainscotting paneling to much success - either white or maple or other wood looking fisnish. - might that work for you?

chessie4905 · February 06, 2015, 07:18:27 AM

You could also consider Formica or equiv. Hundreds of patterns/colors. Very durable and also resists burning in a fire.

mung · February 06, 2015, 07:23:24 AM

I just ripped out a ton of http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-1-4-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-MDF-Wainscot-Panel-739558/202090200 which was screwed onto a frame of mixed 2x4 and 1x1 along with whatever else the PO could find in the scrap pile. I am trying to avoid going back in that direction.

The reason for the Plas-tex is that it can't rot if it gets wet, is easy to clean if it gets dirty, is light weight, easy to cut, and easy to pull down if I need access. Again this is being used under the windows where the vinyl panels are now. Although if I like the way it works there I may use it in other places, but those would have a wood frame or solid backing.

Melbo · February 06, 2015, 08:38:23 AM

Just a thought.

As I have been reading this thread I was wondering if it would be possible to remove the old nasty looking panels and attach the Plas-tex to them. Mark and drill the holes in the original locations and then reattach the panels.

This would give you the new look and the support of the existing panels.

Melbo