This Bus Nut is about to go Nuts!

[Bryan]

Bryan the best tools I have for testing wiring is my test light and a three foot wire with alligator clips on each end, The wire lets you jump circuits while the test light is attached so it gives you a visual when the power drops out. Hook the light up, beat on the panel and if the light go off then take the jumper wire jump circuits till you find the culprit. HTH. Glen

I'm going to have to make me one of those!

[Bryan]

Bryan am I hearing a big sigh of relief ? Hope you traced it down


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

yes! very much a relief, this has been going on for quite sometime. I'm very happy to find the problem. Now I just gotta fix it :-)

[Bryan]

Very possible. And with all the corrosion I see in your panel, I would consider replacing a few other items in there. Before you go replacing hard to find parts, I would
recommend  you bypass it completely as I indicated above, rather than using a jumper (you didn't say what size wire you jumpered it with), and take it for a long
drive to replicate the scenarios that were causing the problem to occur. Then, if you are sure it's not happening any more, replace the part.

I'm not seeing much in the way of 90 amp breakers (though I didn't search extensively), but according to the schematic that cable is a #1 so should be good up to about 130 amps.
You could go with an 80 amp breaker, or could probably go up to a 100 amp breaker with no issues. The 80 should be plenty for your needs. It looks like the headlights are probably
the biggest draw on that circuit. I assume all the interior lighting was replaced. Windshield wipers are on there, too. Not much else for current draw, so 80 amps should be sufficient.

I don't see a direct replacement, but here's one that I think will work, though you may have to move the bus bar assembly to fit it. Or, yo might have to make a new bus bar.

http://www.waytekwire.com/item/46913/HI-AMP-AUTO-RESET-80-AMP/

They have a similar 100 amp breaker, too, if you decide to go that route.

Waytek will also have a 20 amp panel mount breaker to replace that corroded one below.

BTW, you might be able to find one at NAPA or you might try a semi-truck parts house. Another option might be to call one of the local charter companies and
ask them if they might have one they'd sell to you.

Thanks again Gumpy!

yea I have looked around the internet for one and can't find it either. Of course there are lots of types of breakers out there, just haven't found a direct fit, therefore I may have to do some modifying like you said. I'm wondering if that 130 amp breaker right next to it is even being used? It says it's going to a blower? Isn't that the old air conditioner and heater that would have been in it back in the day? Wondering if I could possibly use that one?

[gumpy]

No. Don't do that. The breaker is there to protect the wire in the event of a short. The breaker must be sized less than the maximum current carrying capacity of
the wire. The wire on the 90 amp breaker is a #1 and is rated at about 125 amps in an enclosed space. That other breaker exceeds that capacity and so would not
protect the wire in a short.

The wire on that other breaker is a #2, which has a much higher current rating.  Interesting that it's still connected, though, if your blowers have been removed.
You might want to trace it and see where it goes and what was done on the other end of it when the blowers were removed. Obviously it's still hot!

If it's not being used, you could eliminate the bus bar alltogether with one of the high current breakers like in the link I sent. Just attach the battery cable to
one post and the feed to the front panel to the other and remove the other breaker and cable completely.

[Cary and Don]

When you buy the breaker,  make sure the posts are the right size for you wire.  Changing the lugs is a real PITA. I think the lug on those cables has a hole larger than 1/4" if I recall.

Don and Cary