your thoughts on polishing the aluminum

Bryan · November 06, 2014, 03:34:14 PM

hey guys, the aluminum that goes around the bottom of the bus has a lot of hazy areas, oxidation areas, places where stickers used to be. I'm trying to find the best method to restoring all of this. I know there is the option of polishing the whole thing... which I've heard becomes a lot of upkeep? (is this true)? or is there some type of cleaner that will get oxidation off, and get rid of spots where stickers used to be? Thanks!

mung · November 06, 2014, 03:44:36 PM

http://alumaslick.com/

It worked to remove the oxidation and shine it up a bit. I am going to try some jewelry polish on some of the harder rubber marks and such.

robertglines1 · November 06, 2014, 03:56:32 PM

remember alum is porous. anything will sink in. WD 40--or PB blaster is a possibility. Try a small area. Will remove rubber streaks and road dirt/oil residue. Then there is bars of polishing compound you can use with a buffer/polisher. Good luck.

chessie4905 · November 06, 2014, 04:51:20 PM

Anything even mildly abrasive will just deteriorate the remaining coating on the aluminum. NeverDull works pretty nice, but is is temporary. Depending on weather, it may only last a month or several. Easy to reapply. Comes in a silver can full of wadding. I've seen it at Walmarts, Amazon, ebay and auto parts stores. Quite impressive results with little effort.

Bryan · November 06, 2014, 04:56:12 PM

Have any of you heard of "Master Formula"... I've watched a couple youtube videos on it. It's a polish, and then they have the sealer to go along with it that is supposed to keep it longer... here is a link... http://www.amazon.com/Master-Formula-Metal-Gloss-Sealer/dp/B00EHYOVKU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415320866&sr=8-1&keywords=master+formula

TrentAiken · November 06, 2014, 05:48:15 PM

Never Dull is a good product but I can not imagine doing an entire bus with it, standard vehicle mags are exhausting enough

Trent Aiken
Tooele Utah
1966 PD1407

Jim Eh. · November 06, 2014, 07:34:09 PM

The problem with only doing some spots is just that ... you end up with some clean and shiny spots. Now you are committed to do the rest to make it look even. An old gag courtesy of Mr. Hull to be played out time after time. He probably still snickers every time.

ros · November 06, 2014, 09:28:55 PM

Even used motor oil will do or used transmission fluid. Nothing will last for very long. These will last just as long as WD-40 or PB Blaster.

Quote from: robertglines1 on November 06, 2014, 03:56:32 PM
remember alum is porous. anything will sink in. WD 40--or PB blaster is a possibility. Try a small area. Will remove rubber streaks and road dirt/oil residue. Then there is bars of polishing compound you can use with a buffer/polisher. Good luck.

sdc53 · November 06, 2014, 09:33:27 PM

PO painted my aluminum. I wish I had something to polish sometimes.

luvrbus · November 07, 2014, 05:13:13 AM

DeepWoods insect repellant will shine it

chessie4905 · November 07, 2014, 05:14:57 AM

Neverdull isn't applied like polishing compound and rubbed to shine. You just take a small piece of wadding and wipe an area as you go. Easier and faster than waxing with less work. Probably could do the entire lower area in less than two hours. I was amazed how nice it worked. I tried several different substances with lesser results.

sparkplug188 · November 07, 2014, 05:28:17 AM

Sheila Shine works well for me. Anything that leaves an oily residue will work just as well-- even Clifford's bug repellent.

wg4t50 · November 07, 2014, 06:02:14 AM

Always enjoy seeing a nice shiny well painted good looking bus, however my energy has always been in the running area, always felt I the get me home was more important than the shiny one sitting along the road broke.
We all have choices, so I do what makes me happy, passing cars on mountains with the MC7 and non standard engines that have been used.

robertglines1 · November 07, 2014, 06:16:06 AM

when you get down to it the finer polish you get on alum the longer it will last. From not done before start with 1000grit sand paper go in steps to 1500 the start with buffer and polishing bar--If you want try brown bar first to see what stage of finish you siding is. When I did my stainless I polished my alum bumpers with the rubbing bars only. They held up real good time wise and were easily refreshed with the white bar. I did paste wax. the little polishing procedure with polish depends on current level of your siding. The oil based Pb blaster & Wd 40 are just handy for foreign matter/tar etc removal. When using a power buffer and bars it left a black residue(build up) which I easily removed with lac thinner--didn't use oil based products because of film left when I intended to polish higher... . If you power buff don't wear good clothes. 2nd thought buy different wheels for each color bar/they come in coarse ratings also. Just what worked for me on three coaches. Ps saw Dave's post while I was typing=agree spit and shine is second. When you get bored== polish.

luvrbus · November 07, 2014, 06:30:42 AM

There not much you can do with anodized aluminum siding you get past the anodizing then you create another problem in upkeep and one needs to be careful using the degrease products it will streak the siding beyond restoration, soap and water with a little vinegar is about the best you can do then I used Turtle Wax chrome polish about once a year on mine JMO