I got stump?? What would be the right way to wire this cook top??

[johnjem]

OK here it goes,, wiring to the stove   red (hot)   black (hot)  white and copper   4 wires,,,,,, The new cooktop glass top drop in counter ! The wires are   red (hot)   black ( hot) and green!!!   this in a 220 cooktop and is feed by 2 independent hot breaker 20 amp,,,  What do I do with that white extra wire on wires going to the stove,,,, The bus was wired in 1995 and I am sure codes have changed. Any help would be nice! thanks john

[bevans6]

If it's a true 240 VAC cooktop you can ignore the white neutral wire - just cap it off with a wire nut and tuck it out of the way.  Green goes to green or frame, red to red and black to black.  Replace the two independent 20 amp breakers with a single ganged (two in one) breaker, or install a ganging pin between the two toggles so they act as one.

Neutral is often not used in a 240 volt appliance, unless it is needed for clocks, lights, timers and such.  Neutral gives the option of having a 120 volt pulled from one of the two hot feeds.

Brian

[johnjem]

GOOD POINT,bevans6 ,I will keep the two independent breakers so I don't have a emty space on the panel ! I don't know why it was done that way 1 beaker turns on front burner and the other turns on the rear!

[bevans6]

Two independent breakers are not really an option unless you want to retain an illegal and highly unsafe installation.  It's against every code anywhere, for anything, to have two independent supplies into a single fixture that are not controlled together.  Someone comes along to work on your bus, you're not around, pops the one breaker and gets killed from the other breaker still being hot.  It's really not a good idea.

Edit, came on a bit strong.  In the middle of replacing an electrical panel in one of my buildings that was wired all over with independant fuses when they should have been ganged.  Going to cost me a lot to make it safe.  Do as you please now that you know the right way to do it.

Brian

[johnjem]

its a 220 volt, and the panel is a NEWMAR panel!

[brmax]

Am I on the right page, I thought you needed the white and the equipment ground was jus that.
Can I ask for a second opinion please and help me understand this a bit more.
Thanks Man appreciate it

[bevans6]

On a current 240 volt appliance (old appliances were sometimes different) red and black are hot, green is the equipment grounding conductor, and neutral is white.  Neutral is only required if a 120 volt source is needed inside the appliance.  I can definitely see a cooktop not needing anything at 120 volts.

Edit, sorry, I guess me saying the same thing twice isn't really a second opinion....

Brian

[brmax]

Ok im on the same page, ? is this where a need for green connection go to home at the box equipment ground.
Thanks guys

[bevans6]

Yes, the green conductor needs to be bonded (connected) to the box that serves the appliance, to the metallic frame of the appliance, to the grounding strip in the main breaker panel and from there to the chassis of the bus.  This is exactly the same as every single 120 or 240 volt outlet, appliance, switch, or anything else that is connected to the system.  It's always the same, it never changes, there is no exception to grounding the boxes.  Exactly how to accomplish that, with what kind of wire, is subject to NEC and RIVA codes.

Electricity is actually very easy, it's the codes that are hard.

Brian

[johnjem]

OK I am good I will cap the white!! Now the second part of ?  Do I attach the green wire from the stove to the bare copper wire on the bus ? and that bare copper wire is grounded to metal box and is run with metal armor all the way back to another junction box and then is grounded into earth! from 50amp plug

[bevans6]

Yes you can attach the green wire to the bare copper wire.  But with these questions I would suggest you get someone who knows about this sort of thing to inspect your work. 

Brian

[luvrbus]

The induction type and about any drop in with push button controls require the 110 v leg for the controls better consult the manufacture on this one I just went through this on a Jenn/Aire   

[johnjem]

     HERE is the old one I took out!

[johnjem]

the new one

[eagle19952]

it would be best if you post a link to your exact model
it won't hurt a thing to pull a white wire thru your conduit
spiral armor is never an acceptable ground conductor
emt is under coded circumstances
why didn't you get a 110v...just curious
it looks like a re-branded Sealand stove top to me.
post a link
the on indicator lamp may need the neutral
post a link
an over temp safety shut off may need the neutral
post a link