Troubleshooting an air leak

[brmax]

if your close to an o'riley as mentioned try telling them this number 27266 gates for reference to a new style of air brake hose that is used a lot and is a dot hose. But removing the complete hose is great, if nothing else cut it in half and take what you can as the guys mentioned most hoses that are a braid have field serviceable end fittings so just the hose can be replaced most of the time. I will say most hoses on the buses are of a super duty.
hth

[Geom]

Thanks everyone for the great info provided! I feel much better about the state of things now

From the sounds of it, I think I need to get back under there tomorrow and pull that line. That'll give me a better idea of what I'm dealing with and what kind of ends it has and whether they are reusable.
I also completely agree that I pretty much want to replace all of those hoses back there and I'll make sure to keep some extra hoses on hand for the future.
I'll also make sure to look for actual hoses vs those plastic tubes mentioned.

Thor, thanks for the detailed explanation of the fittings. I guess I'll find out what I have in a bit but it's great knowing what's available. Can I use compression fittings if the original was flare? Or is that also matched on the equipment side?

Bruce, thanks for the added good "engineering" tip. I'll definitely keep that in mind as I have several of those hose clamp things around!

Dave, we're in Mountain View, MO a little bitty town about an hour and half east of Springfield.
We actually do have coachnet already and I completely agree that it's well worth the cost. It's my failsafe plan if I can't get it done on my own. I'd just rather avoid being towed out of here if I can at all avoid it.

I did have a couple of questions
1) is there an easy way to identify which end on the hose will free rotate so I can remove it first? Or is trial and error?

2) when putting the new hoses back on, should I use any Teflon tape like I would on a water fitting?

Thanks again!
George

[Dave5Cs]

George look for the two nuts together with a small gap between them. You can use two wrenches and one will turn out and then the other will turn out of the valve etc. Some are trial and error.
Yes Teflon tape or liquid just make sure there is none that gets in the fitting. doesn't take much to stop up a valve.
Good Luck and let us all know how your doing.
I think (Scott) is in MO somewhere.    harleyman_1000@yahoo.com

Dave5Cs

[brmax]

George I wished I was closer than 150 miles, but you mentioned your location in Mountain View  there is an auto parts, that can deliver to some extent parts.
CARQUEST ph 417 934 6594, I have talked to the fella he makes up dot brake hose in store and also has some premade his store is west of town His name is Dale.
I ask him about a truck service also and he mentioned Gentleman Jims in town 417 934 6594.
good luck and good day

[Geom]

Great, thanks Dave. I'll post back with more status after I get that pulled this week. The weather is looking kind of dicey today and I may wait another day to get back under there.
I guess if it does rain, I'll have the "shelter" of a 15 ton bus above me, lol!

Brmax, thanks a lot for the info provided! I really appreciate it. I'll give Dale a call.
Someone else around here (RV park) had mentioned Gentleman Jims in passing so I may be giving him a call as well. We'll see

Thanks again!
George

[Jim Eh.]

Here is a pic of a re-usable or field serviceable air line fitting
http://www.brassfittings.com/images/reusableairbrakeftgs-pic.gif


Bottom center, in it you will see a castlated sleeve you would need to buy.

Also RH center is some nylon (or Synflex) air line fittings.


And here is a picture of a ready made line. You will notice one end is more "complex". That is the swivel end as indicated.

http://www.thetruckersreport.com/truckingindustryforum/attachments/trucks-eighteen-wheelers-/39509d1354471407-looking-air-chamber-hose-595959-jpg.att

[eagle19952]

http://www.brassfittings.com/reusableairbrakeftgs.php

[Geom]

Hello all,

It's been a while and I wanted to post an update on this.
The weather has been nonstop rain for days and I've been chasing water leaks instead of air leaks the last couple of day, lol. I have a couple of leaky windows that I've been battling for a while and every time I think I've won, a new front in the battle emerges

Anyway, we finally had a nice sunny day today, so I managed to get enough pressure built up in the system to raise the chassis and block it. I got under the bus and proceeded to remove the bad hose. After screwing with trying to gently remove the hose from its present position, it became clear that I would not be able to do so, without the hose tearing. Neither side of the fittings was a swivel connection. So turning one side tightened the other and so on. So I decided "screw it" and continued turning the hose. It eventually gave out by fraying and splitting completely (it definitely needed to go!). So I'm not sure what kind of hose-installing-jujitsu it took to get it on the first time, but I couldn't figure it out.

Anyway, I took the hose (bits) to carquest, they were able to easily cut another shiny new hose, and I asked them to put swivel fittings on there. So whoever replaces these hoses after me should have a much easier time, lol! After I got it installed and did a pressure test, then a happy dance once I saw 120psi build up and no leaks; I decided to push forward and replace any other hose under there that I didn't like the look of. I already knew the driver-side dd3 "emergency port" hose had to go. I also saw that the hose coming from the rear valve to the dd3 was kinked and cracked, so off it went as well. That one made me much more nervous because the ends on it looked completely different. Anyway, back to carquest I went and he was able to make me a new hose for both. Although the one from the rear valve had some strain relief springs on it that were attached to the hose. He was not able to recreate that, but neither of us thought it should be an issue. I got it installed with a minimal bend radius and it doesn't look kinked or strained. The ends look different, but they fit in the spot they used to.

I did a complete pressure/leak test and everything looked good. I pumped the brakes a couple of times and could hear them actuating and discharging (while I watched underneath). I have not driven it yet, but I'm hoping that should be a nonissue since everything else looked ok.  

So this is my long-winded way of saying thank you to everyone for your help, advice, and suggestions! I realize it's a silly simple fix for most folks on this forum, but I felt good getting that done, lol! And your help was crucial in getting that done! And now I know just a little bit more about how all of this works, which is always a good thing

George