HELP!! We Need Diesel Mechanic Advice

[cloudy7282@bellsouth.net]

We have an 89 Eagle with a 6v92.  It Has an oil leak between the engine and bell housing where the direct drive alternator hooks up to it.  What is the easiest way to repair it?  Would it be easier to pull the transmission or the motor and transmission?  Suggestions???

[luvrbus]

Check for missing bolts first between the plate and the block,that is major work to repair if leaking between the bell housing, back plate the engine will need to come out,the bell housing removed,all the gears off the back to remove the plate replace the gaskets and go back together probably caused by good old silicone on a used gasket 

To give you a idea on what is involved Valley Power charged a friend of mine 10k to fix a leak there 

[pvcces]

Cliff, is that what you are thinking is leaking on our 4106?

Thanks.

Tom Caffrey

[luvrbus]

Yea I think so Tom next time you and the wife are here we will clean it good and be sure then you can have your brother repair it  heck I am so kind I'll give him the gaskets

[bevans6]

The joint between the bellhousing, the rear engine plate and the block on a two stroke is a major leak source.  Most of the leaks will not be under pressure, but some of the bolts are into oil galleries, and the gaskets do seal up some pressure joints.  When I did my engine swap I estimated that the rear of the engine took me about 100 hours to finish - easily 60 hours were spent cleaning and fettling the old parts to make them decent to reinstall.  It's not hard work, in the skill intensive meaning of the word hard, it's just that the parts are bloody heavy, hard to work with, the grime is astoundingly persistent, and you find so much to fix while you are in there - in my case a total renewal of the clutch plate, pilot bearing, all of the oil seals, etc.  Changing the actual gaskets that are probably leaking is literally about 30 minutes of the job.  I took my engine plate off to install a power steering pump drive.  100 hours to do a job that literally took about 5 minutes start to finish - installing the drive was five bolts and one gasket.

Brian

[eagle19952]

back when i apprenticed a DD shop....prepping the gear plate was one of the most critical preps for a rebuild....was a deep down doodoo redo....

we used an orbital sander on the gasket surface area you wanted almost a crosshatch onit....and no silicone.
i did not allow silicone in any shop i ran/owned.

[luvrbus]

  I cannot even get the old gaskets off in under a hour

[eagle19952]

I cannot even get the old gaskets off in under a hour

you can if they weren't put on properly....that's how you tell the attention to detail of those that trod before you....

the sand marks hold a lot of permatex, you could use hylomar in my shop...

[luvrbus]

I remember DD sent a bulletin saying you could use RTV instead of gaskets that didn't last long the few they shipped with RTV were oil leaking suckers they sent another bulletin saying remove the previous bulletin and discard it 

[bevans6]

I used the Permatex no. 2 aviation sealant, I sure hope it was the right stuff.  So far I just have a major leak on the passenger side that I can't find for the life of me...  I'll get it though!  I am leaking about a quart a thousand miles, judging by my car on the dolly...

Brian