Water temperature - Page 2
 

Water temperature

Started by pennuja, September 27, 2014, 04:36:50 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

Seangie

I pulled both my thermostats with zero experience.  Just figured it out along the way.  Its not rocket science.  Looking back now if I paid someone 125$ an hour to replace my thermostats I'd be pissed at myself.

-Sean

Wandering the country in a 1984 Eagle 10S. 
www.herdofturtles.org
'Cause you know we,
we live in a van (Eagle 10 Suburban)
Driving through the night
To that old promised land'

robertglines1

Summary: sit for 5 yrs,had elect cooling fans added, and lost power also good probability when you hit switch for defroster/heat the valve opened and  drained coolant into a empty heating system.= needed to add more to expansion tank.  No smoke or significant oil loss or gain.  Probability-rad needs roding out and great possibility your old fuel filters are clogged. Do easy things first.  Scott just went thru this with is 6 71.  Is that about sequence you describe.  Yes a clogged rad should make it run hotter ? is why the fans.   Just thinking points.   Bob
Bob@Judy  98 XLE prevost with 3 slides --Home done---last one! SW INdiana

chessie4905

   With the outside temp in the lower 50's, your engine temp would be what you saw, especially with no shutters and plugged fuel filters. When were they changed? If you didn't change them when you got the coach, do it right away before you run it again. You'll probably find improved power and now some black smoke(normal) till it gets rev'd up. Do this first before worrying about other things.
GMC h8h 649#028 (4905)
Pennsylvania-central

pvcces

You should also check for a free throttle cable; many of them will get stiff enough to prevent a full throttle. You can't necessarily tell from the way the throttle feels.

For what it's worth.

Tom
Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576
Suncatcher
Ketchikan, Alaska

pennuja

Thanks everyone for the ideas, I stopped by tonight to try again to get it home and while driving it lost power again. I stopped and talked to a friend who told me to change the fuel filter and that was it.

The  fuel was so dirty that the new filter was clogged to the point that fuel was barely getting through. When my friend stopped he pointed out that the primary fuel filter was removed. I am going to have to drain my tank because the fuel is definitely really bad from sitting, I think that there is a drain under the tank or is it better to pump it out with a small pump through the fuel line?

I also need to add a switch to the electric fans, if there is not already one there. My temps tonight were 150 again.

Thanks again for the support!

Jim
Jim Pennucci
Northwestern NJ
1958 GMC PD-4104-3856

luvrbus

Did they have a primary filter I thought they just had a metal strainer
Life is short drink the good wine first

pennuja

My friend showed me where he believes that it should have been.

Is there any reason not to have a primary/secondary setup, I want to go with whatever works best.
Jim Pennucci
Northwestern NJ
1958 GMC PD-4104-3856

mung

Mine has a primary and secondary filter.  The primary was changed from the old serviceable type to a spin on filter mounted to the right of the engine above the tranny on the firewall.  The filter in the engine is still the original type. 
Vern in Central Florida
PD-4104-772

luvrbus

Just buy a Davo 382 Fuel/Pro and be done with it they have a heater,primer,water separator and a heater to keep the fuel from gelling then you see when the filter needs changing they are always on E bay they pay for self in filters
Life is short drink the good wine first

chessie4905

   They should have a primary strainer that is serviceable, however many have been removed and changed to first, replaceable socks in steel cans. those have now evolved to screw on throwaway elements. Much less mess and easy to change out on the road. Should have a primary and secondary. They sell element bases at Napa and probably on Ebay. You should carry at least one spare set at all times, plus a gallon of fuel to fill them out on the road if necessary. Don't forget a strap wrench of your choice to remove old element. If you add an electric fuel pump, you can omit the extra fuel.Some people trumpet those fancy one piece fuel filter units, but on the two cycle non electronic engines, I personally don't think they are worth the cost. Great on the newer 4 cycle engines maybe. Some primary screw on elements can come with a petcock or drain bung so you can check for water.
GMC h8h 649#028 (4905)
Pennsylvania-central

luvrbus

I never was a big fan of the fuel/pro till lately since they dropped so much in price used ones now are 50 bucks at truck wrecking yards, I bought 3 new ones off Ebay for less than a 100 bucks each he was only asking 125 bucks each, the old spin on filter base new will cost you 50  bucks they are neat makings priming easy for a old 2 stroke no need for the gal of fuel 
Life is short drink the good wine first

pennuja

I was going through the file cabinet in the bus today and found all of the paperwork from the original conversion. There is a switch to turn on and off the fans and the radiator was converted into a larger one from what the documentation says. I found the manual for the fans in the cabinet as well and it is temp adjustable so it will only come on at around 200.

The bus did have that large glass filter installed because the document states that as well, although someone has since converted it to a spin on filter. I did find the glass one in one of the compartments so I could add it back if needed. I found three spin on filters in the compartment as well.

One of the greatest finds was the original service card from the bus company, the PO that converted it was friends with the guy at the bus company that serviced it. According to the docs it was converted at around 250,000 miles, the hub shows 240,xxx miles so now I know it has just under 500k on it. I also found all of the wiring schematics from the conversion so at least I can figure out some of the wiring. I learned more in the last hour than I could have imagined about it! The original convertor saved every manual from all of the appliances and accessories (Air conditioner, generator, can opener etc) I also found a four page document written by the owners son explaining every thing his dad did.

Here is a scan of the service record, there are 4 pages showing dates all of the way up to 1992!



Jim Pennucci
Northwestern NJ
1958 GMC PD-4104-3856

Iceni John

I also have a dozen or more binders for almost every single part and item I've used in my conversion, either their manual or drawing or instructions or specifications, or whatever information I can find for it.   This way, when I'm old and feeble I'll still know what I did now, and it should make it easier if I have to replace or upgrade parts.

You can never have too much information!
John
1990 Crown 2R-40N-552 (the Super II):  6V92TAC / DDEC II / Jake,  HT740.     Hecho en Chino.
2kW of tiltable solar.
Behind the Orange Curtain, SoCal.

luvrbus

Hum wonder what oil he used when the power steering pump was replaced
Life is short drink the good wine first

pennuja

Quote from: luvrbus on September 29, 2014, 05:38:43 PM
Hum wonder what oil he used when the power steering pump was replaced

Funny I was thinking the same thing ;D
Jim Pennucci
Northwestern NJ
1958 GMC PD-4104-3856