Wheel cleanup question
 

Wheel cleanup question

Started by Charles in SC, August 25, 2014, 07:04:55 PM

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Charles in SC

Hello all, I am about to get new tires for my 5303. I have steel, hub piloted 11 24.5 wheels that are rusted and painted many times. I am trying to investigate powder coating them or getting stainless wheel covers.
Any comments are welcome such as how well does powder coating work and last?
There are different kinds of wheel covers, are some better than others? brands, mounting types etc?
Thanks in advance!
S8M 5303 built in 1969, converted in 2000

Oonrahnjay

Quote from: Charles in SC on August 25, 2014, 07:04:55 PM
Hello all, I am about to get new tires for my 5303. I have steel, hub piloted 11 24.5 wheels that are rusted and painted many times. I am trying to investigate powder coating them or getting stainless wheel covers.
Any comments are welcome such as how well does powder coating work and last?
There are different kinds of wheel covers, are some better than others? brands, mounting types etc?
Thanks in advance!

    I had steel wheels powder coated by a highly-recommended company.  The powder coating cracked and chipped, especially by the tire company taking no care at all putting tires on.  I don't consider mine a success.
Bruce H; Wallace (near Wilmington) NC
1976 Daimler (British) Double-Decker Bus; 34' long

(New Email -- brucebearnc@ (theGoogle gmail place) .com)

Boomer

You can buy new powder coated wheels for in the 80 buck range (chinese) and Accuride for around 110.00.  I wouldn't waste my money coating wheels that old.  Better yet you can find good used aluminum Alcoa's for around 150.00 and they will balance a lot easier than the steel.
'81 Eagle 15/45, NO MORE
'47 GM PD3751-438, NO MORE
'65 Crown Atomic, NO MORE
'48 Kenworth W-1 highway coach, NO MORE
'93 Vogue IV, NO MORE
1964 PD4106-2846
North Idaho USA

luvrbus

The powder coating flakes off the China made wheels. steel wheels are made in 2 pieces then welded together they flex to much for the powder coating to last  go with Boomers recommendation then you don't have the noise covers either 
Life is short drink the good wine first

chessie4905

   I just talked to a guy that can powder coat about anything. He wanted about 100 bucks a wheel to do them. He said that he'd only charge 50 bucks if I sand blasted and cleaned them. I decided to forget it, even though they would look great. How are you going to mount the tires without chipping them even with great care. I'm just going to go with aluminum.
GMC h8h 649#028 (4905)
Pennsylvania-central

lvmci

Hi All, simulators (hub caps) look good, but give you a lot.of.greif. noises sounds like so many serious problems, but they are just the simulators flexing, thanks Clifford and guys, for all your advice, tom, lvmci...
MCI 102C3 8V92, Allison HT740
Formally MCI5A 8V71 Allison MT643
Brandon has really got it going!

Charles in SC

I went by my tire place today and they told me powder coating the wheels was a 10 day turn around and they charge $25 per wheel. I like the idea of the Alcoas but want I have to change my lug nuts? I was thinking the aluminum wheels were thicker.
S8M 5303 built in 1969, converted in 2000

luvrbus

You just have to change the front studs only they sell longer nuts for the duals on the rear fwiw oops I see you have hub piloted wheels you would need to change the rear also
Life is short drink the good wine first

dukegrad98

I've powdercoated several sets of automobile wheels, but never a bus/truck wheel. 

I've never once had a problem with flaking, peeling, or cracking.  Prep is everything.  That stuff finishes up as hard as paint, maybe harder -- I even used PC on an entire car tube chassis one time.  Anyway...I pull my wheels on and off for rotations, balances, and tire replacements without a worry.  I usually pay my local shop about $75/wheel, including strip and prep of whatever was on there before.  (That's for much smaller wheels, obviously!)

Cheers, John

bevans6

I'd go with sandblasting and a few cans of Krylon, or the Accuride steel wheels.  OTOH, I am very cheap.  $100 a wheel would be lux for me... 8)

Brian
1980 MCI MC-5C, 8V-71T from a M-110 self propelled howitzer
Allison MT-647
Tatamagouche, Nova Scotia

gus

I lightly clean my steel wheels with 3M abrasive and soapy water, treat any rust with rust converter, and paint with white epoxy appliance enamel.

Do the same with the Al wheels which are a big pain in the rear when trying to check tire press on rear duals. I'm down to the last two Al wheels and won't shed a tear when they corrode and start to leak.
PD4107-152
PD4104-1274
Ash Flat, AR

thekid745

I would go in the direction of getting some used Aluminum Alcoa wheels. Great looks and balances well. Plus you can always polish them to look new. I think in the long run its money better spent.

Boomer

Checking the inside pressure on an aluminum wheel is no harder than a steel one if you use the correct stem extension and rubber plug isolator that fits in the hole.
'81 Eagle 15/45, NO MORE
'47 GM PD3751-438, NO MORE
'65 Crown Atomic, NO MORE
'48 Kenworth W-1 highway coach, NO MORE
'93 Vogue IV, NO MORE
1964 PD4106-2846
North Idaho USA

Connel

Central Oklahoma

Refuse to have a battle of wits with an unarmed person.

NewbeeMC9

Spray can bed liner.  Get from otter zone or advance parts.  If you want to do them yourself.  Smooth finish cleans up easy.  Mine are in white.  Sprayed a borrowed set one time after just wire brushing.
It's all fun and games til someone gets hurt. ;)