Heating the bus

harleyman_1000 · August 23, 2014, 01:36:21 PM

I know it is over a hundred degrees here in St Louis today, but it will be cold soon enough. I was looking into adding heat strips to my 2 ac units, and came across these.

http://www.eheat.com/categories/Wall-Mounted-Electric-Panel-Heaters/

I was wondering if anyone has used them? All the reviews seem to be good on them. They are the same amount for direct wire or the ones that come with a plug.

treeplanter · August 23, 2014, 01:41:37 PM

http://warmwaves.com/ This is new technology.

eagle19952 · August 23, 2014, 02:17:12 PM

Quote from: harleyman_1000 on August 23, 2014, 01:36:21 PM
I know it is over a hundred degrees here in St Louis today, but it will be cold soon enough. I was looking into adding heat strips to my 2 ac units, and came across these.

http://www.eheat.com/categories/Wall-Mounted-Electric-Panel-Heaters/

I was wondering if anyone has used them? All the reviews seem to be good on them. They are the same amount for direct wire or the ones that come with a plug.

$139.00 for....Power Consumption: 475 Watts of heat....i don't think so...
two 5$ heat lamps will do that...
or you can get a half dozen cube heaters..... I've never needed more than two, but have used 3 cuz I'm extravagant and my wife is an ice cube..

Jriddle · August 23, 2014, 07:03:40 PM

Quote from: harleyman_1000 on August 23, 2014, 01:36:21 PM
I know it is over a hundred degrees here in St Louis today, but it will be cold soon enough. I was looking into adding heat strips to my 2 ac units, and came across these.
[

I have heat strips in my A/C units. IMO they are like pissing in the wind. In other words they don't work very well.

John

luvrbus · August 23, 2014, 08:02:21 PM

I have a heat strip I was thinking it was 5600 btu or 1500 watts it works fairly good with the fan on low on high not so good, as the air heats up inside it gets better

lornaschinske · August 23, 2014, 09:19:48 PM

Fulltime in Central NM. It gets very cold here in the winter (snow, ice, sleet and single digit temps). We use electric heat (two fan forced 1500 watts Patton Utility heaters $20 each from Wal-Mart, usually overnight only), a Tag-a-long LP heater we've had for many years (wall-mounted in the bathroom area that can also heat the bedroom if need be), a vent-free LP gas log fireplace insert. At night, we have a heated mattress pad (not electric blanket... a pad that we sleep on top of) on our bed as we like to keep the room pretty cool. One winter, while we were planning the conversion, Albuquerque lost power due to a huge winter storm. It was out in some places for over two weeks. We have lived in other places where the power has gone out anywhere from a few hours to a week. We do not want to be dependant solely on electric heat. That is why we have both electric and LP options. We also let sunshine in during the day which helps warm the bus up as well. We have a portion of our site rental goes towards electric. If we go over that amount, we have to make up the difference. We don't go over. We have found that electric space heaters don't work all that great when the temps get below 20F and/or the wind is blowing hard. But the LP fireplace (thermostatically controlled) keeps us warm. The LP heater in the bathroom is great to just heat the bath area for showers and getting dressed in the morning.

solodon · August 23, 2014, 09:43:27 PM

I looked at the web site, and every thing shows installation in the floor. I had a house that had electric radiant in the ceiling. The house was always comfortable, and the only place that was "cold" was under the desk, as the radiant didn't get down there. Seems that this material could be very good but I think that in the ceiling or possibly on the walls the radiation is straight line and would work either way. Ceiling would probably be best though. Waiting for those more knowledgeable to tell me where I'm wrong.

solodon · August 23, 2014, 09:59:04 PM

Spent this past winter (one of the coldest in recent history in Indiana) in a 8'x24.5' fifth wheel camper. Used 2 utility electric heaters and when it got sub zero added a small Mr. Heater to the mix to take the rest of the chill off when I was awake. Would relight the heater in the morning only if I needed it. Was comfortable (low to mid 60's) during the coldest part of the winter and the two electric kept 70 once above 20 degrees. The camper was made in 1984 and I'm sure the insulation is the best to be had (hahahaha). I did skirt the trailer before winter and found that helped a lot. The floor never really got that cold either. I think that by the time I'm done insulating the bus (floor, walls and ceiling), it'll be very comfortable (I hope).

TomC · August 23, 2014, 10:44:45 PM

The single 35,000btu Atwood propane heater works quite well. It only takes a run of 3-4 minutes to warm up the bus. When at the power pole will use one or two space heaters. All three of my roof top airs (Colemans) have heat strips. The trick is to close the vents off to slow the air down, then they work pretty well. Also have an electric wall heater in the bathroom wired through the inverter.
My going down the road heater is the original heater radiator (5ft X 18") that is mounted under my cabinets on the floor in the hallway with two 14" 12v radiator fans powering it. When it kicks on, you can count to 10 then feel the heat up front. The front defroster is still hooked up-many times just turning on the water with the air coming in with the motion of the bus is enough to keep it warm inside when driving. Good Luck, TomC

harleyman_1000 · August 24, 2014, 10:55:06 AM

Quote from: TomC on August 23, 2014, 10:44:45 PM
The single 35,000btu Atwood propane heater works quite well. It only takes a run of 3-4 minutes to warm up the bus. When at the power pole will use one or two space heaters. All three of my roof top airs (Colemans) have heat strips. The trick is to close the vents off to slow the air down, then they work pretty well. Also have an electric wall heater in the bathroom wired through the inverter.
My going down the road heater is the original heater radiator (5ft X 18") that is mounted under my cabinets on the floor in the hallway with two 14" 12v radiator fans powering it. When it kicks on, you can count to 10 then feel the heat up front. The front defroster is still hooked up-many times just turning on the water with the air coming in with the motion of the bus is enough to keep it warm inside when driving. Good Luck, TomC

When you say to close the vents off, do you mean the vent that goes to the roof vent blower fan, or the directional vents on the inside?

harleyman_1000 · August 24, 2014, 11:04:33 AM

How can I tell if my colman units are ducted? This is a picture of the units that I

have.http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m6FW8dJI4ie3tPK_0Adp03g.jpg

I know that most of you say the heat strips are worthless, but for 44.00 a piece, and not having to worry about a space heater while I'm sleeping I think I am going to install them. I'm having trouble figuring out which heat strip to order. I'm not sure which units I have? I think mine are the low profile units. Mine has ceiling assembly 67698714 and were made August 6th 1985. I have read everything on the units and can't find anywhere what btu they are? Do any of you know about my units?

luvrbus · August 24, 2014, 11:18:49 AM

non ducted that is the upper unit for a Coleman Mach 13.500 btu for 44 bucks does include the new switch.I personally like my heat strips as Tom C says restrictive air flow is the key

harleyman_1000 · August 24, 2014, 12:10:14 PM

Quote from: luvrbus on August 24, 2014, 11:18:49 AM
non ducted that is the upper unit for a Coleman Mach 13.500 btu for 44 bucks does include the new switch.I personally like my heat strips as Tom C says restrictive air flow is the key

Do I need to replace both switches? Meaning I know the switch on the left has to be replaced so that it has the heat switch, but do I also need to replace the switch on the right that controls how cool it blows?

TomC · August 24, 2014, 09:28:38 PM

My A/C's are non ducted Coleman's. I close off the front and rear louver on the A/C to slow down the air on heater. The fan runs on low (which on a Coleman is more like medium) when on heat. Works well if you give it time to work-but in the meantime you have to put up with swirling cold air while it warms up. Good Luck, TomC

harleyman_1000 · August 25, 2014, 08:21:19 AM

Quote from: luvrbus on August 24, 2014, 11:18:49 AM
non ducted that is the upper unit for a Coleman Mach 13.500 btu for 44 bucks does include the new switch.I personally like my heat strips as Tom C says restrictive air flow is the key

I called Coleman, and they say the heat strips are no longer available for my unit? After I ask if anyone sold aftermarket heat strips for my units, he said no, and that I might find some in a rv salvage yard. He said the new heat strips would not hook up(wiring) or mount correctly. My question is has anyone else had this issue with Coleman telling them this? I am thinking that maybe Coleman just wanted me to buy new units? Any information on where to find heat strips that will work would be greatly appreciated.