Getting under a bus

Cosmo · July 05, 2014, 07:25:49 AM

What is the safest way to get under a bus? I'm wanting to get to that thick rubber piece that hangs down (mine is missing) between the rear axle and motor. I'm needing to remove all those bolts to get the torn piece out and to put a new piece in. I have a 6 ton and 20 ton bottle jack, removed the rear wheels once, so I know the jacks work. Just different to crawl all the way under and to be there for awhile. Any suggestions? Thanks

Emcemv · July 05, 2014, 07:34:16 AM

I crank my air up in the bags to get the bus as high as I can then I have some 6x6 blocking I use to put under it. I can work pretty well under it without jacking. Mine has adjustable air to the bags so I can raise/lower it pretty well.

Most important is don't get under it without some substantial blocking.

bevans6 · July 05, 2014, 07:44:06 AM

Make some run-up ramps 6" to 8" tall, drive the bus up on them, then use jack stands or wooden blocks under the body support hard-point (check your manual). That should get you high enough.

Brian

Cary and Don · July 05, 2014, 08:07:00 AM

It also adds to the safety to put blocks between the body and the frame at the point the body will settle down when all the air is out of it. There are rubber pads there. We also use run up blocks. A lot more trust worthy than a jack that could fail.

Don and Cary

sparkplug188 · July 05, 2014, 09:03:59 AM

I use 20 ton jacks and 20 ton jack stands positioned under the axles. IMO jacks and jack stands should be sold as a pair. One isn't safe without the other.

Cosmo · July 05, 2014, 12:34:29 PM

A lot of good suggestions! There was man recently crushed by his truck down in OKC, not my idea of a way to go. I agree with you spark plug, they should sell Jack stands with jacks, just good business there. I'm going to cut myself a couple 8" drive up blocks. Really only need to lift one side to do the work that I need to do, wife said I could dig hole. LMAO

BRUISER · July 05, 2014, 02:02:16 PM

I bought 4 railroad ties. Cut and angle at the end of and secured two together to each other and to the ground. Now I can back the bus up on them and the rear is about 6" or so off the ground.

gus · July 05, 2014, 03:29:41 PM

I NEVER get under a bus unless the wheels are on blocks, no jack is that trustworthy.

Always block the suspension too, as already posted. Don't trust the air bags.

Dave5Cs · July 05, 2014, 03:37:21 PM

Says in the manual not to lift just one side it can tweak the frame and or body. I get my air bags as high as they will go. backup or drive up on my 2 ramps 8 inches by 31 inches long. Block the wheels. Put 4inch steel blocks in between the bump stops for extra safety that way it can not drop down. I also buildup 4x6's flat with 3/4 inch ply between each layer under the jacking points that it shows in the books. I use 20 ton air over bottle jacks and 12 ton air over if needed to go higher under axles and then keep building with the blocking and ply. I never put anything under the Body because it says in the books that if it comes down at all the body will bend. Only at jacking points and bulkheads, axles etc.

Dave5Cs

TomC · July 06, 2014, 04:38:46 PM

Make run up blocks out of 2x8's. I have four stacked and is high enough to get my fat belly under when the air suspension is deflated (I have manual and automatic control). Then if something does happen and the air suspension suddenly deflates, you're still safe. Good Luck, TomC

brmax · July 06, 2014, 07:07:45 PM

If I was doing this again ?>though happy with the 2x10 style I made 4 of from pictures of others before me, Anyhow I would suggest taking a trip to your local landscape place and see if they have some new treated oak 8x8 or 6x6's I think this would be a great thing and cheaper than what I did. If possible a new rail road tie with not much creosote couldn't be beat, but finding one goodluck.
Good Day

Jim Eh. · July 06, 2014, 08:55:41 PM

My life is worth more than what these cost me. https://www.google.ca/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&docid=Jrp4mGsEl2OjRM&tbnid=nF61zb3Erfs4rM:&ved=0CAUQjRw&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.acklandsgrainger.com%2FAGIPortalWeb%2FWebSource%2FProductDisplay%2FglobalProductDetailDisplay.do%3Fitem_code%3DWSWTR20W&ei=whm6U9TRLYqNyATJr4LACw&bvm=bv.70138588,d.aWw&psig=AFQjCNHtorsprjvzo0ud67ZpXP6QqKnH-Q&ust=1404791616755411

Not too portable out from the shop mind you ...

BRUISER · July 07, 2014, 12:42:42 PM

I found pics of mine

took 4 railroad ties and then used the chainsaw to cut an angle to drive up on them.. worked great.

Nineforever · July 08, 2014, 09:36:11 PM

Run up blocks are the way to go , big enough to handle some weight small enough to man handle and fit into one of your luggage bays .
I've been in and around busses for a long time but still learning
Do we really need to have run up blocks under both tires on the drive , to be honest ive never bothered

grantgoold · July 09, 2014, 06:10:46 AM

The only really safe method is using a pit! Since those are difficult to find or build, I would crib the frame in several places using only railroad ties bolted together with all thread. Then I would have a set of cribbing that is a back up should the first set fail. I would also have a 20 ton jack set up and under the bus, ready to handle the weight as a third safety feature. Finally, I would never work under the bus alone. Always have someone ready to take emergency action with the jacks or 911. Again, a pit is the best option! I know, that is the pits!