Skinning. Tell me why I should or shouldn't please.

wdtjawshwdt · April 05, 2014, 08:19:30 PM

I was fortunate enough to get a deal on .09 aluminum sheet. They are 5x10 sheets and I have four of them. This is for the MC9. Now the predicament is....I have the options to do 8 windows and just use the sheets as they are no cutting or 10 windows with waste. I don't really care how many windows I have. I have 5 large RV windows that will be going in this project. I need swaying one way or the other.

diagram time that may not make sense
XX=1 window
[_]=1 window

8 window option is a 4 sheet option
__________________
each side would lose these windows driver/passenger [] [_]XXXX[_]XXXX[_] \
l'-O------------------OO l
10 window option is cutting it down to 10 sheets

Blocking out all the middle windows leaving the front and rears on both sides
__________________
[] [_]XXXXXXXXXX[_] \
l'-O-----------------OO- l

Well my busses turned out pretty good for typing them out...took me way to long to do this guys

Barn Owl · April 05, 2014, 09:21:52 PM

I like light and and I feel it gives conversions a more open feel vs. a dark cave. So I am for option one. On old classic buses I like all of the windows left in it even if they are blocked internally. Vintage, classic, cool....

wdtjawshwdt · April 05, 2014, 09:56:56 PM

I became jaded on the windows...because right now i have spent the past 2 weekends welding structure back into place. Sooo I am a little bitter and getting rid of some of them...they are leaky bastards I tell ya.

bevans6 · April 06, 2014, 05:34:22 AM

If I were going to skin the sides on an MC-9 it would be an all or nothing deal. No OEM windows left at all, just RV windows. So I would buy another sheet of aluminium and do it all, then install my RV windows with appropriate framing where I wanted them. 090" is a great choice, and you can cut it wasily on a regular table saw with a wood blade, just have a helper, ear protection and a face mask, not just goggles.

Brian

Scott & Heather · April 06, 2014, 07:20:41 AM

Quote from: bevans6 on April 06, 2014, 05:34:22 AM
If I were going to skin the sides on an MC-9 it would be an all or nothing deal. No OEM windows left at all, just RV windows. So I would buy another sheet of aluminium and do it all, then install my RV windows with appropriate framing where I wanted them. 090" is a great choice, and you can cut it wasily on a regular table saw with a wood blade, just have a helper, ear protection and a face mask, not just goggles.

Brian

ditto. if you're ever considering living in it full-time, you'll hate yourself for keeping the old glass. Single pane, leaky, and hot in the summer, cold and condensation in the winter. Our coach is purpose-built to withstand temperature extremes and it does this well. We've seen -18 this past winter with wind chills well below that, and the coach has seen 105 two summers ago. 1 rooftop a/c, three space heaters inside...shes good.

TomC · April 06, 2014, 09:00:23 AM

Commercial trailers typically use .030 aluminum skin. With that in mind, I had my truck skinned in .060. .090 is really thick-do you want to be carrying that extra weight all the time? Good luck, TomC

wdtjawshwdt · April 06, 2014, 09:04:26 AM

I feel like I want to keep two windows one front and one back to get stuff in and out. :-p But you guys are getting me to lean towards getting two more sheets $95 a piece isn't bad just didn't expect to spend that much on the outside. I am rebuilding walls with bed frame and pallet racking now. So take larger sheets and cover the windows. Dont bother cutting the large sheets into 5x3 sections and covering each window individually?

TomC · April 06, 2014, 09:25:00 AM

To fill in the windows, I cut two 3/4" plywood to fill in the window glued together which brought the level of the plywood even with the outside skin of the bus. Then used .030" aluminum skin glued and riveted over. Works well (for the last 20yrs) and looks good. Good Luck, TomC

bevans6 · April 06, 2014, 12:41:13 PM

.090" is what I seem to recall the stock aluminium sides and roof of an MCI is. They used a heat-treated aluminium, not full hard but around a T-4, I think. I can't recall where I read that.

Brian

wdtjawshwdt · April 06, 2014, 01:18:56 PM

The skinning thing seems like a trick. Many options from the research on the forum and it sounds like most people went with thicker is better (or wished they went thicker) for the aluminum. The other is people wished they would have used a large single piece of aluminum per side (out of my price range). The larger the piece of aluminum the more structural it will be. This has probably been the hardest decision since starting this project. Everything else has been reactionary.

With the thickness of the aluminum i am using should I back it with plywood like Tom C?

Many different ways to skin a cat.

Tikvah · April 06, 2014, 02:17:22 PM

That little bit of wight is negligible, the heavier the sheet, the less wave (oil-canning) you'll have from the heat. Put it on in hot weather with direct sunlight, and if possible use a LP weed burner inside. Use some kind of protection between the steel and the aluminum. Not a bad job. Did mine with two boys and myself. Did it all in two days with more rivets than I can remember. Bought an air rivet gun from Harbor Freight. Cheap, fast and done right. Buy some welding gloves, some vice grips, and lots of ice water.

Windows depends on weather. I wish I had double pane because I wish I could stay up north in the winter like Scott. I'm envious of his set up. But, if you plan to be in hot or mild locations, and you have good AC, then the stock windows might be fine. The slider aftermarket windows are $$$.

Spray Foam - I didn't have any money (Still don't), but I found a way to do some horse trading for a truck mounted spray foam project. No regrets. I can't tell you how many times I said "I'm glad I did that right". Not like you can go back and do that again. (Besides, I didn't need that horse in my bus anyway!

)

Everyone that comes in our bus says it has a lot of light and they always seem to like it. You can see pics of the inside at: http://dave-amy.com/bus-tour,-april-2014.html

Good luck on the project

luvrbus · April 06, 2014, 02:52:23 PM

Aluminum will wave like old glory with heat steel is by far the best for no waves

Tikvah · April 06, 2014, 02:53:58 PM

Quote from: luvrbus on April 06, 2014, 02:52:23 PM
Aluminum will wave like old glory with heat steel is by far the best for no waves

I have so few opportunities to disagree with luvrbus that I thought I should jump at the chance. My aluminum hasn't waved a bit. I heated when it went on, and did it on a hot day. No problems.

luvrbus · April 06, 2014, 03:10:30 PM

Come to Az and watch it wave lol your bus is white and not as noticeable.I skinned the Eagle with 1 piece of steel from front to rear with no rivets it all depends on what you are looking for in the finished product I wanted no rivets

gumpy · April 06, 2014, 05:24:35 PM

Quote from: wdtjawshwdt on April 06, 2014, 09:04:26 AM
.... just didn't expect to spend that much on the outside.

HaHaHaHaHaHaHaHaHaHaHaHaHaHaHaHaHaHaHaHaHaHaHaHaHaHaHaHaHaHa !!!!!!!!!!!!

Oh sorry, was that out loud?