Weird Sound? No charge? - Page 3
 

Weird Sound? No charge?

Started by Bryan, February 16, 2014, 01:25:45 PM

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gus

If you mean generic toggle switches they are found anywhere, WM, auto parts, hardware & etc. There are some cheapos out there though, maybe some not worth installing.

Make sure you don't try to run too many amps through those long wires and small switches, better to use cube relays found anywhere also.

VR= voltage regulator. I tend to abbreviate a lot since typing is not my favorite sport!
PD4107-152
PD4104-1274
Ash Flat, AR

Bryan

I looked up the part number for the switches that replace what's already in the bus like the factory ones, and they were $50-$75 each. EXPENSIVE SWITCHES! I was able to use one of the switches from another spot that wasn't being used anymore, and I swapped them out. I installed some halogen lights to the back of the bus for reverse lights, I ran those to one of those switches. You are saying I should use a cube relay for those correct? I noticed that there was a whole volt lost on the wire when I turned the switch on. Do you think that is due to it running thru the small switch?

Also, I had to jump the bus off tonight because I left the battery on to long while working with the lights. How many volts does it take to start the bus? I had 11.6 volts when I measured it with a voltage reader right on the battery. Thanks!  :)
Bryan
1996 Prevost XL
1967 PD4107
Toccoa, GA

luvrbus

Volts mean nothing AMPS are needed (900) for a 12 volt starter at least 
Life is short drink the good wine first

pvcces

Bryon,

For a liquid lead acid battery, 11.6 volts at rest means it's fully discharged.

That battery, when fully charged and at rest will run about 12.7 volts.

These numbers are for 77 degrees F. Voltage will vary a lot with big temperature changes. I agree with Cliff; allow for lots of current (amps) while cranking the engine if you want to avoid burning something up. Rebuilders consider weak batteries a major cause of starter failure.

Get those batteries a good charge!

Tom Caffrey
Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576
Suncatcher
Ketchikan, Alaska

zubzub

in answer to your question re voltage drop on the 30'+ of wire....that is why you use cube relays....the switch at dash is low voltage.oops.I mean ampage!. ie only controls the relay....then at the back of the bus were the batteries are you tap off a nice thick lead of "+" charge and use that as the load supply to you reverse lights in this case.   Unless u want torun big fat wires to the back....or want to have lectric fires do a little research online vis a vis automotive wiring and u will learn what u need to know.   alot of the bus people here know this stuff so well that they wont answer the really simple stuff.  but the info is out there.

gus

Well, as luvrbus said, it is the amps that are the problem on those long runs through small switches.

High amps, long runs, high resistance = heat = smoke/fire.
PD4107-152
PD4104-1274
Ash Flat, AR