Need repairs in Indianapolis

[Gordie Allen]

Well you guys are the experts and I respect that.  I'm going to give another shot at greasing it and head west.  I shift without the clutch so the only issue is starting from total stop.  Interstates all the way.  Clifford, I was not trying to be bullheaded or anything, just trying to get a grip on the situation.  I'm all for pushing on and not getting ripped off.  If you're still willing to look at it, I'd be grateful.  We were supposed to be in San Mateo by the 28th to see the grandkids.  Do you think I can make it that far and catch you on the return if your offer is still on the table?

[Scott Crosby]

Probably no one more qualified than luvrbus to do that work.

Don it's going great.  The liners are like new, with tons of crosss hatching and the rings look great with wear grooves that look like new too.  Nearly every valve was leaking but it was just from crud falling In between them.  Most of the valves had leaking guide seals and that provided plenty of crud and goo up top to be available to fall into the valves.  but the head surfaces are amazing, they just needed some light cleaning.  I ground all the valves and replaced the seals.  The blower seals were shot so i rebuilt the blower.   The engine wear wise looks to have very few hours on it, but the sitting didn't do it any favors.   The project is being documented very good on the other site if you would like to join and follow it.  The blower was a nasty surprise.  Heads will go back on as soon as I get back from Arcadia.   

[Gary LaBombard]

Gordie,
Hopefully your flywheel is machinable, mine was not and also had to be replaced, the cheapest price I was quoted for flywheel only is from $500 -$2000 depending upon the engine serial number I was told by dd dealer here???  Stupid but the cheapest was the $500 for just flywheel.  No labor included. The rear seal is $108, need new flywheel bolts, new camshaft bolts, all case hardened and special, no idea how much the Throw out bearing cost yet, maybe $50 but just a guess.  This is just parts!!  Plus mark up for repair shop of 100%.  

If you do as Clifford says and help him do the labor part I am sure he will get you out maybe in a week, I am sure he will do all he can to accommodate you and you doing your part of cleaning and helping every bit you can will sure speed up the process.  You have a hell of a decision I am sure but saving  the big money and getting the job done right is probably worth the thought & decision process, drive slow,(55mph) shift as few times as you can and you will have someone on the end of this awful repair journey just waiting to do his best to help you.  Keep us all informed of your decisions and your progress getting there, we all hope the best for you I am sure. It is almost Christmas Day in a few minutes, Merry Christmas as well Gordy and family.  good luck.
Gary

[B_K]

Gordie,
I'd take Clifford up on his offer. He'll not only give you expert advice but he'll teach you the proper way to do the repair and many other things along the way. (he said he'd help ya, not do it for ya!)
And I can guarantee you that he'll only have you replacing what needs replaced and no extras to line his pocket.
And on that note he said he's sure there are parts left over some GM nut left laying around. And I can assure you that any parts needed that aren't laying around his shop, he'll know someone who does have them laying around.

I'd say load up roll out and worst case scenario is it lets go between here and there. Gives you 1 of 3 options.
#1. Have it towed directly to Clifford's and help him (If it goes before ya make it to San Mateo  it on ahead & catch up w/it and then help him w/it)
#2. Bite the BULLET and pay to have it fixed there where it breaks.
#3. Find a busnut near where ya break down to help ya find parts and fix it there.

Now all that said first thing I'd do is make sure you have "Coachnet" "GoodSam" or other towing insurance paid up and in force before it breaks and then even if it does go chances are you'll be able to get the biggest part of the tow bill paid even taking it to Clifford's. (one angle in your favor here is many shops don't know how or want to work on old buses and you can tell them he's the only one you've found willing to work on it that you KNOW has a good reputation for knowing what he's doing!)
  BK 

[chessie4905]

   Clifford will then be reinforced with the knowledge of the benefit of owning a GMC coach when it needs a clutch, compared to the OTHER brands......  Our 4104 had a replaceable wear surface on it's flywheel. Don't know if a new one is still available.

[Gordie Allen]

We're heading to CA.  Hoping Clifford's offer is still good.  I think even if it breaks down, I'd be better off spending the money to get it hauled to Cliffords.  Hauling may be costly, but I know what's at the end. 

[Gordie Allen]

B_K,
We've got Good Sam's Premium plan.  Coachnet said they weren't covering anything older than '76.

[Utahclaimjumper]

 The throwout bearing is  prelubed and sealed, when it go's away it will start squeeling until it freezes up and then the release fingers will be ruined. Catch it before then and you may not have to replace the pressure plate or any other parts, you will not know until you pull the transmission and look. Removing and replacing  the trans is the time consuming part.>>>Dan  ( You will also need a pilot shaft the reinstall the trans)

[chessie4905]

   They're not that bad to r and r. A good adjustable trans jack, keep it parallel to housing, place trans into gear and try to slightly rotate output shaft back and forth till it engages the splines. The pilot end will enter pilot bearing if you make sure the gap top and bottom and side to side between trans bell housing and engine housing is nearly exactly the same.  Too many just eye ball it and have problems. Also center clutch disc exactly on flywheel before fully  tightening pressure plate bolts. I always snugged them just enough to keep disc from moving under its own weight and lightly bumped the disc it till the gap or space was exactly the same the whole way around as I rotated the flywheel by hand. If you use a dummy shaft, remember the slight up and down slop and set the disc location midpoint between up and down play. I always found the r and r of the drive shaft connection was the biggest pain with 8 fine thread flange bolts and wire or self locking nuts. some have to be loosened with a manual wrench instead of air tools. While you are at this, check the u joints closely for wear or bad bearings. They are surprisingly inexpensive for their size

[luvrbus]

Gordie, when you land PM me your number

good luck

[RJ]

Gordie -

Just a couple hours NE from San Mateo is Ted Campbell's place in Williams, CA, along I-5.

Ted's probably forgotten more about GMC buses than Clifford's learned (JK, Cliff!!), he's the West Coast equivalent to Luke.

Works from 4-5 pm until the wee hours of the morning. www.coachmaintenance.com is his website w/ contact info.  Best to email or fax first.

Most likely, like Luke, will have all the parts necessary in stock.

JC -

Since Gordie's coach is a GMC, it's a V-drive, and the transmission can be easily pulled w/o pulling the engine - unlike the MCI's you're familiar with.

FWIW & HTH. . .

[Utahclaimjumper]

 Also, unlike the MCI, a trans jack is nearly useless with a GM. You need a cherry picker to hang the trans from the top with straps or chain, the trans mainshaft must clear the clutch fingers about the same time as the "V" part exits the hole in the firewall. A tricky twist is needed to clear everything and a jack from the bottom will not allow this.>>>Dan

[chessie4905]

   A heavy duty trans jack works fine if you make a simple bracket to attach to the rear(output end) since the bottom isn't flat.

[Utahclaimjumper]

  Well Gordie is going to find out isn't he??>>>D

[Gordie Allen]

Just west of Oklahoma City.  Greased the bearing this morning. I don't think any more will help. I'm gradually loosing clutch release. I assume from wear on the fingers. I took all the slack out of the rear control rod plus about two inches by putting a 3/8 deep socket over the threaded end and against the nut at the bottom of the threads. I can now disengage the clutch but there's an awful shudder for a dead stop which I am avoiding at all costs. I'm hoping the fingers will hold out the last 900 miles to Needles. If not I'll have to get it hauled the rest of the way. All it takes is money!!