Air compressor stopped suddenly

Sam 4106 · July 08, 2013, 09:04:29 AM

Scott,

I live at La Crescent, MN but my comment about someone helping was made tongue in cheek. I got up early this morning and got the coolant drained and some of the lines off before my medical appointments. I will get back at the job after lunch. It looks like the worst part will be getting to some of the mounting bolts and putting them back will be even harder. I enjoy challenges, so this is just another one. My neighbor is good about giving me a hand when needed so that helps too. I will take your advise about getting a new unloader kit. I just hope I don't need a rebuilt compressor.

Thanks for your help, Sam

Oonrahnjay · July 08, 2013, 11:05:24 AM

Quote from: Sam 4106 on July 08, 2013, 09:04:29 AMI just hope I don't need a rebuilt compressor.
Thanks for your help, Sam

Clifford's suggestion that absolutely NO air build up points towards a drive problem sure makes sense to me. I'm hoping that a new key and properly torqued shaft nut will fix it up for you.

Sam 4106 · July 08, 2013, 05:14:19 PM

I got the compressor off and found the problem. It is a drive problem, but not a sheared key. The drive coupling on the compressor is made of a bakelite like material around a steel center, with a key slot, that goes on the crankshaft. The coupling is slipping where the bakelite part was attached to the steel center. It took me about 3 hours to remove the compressor from the engine after I had the coolant drained. One bolt and one coolant line were a bitch to get out. Otherwise not too bad. I will make a couple of modifications to make it easier to put those items back together. I will use two short studs to help align the compressor with the gear housing once it is in place. I called Curt at Central Truck and he has the coupling. Hopefully I can get everything back together so we can take the bus to a Midwest Bus Nuts rally on Friday.

Thanks everyone for your thoughts, Sam

Jriddle · July 08, 2013, 05:50:28 PM

Did you find all the pieces of bakelite? That may not be good inside engine.

John

Sam 4106 · July 08, 2013, 06:18:56 PM

John,

The bakelite is intact except where it contacts the steel hub's splines. It seems to be worn smooth as if the internal splines of the bakelite sheared off from the center hub. There is only a small amount of residue inside the bakelite coupler. The engine ran only a short time after the compressor quit pumping air. Its almost time for an oil change anyway so I think I will change it after I get the compressor back on. Or at least have the oil analyzed.

Thanks, Sam

Scott Crosby · July 08, 2013, 06:35:24 PM

I think I read once that those drive gears come with different number of teeth so you may want to research that or make sure the one you get is correct. I might be wrong but thought it was worth a mention.

gumpy · July 08, 2013, 07:52:27 PM

Quote from: luvrbus on July 07, 2013, 02:02:16 PM
Sam they don't have a fiber gear you probably sheared the key on the compressor drive would be my guess if it is making no air period they will always produce some air if turning

Mine had a fiber gear. The compressor seized on I-70 in Kansas a few years ago and broke the gear into a few pieces.

gumpy · July 08, 2013, 07:58:36 PM

Quote from: Sam 4106 on July 08, 2013, 06:18:56 PM
The bakelite is intact except where it contacts the steel hub's splines. It seems to be worn smooth as if the internal splines of the bakelite sheared off from the center hub.

Umm, you might want to make sure your compressor still turns before you put a new gear on it and reinstall it. The gears break because the compressor locks up.

luvrbus · July 08, 2013, 08:06:43 PM

Yours must be a 71 series Craig most of those had the fiber gear drive the 92's have a steel drive gear with the coated spline coupling you guys from Mn must be tough on compressor drives John Z lost one in Texas a few years back

gumpy · July 09, 2013, 02:23:47 PM

Quote from: luvrbus on July 08, 2013, 08:06:43 PM
Yours must be a 71 series Craig most of those had the fiber gear drive the 92's have a steel drive gear with the coated spline coupling you guys from Mn must be tough on compressor drives John Z lost one in Texas a few years back

6V92

Pretty sure Sam's is a 92 series, too.

luvrbus · July 09, 2013, 03:16:22 PM

I think we are talking about 2 different things here Craig I call the the drive gear the one that bolts to camshaft 4 bolts sorta of square the coupling goes into never saw a fiber drive on 92 series but anything is possible on these buses

The old Detroit's in a GM that drive was fiber so if it broke and fell on the gears no harm was done power steering pumps (Vickers) still use fiber flex coupling you find those in oil pans all the time with ground fibers nothing to be alarmed about it's by design

Sam 4106 · July 09, 2013, 05:29:57 PM

When I was cleaning parts and bolts, I noticed that the mounting bolt threads have some type of sealant on them. Any suggestions as to what type sealant to use when I reinstall the bolts? I will be putting the compressor back in tomorrow.

Thanks, Sam

gumpy · July 09, 2013, 08:22:32 PM

Quote from: luvrbus on July 09, 2013, 03:16:22 PM
I think we are talking about 2 different things here Craig I call the the drive gear the one that bolts to camshaft 4 bolts sorta of square the coupling goes into never saw a fiber drive on 92 series but anything is possible on these buses

The old Detroit's in a GM that drive was fiber so if it broke and fell on the gears no harm was done power steering pumps (Vickers) still use fiber flex coupling you find those in oil pans all the time with ground fibers nothing to be alarmed about it's by design

Ok. I was referring to the gear on the compressor side. That's what broke on mine when the compressor seized.

Lee Bradley · July 10, 2013, 09:52:16 AM

Sam,
I use Loctite Blue medium strength.

Sam 4106 · July 10, 2013, 10:57:59 AM

Thanks Lee,

I already had the compressor installed before I read your message. I used a Permatex product as a thread sealer since I didn't know if what was on the threads was a sealer or to prevent the bolts from loosening. The product I used should do both, as would loctite. The label is worn off the tube so I'm not sure exactly what it is, but it is red. I was able to get all but 1 gallon of coolant back into the system, so I must have an air bubble in there somewhere. I bled some air out the petcock on top of the thermostat housing. I will warm the engine up and see if the coolant level drops so I can get the last gallon in. Otherwise putting the compressor back in went well, but took about 5 hours. Good thing I could do the job myself, otherwise it would have gotten expensive. I hope I never have to do that job again.

Thanks Sam