MCI MC-9 Tail/Running Light Options?

[Cecil The Diesel]

My tail light lenses are warped/cracked on my 1982 MC-9, and I would like to replace them and/or upgrade to LED.

I like the look of the round lights and want to keep them if possible just need a source, and some pointers for the LED conversion on a 24v system. Looking to upgrade the running lights on the roof/bodysides as well as the front turn signals.

Has anyone tackled this?

[Scott & Heather]

We did. American superlite.



Same on the front too:

[Cecil The Diesel]

Awesome! That looks great. The center light is held in with a round spacer riveted to the housing?

[Cecil The Diesel]

What running lights are you using on the roof?

[Scott & Heather]

Awesome! That looks great. The center light is held in with a round spacer riveted to the housing?

Yes. Uncle who owns a specialty automotive restoration shop made those rings for me out of 1/8" aluminum.

[Scott & Heather]

What running lights are you using on the roof?

SuperBrightLED's but I do NOT recommend them. They crack. Junk. I know others here feel differently, but I have never seen anything quality come from them.

[Bill B /bus]

Sorry Scott but we have used Superbright LED's as a source for three or four buses.

The taillights are easy to run 12V assemblies. Since you will eventually tow the TOAD then convert to 12V lighting by using 24V coil relays. Each relay coil is supplied with the 24V signal from the rear electrical panel. Apply 12V to the #86 pin, output will be on pin 87 when the coil is energized by the 24V signal. You will need four relays. Five, if you want backup lights through a relay. Use a plastic electrical box to mount the relay, circuit breakers and terminal assembly. You will need to run wire from the signal source for each circuit to the coil pin(30) on the relay. Other side of the coil pin (31) goes to ground. Next a wire from 12V supply to the circuit breakers, with
LED's a AWG12 will be sufficient. Each circuit breaker will be wired to pin 86. From pin 87 the wire goes to the light assembly.

Using the left turn circuit wire to the coil pin 30. Pin 87 provides the 12V flashing for the new LED and the TOAD.

Using terminal stripes allows easy wiring and troubleshooting. For instance the right turn signal doesn't blink during pretrip inspection. (No, don't tell me you don't walk around while air pressure is coming up to verify that nothing is pouring out on the ground and the lights all work.) Using a testlight (dual voltage from NAPA maybe $12) you check that the signal side is blinking and 12V is available and you don't hear or feel the relay clicking you reach into your spare parts, remove a 24V coil cube relay and replace the failed one. Now the right turn signal blinks and you spent maybe 5 mins on the fix.

The marker/running lights require the addition of a approx 700 ohm resistor in series with one lead of the fixture. My preference is the positive lead. Electrically it  makes no difference but I feel better.

So  now all the lights are easily available 12V assemblies. Well, except for the headlights which are either 24V or the MCI screwball balance line with 12V lamps in a 24V bus. Fix is simple procure one old style floor mounted headlamp dimmer switch. Use the existing 24V road lights relay to to control a 24V coil heavy duty relay. Its a round can type with four studs, two big copper and two small. The big ones are for power in and out. The two small ones are for the coil power in and out to ground.  Wire 12V through a circuit breaker to the relay. Power out lead goes to the dimmer switch. Outputs from the dimmer switch go to low beam and high beam. You'll have to find the correct wires in your electrical panel. About two days work to convert everything to 12V with LED's and fixing the headlights another day.

I did the front maker lights in the Escapees  park in Summerdale in  about 4 hours. That included removal of all the sealant gooped on to stop the water, soldering in the resistors, heat shrink application on the resistor and connections, installation, caulking and admiration of the pretty lights. Had a lot comments about why, how and etc. So not a difficult job.

Bill

[Cecil The Diesel]

Not going the TOAD route but, I might pull an enclosed trailer for gear in the future. Electricity is almost Greek to me so is this something thats simple?

I wouldn't mind converting the whole bus to 12v for ease of accessories. I have a 12v power converter from an old motorhome I had that went kaput as well as 4k Onan Genset. I've been looking into wiring it for a 50 amp recepticle/breaker box for shoring. I have the box, breakers, and wiring I just need to dedicate to tackling it.

Anyone else done this and have any pointers?

[RJ]

Cecil -

Consider the big, 7" round brake lights used on skoolies for your MC-9.  Same size as your current center brake lights, but, as you've probably noticed, a whole lot brighter.  No need to customize a mount, should fit similar to OEM.  Not too much difference in cost over the smaller ones, either.  Search skoolies suppliers for sources.

Highly recommend that you stick to amber turn signals on the rear, too.  Much more visible day and night.

Altho you didn't mention it, I'd also recommend that if you haven't changed your front headlights to the rectangular monstrosities, that you upgrade the round lights to Cibie E-code quartz-halogens.  (www.cibieusa.com)  Same H bulbs found on many of today's vehicles, but the much greater quality optics of the lenses makes for a HUGE difference driving at night.  Will set you back about $300 for a complete set of four headlamps to fit your coach including 24v bulbs if that's the way your MC-9 is set up.  A little less if you've got 12V lamps.  Pricy?  Yes, but what price SAFETY???

FWIW & HTH. . .

[Scott & Heather]

Sorry Scott but we have used Superbright LED's as a source for three or four buses.

I know most people have had a great experience, and in their defense, they've replaced all of my cracked ones for free, but I'm jut not impressed with the housings.

[bevans6]

I used A. L. Lightech 7" LED stop/tail/turn lights for my bus.  They are the same size as the stock sealed beams and come in 12V, 24V and a 12V/24V version, I used the 12V/24V ones based on the label that I just went out and looked at.  Extremely high quality, solid construction but I recall they were pricy.  They would not sell to me directly but gave me the name of a dealer who ordered for me.  The best part is they just drop in (I had to trim mine a bit with a sander on the edge) and they are 24 volt.

http://msfoster.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/AL-Lightech-Product-Inserts.pdf

Brian

[Cecil The Diesel]

I like the look of those 7" lights, and will probably give them a try. I want to keep the overall look of the bus intact just with updated technology.

RJ my bus still has the round headlights that I intend on keeping. My headlights are 12v, and as far as I can tell everything else is 24v. I do want to upgrade to the halogens or projectors though.

I've read some posts on using 12v LED running lights and wiring them in a series of 2 light per 24v source. Anybody had luck with this?

[pabusnut]

I used the 24V Trucklite LED lights.  The GMC 4905 has separate Stop, Tail and Turn.  Stop and Tail are RED LED, and Turn is AMBER.

I am happy with them and want to BE SEEN on the road, as I will be GOING SLOW in the right lane(Doing the speed limit!)

Steve Toomey
PAbusnut

[Cecil The Diesel]

Haha pabusnut thats me too. I have had her up to 85 coming through the desert out in west TX. Only cause I wasn't paying attention to my speed though.