Newbie introduction

[sdc53]

So I just bought a bus a couple months ago, a 1969 GM 4107 w/ 8v71 turbo and Allison auto trans.  I've been hanging out on the other board, but I've got a lot to learn so I've joined up here too and have been lurking up until now, just got my account approved so I thought it was time to introduce myself. 

My name is Scott and I live in Gladstone, OR.  Would be nice to get to know some local busnuts around here.  I've only met a few.  I have one good friend locally that also has a bus that talked me into selling my sticks-n-staples unit and getting something meant to last.  I've been wrenching on it in my spare time, going over lots of little things and making it mine.

We've made a few trips locally, longest trip having been when I went to fetch her in northern CA.  Got her tuned up, and have been taking her to the beach when I can.  "Her" meaning my bus.  The prior owners named the bus "Off the Hook".  I think I'm going to call her "Enterprise", not in the Trekkie sense, but rather meaning that industrious hard work pays off.

Just got back from a weekend trip to the beach - here in Oregon we have to enjoy those last bits of sunshine while we can.  The rain will be here in a few weeks.  Bus is running good except for lots of oil slobber, and heating up climbing hills.  I'm spraying the misters, shifting down, running higher revs.  Checking the dipstick frequently.  Looks like I might finally have to top off oil now.  I don't know how these things traveled the country in hotter climates without pulling over all the time on big hills. It has plenty of power, more than enough to destroy itself, IMHO.  I'm intentionally running it slower.  Radiator seems to be in good shape externally, as does the fan and shroud.  This may be an area of focus for me before we are able to venture off into warmer climates.  I also want to put in a temp gauge with more "resolution" and accuracy to it.  The one I have now has about 1/4" between the 190 and 240 marks, not giving much detail.  I think it may read about 3 to 5 degrees high, according to my laser temp experiments today.

Here are some pics of my bus.  Anyone recognize her?  She used to live in CA and parts of the southwest, maybe Florida, too.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[RJ]

Scott -

Welcome aboard!  Lots of long-time busnuts here, including some quite colorful characters!  Just by owning a bus will help you fit right in. 

Now, before going any further, please take a few minutes to edit your profile by clicking on the menu bar above.  Find the "signature" section, and edit it to include at least your first name, home base city/state, and make/model coach.  Several reasons for this, including helping to find other busnuts in the same area, being able to direct you to local sources for "stuff" and help, if needed.  No sense sending you to Luke's in NJ if you're closer to Ted's in CA!  IOW, help us help you!

If you'll post the VIN, I'll share who originally bought your coach from GMC 'way back when.  I'm pretty sure I've seen that coach before, but can't place it at the moment. . .

Oil slobber can be attributed to several things, but the first suspect is the oil you've got in the crankcase.  If it's multi-weight (15-40w), that alone could be your problem.  DDA recommends straight 40w in the two-stroke engines, so perhaps an oil change is now on the agenda?  My personal preference is Chevron's Delo 100 (p/n 100-40-1 CHV @ O'Reillys), but others like Shell Rotella, Mobile Delvac, Texaco Ursa, Exxon XD-3 or Citgo.  Most of the time you'll have to order it, usually takes a couple of days.

Many two-stroke owners have made a catch can for the breather tubes, usually out of 4" ABS drain pipe about a foot long stuffed with steel wool.  Glued cap on one end, threaded on the other for draining.  Inlets for both banks, and a breather on top to eliminate internal pressure.  Mount low for gravity flow, yet high enough to avoid being torn off.

If you haven't already read the following, you might find it helpful:

http://busnut.com/forum/index.php?action=articles;sa=view;article=41

These things ran all over the country in all kinds of weather dependably and with very little, if any, overheating problems.  Primarily because the professional drivers were taught how to keep them from overheating in the first place.  A bus down in hot weather due to driver error does not equal return riders!  Downshift manually and early, keep the revs between 1800 - 2000 on a partial throttle, and watch the smoke out the exhaust.  When you cannot maintain speed w/o a lot of black smoke, time for another downshift.

TomC will chime in soon to help explain how to use 1st gear locked up in your V-730 to reduce transmission overheating.

Water is the best coolant, anti-freeze is the worst.  A 50/50 mix is most common, but you might want to consider a 60/40 or 70/30 water/coolant mix ratio to see if that works for you.  A lot depends on the cold side of the equation in your area.

Just because a radiator "seems to be in good shape externally" doesn't mean it is so internally!  Most folk who add a turbo, also increase the core thickness in order to handle the additional heat load imposed.  (Question: What size injectors are you running?  Pop off a valve cover and report back the letter-number combo on the side of the injector for us.)

Does your coach have the full width mudflap across the vehicle just behind the rear wheels?  Lack of same can contribute to overheating issues.  Hanging a mudflap off the rear bumper is NOT a good idea - reduces the hot air flow out of the engine compartment.

When you say "got her tuned up," are you talking about having the rack run on the Detroit? 

Tell us how you'd compare the ride of your bus compared to the ride of your stick-n-staple.  Might be some lurkers who'd like some comparison notes!

Again, Scott, welcome aboard!

FWIW & HTH. . .

[Slow Rider]

Welcome aboard ( insert name here ),  pay heed to what ever RJ tells you, we listen when he talks.  Nice looking bus.  Please share some interior pics if you feel comfortable doing that.  Don't be afraid to ask or comment, easiest way to learn.

Look forward to many more posts from you in the future.

Frank

[sdc53]

Hi RJ,
Signature updated.

My vin is PD4107-1235, someone looked it up for me before on the other board.  Oil has been changed, running delo 100 40wt.

I have a slobber catch thing identical to what you described, does it need to be cleaned out periodically? What is the proper procedure?

I have read your article on shifting before, particularly when I was seriously considering buying a 4104 stick.  Would be good to learn about getting my auto to lockup in first, I did a couple of times recently but it was hard to get it to stay there.

I have N75 injectors, the rack was run professionally here by a good shop locally.

It does have the mudflap all the way across near the bumper.  I think I'll move it forward behind the rear wheels, but that means the toad will get even MORE slobber on it.  I'll need to figure out the mounting situation there.

It does ride a lot better then our old motorhome, which is for sale by the way.  It gets 1/3 the gas mileage, though.  Our old motorhome was a 24' class C built on a dodge sprinter 3500 turbo diesel chassis.  It rode nice in front, but was sprung like a cargo van in back because that's what it started life as.

[sdc53]

Frank,
Here are some interior pics of my bus.  I believe some of the craftsmanship is by the prior owners twice removed.  I can't nail two boards together to save my life but I can do plumbing, electrical, and mechanical work.  I have a machine shop in my basement, but the big diesel stuff is fairly foreign to me. No problem working on my own small cars and trucks, so I'm learning.








Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[Ed Hackenbruch]

When i first got my bus i kept the oil up to the full mark but got oil all over my jeep. Found that it would blow out a gallon in 200 miles or so. Then i remembered what a mechanic showed me back when i first started running equipment with a Detroit in it. It will blow out excess oil until it reaches a certain level and then it will stay there for a long time. Mine will drop down to the add mark and stay there for 1500 miles or more.  No more oil on the jeep.

[RJ]

Frank -

Thank you for your kind words, they are appreciated!


Scott -

The VIN info you got on the other board probably came from either me or JL Vickers - we both have the same Delivery List.  But for repeat purposes:  PD4107-1235 was delivered new as fleet number 552 in February of 1969 to Southwestern Transit Co, HQ'd in Belton, TX.  Perhaps JLV can add some additional info on Southwestern, since he lives in TX and might be familiar with them.

Back to oil slobber. . . That canister should be drained, those that have them usually include that chore when they're changing the engine oil.  Some re-stuff the canister w/ fresh steel wool from the hardware store at the same time, others simply rinse out in solvent and re-install.  IIRC, they use either 000 or 0000 to help trap the oil droplets.

As you trace the slobber lines back to the engine, you should find a check valve on the block for each hose.  Make sure those check valves are working, replace if in doubt.  They're supposed to close when the air pressure inside the block gets to a certain point/rpm.

Excessive idling can increase the slobbering, too.  Keep idle time to a minimum, and if you have to, it's better to use the fast idle.  Keeps the oil pressure up on the crank & rod bearings, among other things.

When you get some free time (   ),  you should "steam clean" the engine compartment.  Getting the powertrain all nice and clean will really help you trace any leaks which might be contributing to the oil mess.  Added bonus: Less muck on the toad!

Ed's comment about his coach's engine finding a "sweet spot" for the oil level is something that's been chatted about numerous times over the years.  Overfilling can easily lead to blowing out excess, so experimentation is in order!  But first - make sure your dipstick is reading accurately!  Not uncommon to have it somewhat inaccurate - it might have been "borrowed" off another engine with a different oil pan capacity. . .  The proper "full" level on these engines is 1" below the oil pan/engine block interface - hold the stick against the tube to measure and perhaps re-mark. (May need a second pair of hands for this. . .)  Oh, and this is a BIG engine - it takes a good 20 minutes minimum for the majority of oil to drain back down into the pan, so don't check it too soon after shutdown.

I'd move that mudflap to behind the rear axle before your next journey, if possible.  A carwash for the toad is cheaper than an engine for the coach!

Nice pic, too!  Have you perhaps got them all together on PhotoBucket or Flicker?

FWIW & HTH. . .

[Barn Owl]

Welcome, and nice bus.

[harleyman_1000]

 Love the bus! Im new also. What other board? I need all the help I can get......
Scott

[Ed Hackenbruch]

BNO is the other main board. Depending on what brand of bus you have there are also boards for MCI, GM, FLX, Eagle, Prevost, schoolies, etc. Just use google and see what you can find.   

[Dreamscape]

Next time you are over at the coast give us a shout. We are parked for the winter at Seal Rocks RV Cove just south of Newport. Would be good to meet another bus nut! You can't miss us, we are the blue Eagle on the hill with a great view of the Ocean!



Sounds like you found a keeper! Enjoy and ask away, that's what the bus board is for!

[luvrbus]

Check to see if the air box drains are plumbed the right way, that engine laying on one side is not plumbed like a regular 8v71 fwiw many of changes were made trying to clear up that problem.

I never saw a GM with a turbo that didn't run hot because of the fan setup and if it calls for 7 gals of oil use it that is a old wifes tale only way a 71 will throw the oil out is because of another problem every gal low the oil temps increase keep it full just make sure the dip stick is right never run one low the oil cools the pistons, fire away guys lol

[sdc53]

Thanks for the compliments!

Dreamscape we get over to Newport area once in a while, usually Lincoln city area but we might venture down that way.  Like beverly beach campground quite a bit.  We stay at the sand and sea RV resort (ocean view) south of lincoln city frequently. Are you permanently staying at that place?  Looks like another ocean view one..

Luvrbus it takes 7 gals, yes cause that's what it took to fill it including filter at the oil change.  However when I picked it up, noticed the PO was running it over-full.  Wonder if that was on purpose... The full line on the dipstick is even with the pan/block interface. Not sure how that pan holds 7 gals, cause it doesn't look that big from the size of it (long flat and seemingly shallow) but it does.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[Dreamscape]

We'll be here until the first of March! Come on down! Or we could meet you at Sea and Sand, either way it would be great to meet up.

We are camp hosting here for six months. Can't wait to see the stormy sea!

[Kevin]

Hi Scott,

Sweet looking coach! Have you visited with Sam ("greyghost") on BNO? He also owns a really nice 4107 and lives in Enterprise, Oregon. Welcome aboard. This site is great! Many of the same posters here as well as "there".

Enjoy your beautiful bus!

Kevin