Basement a/c ?
 

Basement a/c ?

Started by zukmancdr, August 01, 2012, 06:44:15 PM

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zukmancdr

How well do you guys and gals thank this would work?

http://www.rvpartsnation.com/product/11356/park-model-a-c

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Oonrahnjay

Quote from: zukmancdr on August 01, 2012, 06:44:15 PM
How well do you guys and gals thank this would work?

http://www.rvpartsnation.com/product/11356/park-model-a-c 

      Looks like it's a good bit more expensive than a mini-split, is bigger physically, and pulls a lot (60-70-80%??) more power.  I'm not thinking that is a very good bet.  (It's also described as being made for stationary "park" units.)  My first look is that there's not much to recommend it.
Bruce H; Wallace (near Wilmington) NC
1976 Daimler (British) Double-Decker Bus; 34' long

(New Email -- brucebearnc@ (theGoogle gmail place) .com)

bobofthenorth

Looks a lot like the monster in my basement.  Makes a lot of noise and not much cold.

Run away.
R.J.(Bob) Evans
Used to be 1981 Prevost 8-92, 10 spd
Currently busless (and not looking)

The last thing I would ever want to do is hurt you.
Its the last thing but its still on the list.

zukmancdr

Just checking. I keep hearing problems with the mini splits. I know there are always someone having problems with everything.  My road air still works so I just need something during parking. I just need to do some more research on bussing. I have had a fifth wheel camper for about five years now and I finely found a good bus( 1987 MCI 102A3).

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Brassman

It's too bad there isn't some sort of "scientific study" of the different AC options available for bus converters. We've got the roof top, the window, the mini-split, the portable, and the basement unit. Converters have used 'em all, but we can't simply tell which is best for a particular application without some way of cross referencing this board's wide experience.

Anyway, that park model basement unit sure seem to be a dog, but I say buy and install it. Then let us know how it works out.


This message typed from one of them smart phones. Not something I'd brag about. ;-)


oldmansax

One of the things to consider about A/C units in general is any residential or commercial systems have to be certified by ASHRAE. Therefore, you actually get whatever capacity the specs say it produces. The RV models have such certification and are labeled on whatever the manufacturer says they produce. I think some manufacturers are overly optimistic. Also, even though their figures may be correct, they may be useless. For example, a unit may be rated for 12,000 BTUs at 70F. At 95F, it may only produce 8000 BTUs, which is when you really need the cooling.

TOM
1995 Wanderlodge WB40 current
1985 Wanderlodge PT36
1990 Holiday Rambler
1982 Wanderlodge PT40
1972 MCI MC7

TomC

Typically-a basement unit will have the same equipment inside as the roof top, but just in a cabinet instead.  The big thing about a park model is that the manufacture probably did not take any effort to support the freon lines from vibration.  So while it sounds good on paper, choose a basement unit that is made for the motorhome, not a park model. 

The price of this at over $1,200.00 is why I modified a roof top Penguin 15,000btu at around $800.00 to work as a basement unit.  Good Luck, TomC
Tom & Donna Christman. 1985 Kenworth 40ft Super C with garage. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.

zukmancdr

Quote from: TomC on August 02, 2012, 05:59:16 AM
I modified a roof top Penguin 15,000btu at around $800.00 to work as a basement unit.  Good Luck, TomC
do you have a write up on this setup?

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belfert

Coleman makes (or made) a unit designed for RVs that is almost identical.  The one Gumpy installed is the one for RVs.  Ron the Bus Nut has the RV version of these in a heat pump for $850 each.
Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN

robertglines1

I hate to even comment even more::: you hear all bad experiences. not many good. Everything has trade offs  . Dwayne has had his Mini-split in his bus for over 5 yrs. I put them in mine. I anchored every line secure and well insulated. I built my own basement air with window AC 10yrs ago. I have used roof tops. By easiest  for conversion process.  So we all do it differant.  I carry repair parts with me for any; in case I need them or need to help some else.  Do it your way.  If power $ is not a option . use what you have in mind.  Enjoy the ride. Happy bussin     Bob    PS I just cut 3 holes in side of a perfectally good prevost..
Bob@Judy  98 XLE prevost with 3 slides --Home done---last one! SW INdiana

robertglines1

By the way see your from Tn. I'm from sw Indiana.  Have some conversion parts free to good home if your just getting started..   Bob
Bob@Judy  98 XLE prevost with 3 slides --Home done---last one! SW INdiana

zukmancdr

Bob, yes I am just starting out with the conversion. I am working out of town so I am not getting any work done on the at the moment. As I am starting, I have not been around the mini splits. As you say that it has a lot to do with the installer if is was secured properly. I would be interested in the items but it might be around November before I am able to come by unless we get sent up there to work. I have been from Joaquin, Tx to Oak Hill, Oh this year.

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viking1

I have a 2 ton basement unit very much like the one your looking at. I have it ducted through the interior of the bus. Blows very cold, works great. Only complaint is that it pulls alot of amps. I paid 500 bucks for mine, still in the box. I think Gary at B&B coach in Vegas still has a couple. Might call him before you spend over 1K

Thomas
Price is what you pay.  Value is what you get

TomC

Link to pictures of my conversion of the Penguin roof tops to basement airs. I used 15,000btu units that have a stronger blower.  http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=22810.0  Good Luck, TomC
Tom & Donna Christman. 1985 Kenworth 40ft Super C with garage. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.