Toilet / black tank flanges

[dukegrad98]

Are the flanges/connectors between the toilet and the pipe to the black tank universal?  My toilet isn't in great shape, so I think it's getting replaced during the interior remodel.  Before I drop cash on a new toilet, I want to make sure it's a simple bolt-up to the existing plumbing.  There will be unpleasantries for the time the tank is "open."  We may have to use a portable dump solution since the bus is in dry-dock right now.

Thanks for any tips.

Cheers, John

[belfert]

The flange should be universal.  I just used a standard toilet flange and it works fine with an RV toilet.  RV toilets use a foam or rubber gasket instead of a wax ring to seal the toilet to the flange.  I would make sure you have a new gasket if the new toilet doesn't have one.

[thomasinnv]

It is a standard household toilet flange.

[dukegrad98]

Fantastic news, thanks guys.  I didn't want to pull anything up and go spelunking until I have new parts here and am ready to handle the full install.  The seal will definitely need replacing -- the toilet has taken a few bumps during demolition and renovation, and every once in awhile it's pretty ripe in there. 

Anybody have a favorite RV-style toilet they'd recommend?  I can't stand the look of a square pooper, so I was considering something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&vxp=mtr&item=400296488095

Thanks again --
Cheers, John

[Lin]

As I remember it, there can be different flanges.  Some may have two bolts and some could have even four.  I definitely had to change the flange once or twice in different RV's when changing the toilet.  If the toilet base has the same bolt pattern and orientation on the new one as the old, you may not have to change the flange.  However, the screws holding the flange down are likely to be seriously rusted, and you may want to renew things while your there.

[dukegrad98]

...you may want to renew things while your there.

Good tip on rusty bolts.  I haven't opened up anything on the bus yet without completely replacing it, from the ceiling right down to the subfloor.  As a result I've told my contractor that he's not allowed to open the engine compartment!   

I'll have to figure out if it's a 2-bolt or a 4-bolt, then try to go from there.  May just have to pull the toilet and black tank out to avoid the stink while we R&R the bathroom.  Ordering a shower is also on the to-do list.

Cheers, John

[Bussman84]

John, that looks like the same model we went with happy with it so far. Basic 2 bolt mount bolted right up to a standard toilet flange should be readily available at your favorite hardware store if need be, should come with new bowl gasket and mounting hardware.

        Good luck, Billy

[Lin]

I think that one time I changed a toilet to a different brand, it had the same bolt pattern but was maybe 45 degrees  different in placement leaving the toilet facing half sideways.   You can always plug the pipe to avoid odor and not try to remove the tank.  

[Van]

My new Dometic came with the flange, but bought beefy er one at Ace.

[Iceni John]

I too have a Dometic 310, and I used the Sioux Chief stainless steel flange that glues over a piece of 3" ABS pipe (or it slips inside 4" pipe).   There's a slight difference in bolt spacing between the flange and the loo, but in practice everything bolted together without a problem.   I did however need to slightly bevel the outside of the bottom of the loo where it sits inside the top of the flange;  this meant it fitted better to the flange without rocking and without needing to over-tighten the nuts.   I suggest not using the supplied flange nuts for the T-bolts, and instead use stainless Nylok nuts and stainless washers.

Incidentally, American RV in Azusa CA has some of the best prices for these loos.   I paid about $125 for mine.

John