Cost of Jake Brake install

[RnMAdventures]

I was rough quoted $5000-$6000 to install a jake brake on my 4106. Does that sound like a good ball park price. I was under the impression it would be half that price, but it looks like i am way off???

[OneLapper]

ummm... I'd say that's way off unless it's a DD dealer that gave you the quote.

I paid $500 for a used set which included the tall valve covers off a truck engine, $300 for the rebuild kit, $230 for one tall valve cover without the holes for the vents (yup, that's a lot pay but it sticks out the back, soo.....).

It took me 10 hours to install, wire, test and run the racks.

Hope that helps!

BTW, I love driving my 4106 even more with the Jakes. Worth the money and effort.

Mark

[Barn Owl]

For that kind of coin I would learn to do it myself. I have them on mine and I like them, but I wouldn't like them at that price.  I live in an area where there are many steep grades, and I will admit, if my Jake brake quits I pull over and fix it on the side of the road. They work very well on the featherweight 4106.

[Lin]

When Don did mine, it was in conjunction with other work, so I do not know that actual complete cost.  However, the rebuilt Jakes were around 900-1000, and I believe the install was less than another 1000.  I did do the wiring myself though.

[wg4t50]

I like most guys, bought a used set, bought the rebuild kits, tools and manuals, then rebuilt and installed.  For me, I really do not trust 9 out of 10 so called diesel mechanics, no matter how many DD engines they have screwed up.  And after finding the crap/sloppy work done on a 6-71 4104 by Stevenson in Houston, I felt they should have refunded the $600.00 they charged the poor soul for a tune up.  Meaning, the entire job, was screwed up, valve adjustment gap ran from .012 to .030.  As for the rack, it would only open approx. 70% and all injectors were not on the same page as the others.  Total slop, sign the "Expert Mechanic was drunk or just did not give a Da@
I recommend you learn how to fix your own stuff, it will save you a lot of money snf will most likely run better.
Cheers

[white-eagle]

i bought mine for $1000, complete, no fast idle.  another $2k for the install by someone else who originally said $1500.  (said it was tight space, took longer than anticipated, etc.) already had the valve covers.

your price sounds real high.  i'd look elsewhere.

[PSmith]

Do it youself- learn  - keep other folks grubby hands off your bus - I DO

[Nick Badame Refrig/ACC]

Hi Mike,

Here is my Jake Install thread from a few years ago.
http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=5045.0

Hope this helps!
Nick-

[bevans6]

The only tricky part of installing the jake brake setup is getting the new exhaust bridge adjusted.  Depending on how tight things are around the engine I can see that taking some time to get right, since it needs to be done carefully and accurately, and both on and off the head.  That assumes that the jake modules and the exhaust bridges are ready to go and no issues (I had to have the bridges refinished on mine)

After the bridges are adjusted and installed, it's just a matter of re-installing the valve rockers, bolting on the jake modules, adjusting the oil bridges between master and slave modules, adjusting all the valves, checking the timing on the injectors (no real reason why it would have changed, but you have to check and reset if needed).  Then you adjust the jake clearance and that part of the install is basically done.  Now, you have to install the new fuel piping to the injectors and check the rack adjustment - you don't disturb the rack adjustment so it shouldn't have to be reset, but you should check.  Now the final step is to install the wiring, wire back to the buffer switch and up to the front of the bus with your choice of switches and interlocks - a clutch switch on a manual trans, for example.  Single or double bank switching for single or double stage jake engagement.

After you do that, you need to install the buffer switch in place of the buffer screw on the governor (I have no idea what you do with a DDEC, which I presume doesn't have a buffer switch), and adjust the buffer switch setting.  Then you have to test it all to see if it works.  Then you get to take it for a drive and be amazed at what you have accomplished!

None of this requires weirdly special tools or skills that a good mechanic doesn't have, but some of it is fiddly.  I am going to say that from the time you open the box of used jake stuff that you got off Ebay to parking the bus after the test drive is going to take at least 20 hours, if you include a trip to the machine shop to refinish the exhaust bridges, getting new O-rings for the oil bridges, checking the fuel bridge pipes for cracking or switching from the flare type pipes to the O-ring type pipes like I did, figuring out the wiring, installing the switches on your dash panel, the neutral switch or clutch switch, the actual mechanical work, which is easy, the adjustments of the valves, the injector timing, checking the fuel rack adjustments, and setting the buffer switch correctly.  On my bus, for example, I'd have to take the turbo plumbing and air cleaner off just to get the drivers side valve cover off...

Anyway, that's what we are talking about when we say "just install them yourself..."  

Edit - just read Nick's thread, got the impression of - two guys, two days for the initial install, another day for the second go to fix the bad solenoids, figure a day for the rebuild, total of 6 days.  Kind of in line with my thought on 20 hours for the initial install including the adjustments and the wiring.  Every one will be different!

Brian

[luvrbus]

Jake Brake bridges are getting hard to find for a 71 series that are with in spec a new set of bridges if you can find a set will cost a 1000 bucks just for the bridges you cannot redo the slot on a bridge and that is where you get the most wear,if you do piece a set together use the 71/92A housing don't waste your money on the old 71 Jake housing.

Get you some help from someone that knows about Jakes on your 71 series if A timing is on your 71 series engine it takes a different setting from standard timed engines some people do good installing Jakes some are not so lucky

I have seen a bunch of blown engines from people trying to save a few bucks by doing it their self 2000 to 3000 dollars should get you a good set and installation

You pay 500 bucks for a set you get 500 bucks worth of parts most of the time JMO Two friends of mine Derrick and Mike here on the board Derrick was lucky on the set he bought needed nothing Mike wasn't that lucky it took 2 sets for Mike to make 1 good set.
As for the valve covers it makes no difference where the holes are for the breather DD sell covers for the breather holes a lot cheaper than 230 bucks something like 12 bucks

You will have to do a cutout on the tailgate for Jakes if you don't know what you are doing suggest you leave the Jakes alone


good luck

[bevans6]

Clifford, are you aware of a reason why you couldn't weld up the slot and re-machine it?  I think it would be a tricky weld since I believe the bridges are cast iron, but there are processes to weld cast iron.  The machine work would be easy once you built a jig.  I would be more worried at that point about the guide hole that they ride on wearing out.  I didn't think that they were particularly hardened, they didn't look like they were nitrided or anything like that, and when I asked my machinist (who used to specialize in marine two strokes back when they were more common) he said he never thought they were hardened.

Brian

[luvrbus]

Brian, the bridges are design to wear and not the bridge studs if you ever broke or replaced a bridge stud in the head that is a good feature the studs are a pita to replace lol not as easy as the book shows

good luck

[artvonne]

  A new "how to" thread for DIY Jakes install with lots of pictures and discussion would be awesome.

[RnMAdventures]

ummm... I'd say that's way off unless it's a DD dealer that gave you the quote.

I paid $500 for a used set which included the tall valve covers off a truck engine, $300 for the rebuild kit, $230 for one tall valve cover without the holes for the vents (yup, that's a lot pay but it sticks out the back, soo.....).

It took me 10 hours to install, wire, test and run the racks.

It was big name brand in Houston that gave the quote. I like your (and all the others on this thread) price range. I work on my own cars/bike most of the time. I have never worked on a Detroit. I do want to learn it. Thanks for the info.

Thank all of you for your responses.

Barn Owl,  when I heard the price I was thinking the same thing.

Wg4t50 & NoRivets: over the years I have worked on my own stuff because I either didn't trust the mechanic or just didn't have the money. In most cases, I found that the job wasn't near as bad as I thought. I am going to research what exactly is involved and consider trying it.

Nick, thanks for the thread. Reading it now.

Brian, thanks for the details of the process. Your post is very encouraging for me to try it myself. With the HOA having a 7 day limit on how  long the bus can stay in the driveway at a time, it will be like an episode of American Chopper... got 7 days to get this done before the HOA lady takes a picture of my bus and sends me a nasty letter... lol

Clifford, thanks for the info and advice. I didn't realize I would have to cut a slot in the back for the valve cover. If you know (or anyone else) knows of a mechanic I can get this installed for $3000 within a few states of Texas, please send me their info. I have no problem helping with the install or staying out of the way. The issue I have is with mechanics is finding one I can trust.

Lin & white-eagle (anyone else I forgot) thanks for the pricing info.

Maybe if I can do some of the grunt work and get a Mechanic to come to my house and to the technical side of it I can get this done at a reasonable price.

Wg4t50: the same outfit is the one that gave me the quote.

Thanks again everyone.

[bevans6]

Mike, FWIW my MCI manual has a very detailed section on installing jake brakes, from start to finish.  I have no idea why they put it in the bus manual, but there it is...  If you want a copy, let me know and I will see about how to do that.

Brian