Heater/Air Conditioner

[robertgm62]

Starting a new project on my 4106 I am looking at removing the Heater and A/C unit as I want to use that space for a Generator on one side and propane on the Other.

As I was reading the Manual it say's the A/C is a stand alone unit and the heater section has the two line's running from the Engine/Radiator has anyone else done this and is it a big problem to remove it.

All I can see really are the two water line's can they be caped or run a hose from one to the other seeing one is the out and return I kinda think the air tank that runs to the A/C also supply's the air bags to the front of the coach have not gotten all the way into it to see everything that is going on.

[gus]

Don't remove the bus heat, it is great if you have enough left to make it work. Just remove the AC evaporator, cond, freon lines and compressor and leave the rest.

The AC evaporator is just mounted in the same container as the heater core and looks like a small auto radiator. Leave the heater core, seal in around it so all air will flow through it and enjoy.

The windshield defroster system is hooked into the heater water lines and it works great too if you leave it in place. Just be sure not to block any of the defroster outlets, a mistake made by converters of both my buses.

These long water lines to heater and defroster also give you some extra gallons of coolant in hot weather, I've used them a couple of time to help cool down the engine on long climbs.

[buswarrior]

x2.

In the minimum, leave the lines connected so that your defroster continues to receive heated coolant.

How are you going to stay warm while traveling in cool temperatures?

You have to terminate the airline to the heat control valve properly, or the coach air system will be compromised.

Do you have the maintenance manuals for your coach? Be sure you understand what you have, before you unwittingly remove something you'll wish that you kept, when you do understand...

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[robertgm62]

I have the Maintenance Manual been reading it and learning what I can.

I had assumed I would have to properly cap off the air going to the heat and A/C regulators I also figured that the tank up front of the coach supplied the air bags in the front too.

We don't travel in cold weather per say and I had installed a Propane Furnace which is vented and keeps the whole coach warm when we do our last Rally in October I put it away for the winter.

We Run between May and October we still have kid's in school and work we have one big trip to Wisconsin in July everything else so far is still in Michigan were working on other Travel's but in no hurry it's usually spare of the moment when we do but we do plan on a Kentucky and Arkansas trip.

[viking42]

\Also have o6 model, removed air and heater,  advise ,keep defrost mode

will keep front of bus warm down to 20 degrees, also in Mi

[kingfa39]

i removed it all from my 06 because it was all junk except the defroster in the front. i used a propane surban furnace or elec heaters in the winter months. i also had a engine driven A/C with dual colling units totalling 47000 btu,s for the road and two roof tops rarely ran on the road. i capped the the hoses to the heater core
Frank allen

[gus]

Yeah, the last two posters have it right. Unless your original big blower and heat exchanger are in good condition I wouldn't keep it either. I would just hook up the old lines to something like a big bus heater or two which will easily do the job. That old blower motor draws a big bunch of amps and is really not necessary for a conversion.

That original defroster is a really good one as long as the blower motors still work. One of mine is out but one is plenty.

[TomC]

I used the original heater core that's huge (like 70"x20") and had it pressure tested.  I mounted it under the cabinets and washer/dryer in the hallway with 4 vents facing out to the hallway.  It is powered with 2-14" 12vdc radiator fans-a bit noisy, but not to bad when driving.  When they kick on, you can count to 10 and feel the heat at the driver's seat-very powerful.  Good Luck, TomC

[gus]

That pretty much describes the original heating systems on both my buses, the only difference being the 4107 needs the pump running but I attribute that to the loop in the water heater and the other loop that went to the removed Webasto.

[Van]

TomC, just curious, are you using any booster pumps to move the coolant thru that core? or is that set up close enough to the the engine room to not need any? I like the way you did yours. 

    All the best!
          Van

[TomC]

I did retain the booster pump and wired it to a toggle switch on the dash.  The heater uses the original heating lines that also continues up to the defroster (running along the corner on the left side of the floor).  The ball valve is just on the big heater-the defroster has its' own ball valve at the driver's seat. Although I do have the booster pump, the engine's water pump is powerful enough to propel the coolant to the defroster in front.  If the heat coming out of the big heater isn't enough (has to be in the 30's for that), I'll kick in the booster pump that does increase water flow and heat output.  Good Luck, TomC

[Van]

Thanks Tom for the reply. Now I have one more item on the to do list, nice set up indeed.

     Van