Pulling the Heads on a 6V92 Turbo

[Bus Busted]

   In the middle of pulling the heads, pass side first. Looking to remove the rod (in the 1st picture labeled "A") Was wondering about the best way to do it. Do I remove the things holding it? (Pic 2 Parts "C") or do I remove the unit by splitting it at this seem? (pic 3 at point "D") 

   Also it looks like the tubes (back to 1st pic label "B") need to be removed to get to the head bolts. Can I loosen one end and remove the other end and just move it out of the way?

   Just looking for thoughts, Thanks Jon

[luvrbus]

Take both governor control rods out and remove the fuel tube with both stands on each rod you are going to need to redo all the settings on top,you need to buy a set of head guides to reinstall the heads and when you get to the square gasket I'll give you a tip on installing and keeping it in place

good luck

[oldmansax]

what Luvrbus said.

TOM

[eagle19952]

Ok  not a wise @$#...put the valve cover back on and clean it till you can eat off it......
paper matches.

[eagle19952]

DO NOT disturb seam "D".
Find the person who used silicone sealant and .....
Repllace it with aviation grade Permatex
or loctite Gasket replacer < where paper gaskets are used,(but still use the gasket)

[eagle19952]

Ok  not a wise @$#...put the valve cover back on and clean it till you can eat off the engine......
paper matches.

[luvrbus]

You will have 2 slotted pins that screw out to remove the governor linkage 

good luck

[eagle19952]

You will have 2 slotted pins that screw out to remove the governor linkage 

good luck

They are called the jeez-us pins....cuz thats the first thing you say when you drop them.....

[thomasinnv]

little trick Clifford tought me this week...get a big magnet on a stick and set it in there under the pin so WHEN you drop it the magnet will grab it instead of falling down out of sight.

[artvonne]

Ok  not a wise @$#...put the valve cover back on and clean it till you can eat off it......
paper matches.

  I was thinking the same thing. My old 71 was cleaner than that "before" I cleaned it.

  Were not pickin on ya, just that dirt and mechanical stuff really dont like each other as much as it looks like they do. Engines leak oil, dirt sticks to oil, over time it forms crusty dirty goo. Dirts going to fall in your motor, get into hose and line fittings, etc.. When you lift the heads, the crud behind the blowers going to fall, some will get in your cylinders. If you pop the covers on and blast it, you can eleviate a lot of that dirt being around to fall into anything.

[eagle19952]

little trick Clifford tought me this week...get a big magnet on a stick and set it in there under the pin so WHEN you drop it the magnet will grab it instead of falling down out of sight.

ah HUH......i'll bet clifford knows  a few more.
and it will keep you from saying 6 Hail Mary's and 1 Act of Contrition

[Bus Busted]

   Thanks for the good posts and info. It's not too late to put the valve covers back on and clean. Should be able to seal turbo with no trouble. Not sure I understand the "paper matches" part though. Does that mean I should set fire to it? Write it off, lol. I will be picking up a big magnet today.

   This motor leaks water out the slobber tube, but almost no water into the oil pan. Runs well, but has what seems like one cylinder leaking exhaust into the water system (open a water drain and a little exhaust will keep coming out). There is very little smoke at idle, a bit of white smoke when I step on the gas and over 1/2 throttle it wants to push oil out of the dipstick.

   I am not beyond putting another motor in it, but first I'm going to take this time to see how bad things really are and how hard it is to work on one of these. Even if I swap out the motor, I still would have had to remove what I already have removed, so no harm there. Seems the main cost of this is the labor and I'm doing that for now. Might have to give Clifford a call if I get in too deep. Thanks again for the help. Back at it today.

[eagle19952]

   Not sure I understand the "paper matches" part though. Does that mean I should set fire to it? Write it off, lol. I will be picking up a big magnet today.

not yet.....Maybe when you go back together,...... but not yet

[thomasinnv]

if your bent on tearing this thing apart, with the intent on fixing it and putting it back together, you really need to get a manual. There are several little tips and tricks that just make life easier that are covered in the manual. You also need to know the torque specs and sequence when putting it back together. one wrong move could cost you hours and more money than a manual.

[artvonne]

   Thanks for the good posts and info. It's not too late to put the valve covers back on and clean. Should be able to seal turbo with no trouble. I will be picking up a big magnet today.

   This motor leaks water out the slobber tube, but almost no water into the oil pan. Runs well, but has what seems like one cylinder leaking exhaust into the water system (open a water drain and a little exhaust will keep coming out). There is very little smoke at idle, a bit of white smoke when I step on the gas and over 1/2 throttle it wants to push oil out of the dipstick.

   I am not beyond putting another motor in it, but first I'm going to take this time to see how bad things really are and how hard it is to work on one of these. Even if I swap out the motor, I still would have had to remove what I already have removed, so no harm there.

  Others with more experience with these particular engines will likely chime in, but water out the slobber tubes (I think many prefer them called blower drains?) means coolant has breached somewhere above the transfer port area. Liner seal, head gasket ring, cracked head or block...Most likely its some gasket/seal thing.

  White exhaust may likely be steam, how you can tell, does it disipate into thin air, or does it just waft away in the breeze. Steam evaporates. Oil doesnt.

  Pushing oil out the dipstick means its building higher than normal crankcase pressure. The things most likely to cause that are a plown piston or really bad rings. But as these motors are blown, it could have a leak between the pressure section and crankcase where induction air between the blower and cylinder liners is somehow getting into bottom end. As many have posted, antifreeze is destructive to crank bearings, your going to want to get down there too and if your fixing anything, just replace em all. Provided there is nothing nasty going on down there.

  Dirt truly is your biggest enemy. Even if your going to swap motors, I would do all I could to clean that oil breathin dragon. You likely have dirt in those line fitting seen in the pics. You need to remove those lines and blow them out from the opposite end. Better is to just remove them and blow them out with solvent. Gunk it, hose it down, whatever ya gotta do to knock the majority of filth down, and youll be much less burnt out when you start wrenching on it.

  If you can get the heads off your probably around 50% of the way in, +/-. Guys like me will be diligently watching from the sidelines.