MC5B entrance door...

[artvonne]

  I was reading that the upper hinge pin/bolt on the door also adjusted the height, and I would like to adjust the door up about 1/4 inch or so. The bolt is pretty rusty and frozen, so I knew better than to start cranking on it before asking a couple questions.

  Is the door hinge threaded, so the hinge bolt threads up through it? Is that how it adjusts height? I see a grease zerk on the bottom, dry as a bone, probably not greased since it left the factory.

  Trying to decide how best to proceed. Cut the bolt, take off the door, deal with it on a table, or what exactly. If the hinge is threaded and that bolt is froze inside it, it could really be a bear.

[bevans6]

The hinge adjustment is fairly easy, if a total PITA.  there is a long ACME thread bolt that is captured with a lock nut on the very top, that is quite hard to get at.  You loosen that very top lock nut, then you can crank the long threaded rod from it's bottom where the grease nipple is to make the adjustment, then you lock it again with the lock nut.  You can't turn the adjuster until you loosen the lock nut, and if you haven't done it before you don't know there is a lock nut...

Edit:  Yes the inside of the hinge is threaded, that's how the door swings, it pivots on the ACME threaded rod which is captured in place.  don't forget to loosen the lower hinge when you adjust it.  If the door opens and closes, you know that the hinge pin is not frozen inside the hinge so all you need to do is loosen the lock nut at the very top.  Just loosen it, don't take it off or you will never get it back on.

Brian

[artvonne]

  I see the nut on top, the whole thing swings with the door. IOW, the door is not hinging on the bolt threads, the entire bolt is turning with the door.

[bevans6]

That would be wrong, then.  If you decide to take the door off, leave the hinge in place and take the door off the hinge first.  The door is very heavy.  Maybe if you can get some grease in it, you can get it loose.

Brian

[artvonne]

  I can take the door off if I have to. But im starting to think this could turn into a big nasty project.

  What exactly is supposed to keep the bolt from turning, is it keyed into the steel plates? If it was it isnt now. I tried putting a wrench on the top nut, and bottom of the bolt, the whole bugger just swings with the door.

  If its really froze inside the arm, im going to have to cut the bolt to get it out, then drill out the arm. Yuck! Gonna soak it a while and try some heat first.

[bevans6]

The long bolt has a shoulder on the top, it is necked down where the lock nut is.  The necked down portion fits through a hole in the mounting bracket and the lock nut is tightened to lock the bolt to the bracket.  that is what keeps the long bolt from turning.  The lock nut is a half-height nut, there is a typical lock washer under it, then there is an internal star washer to grab on to the bracket.

part 25 in the picture.  I would loosen the top nut, part number 29, then hold the door in place and start to work on getting the long bolt to move inside the hinge with some grease and a little muscle.  It will probably come loose.

Brian

[artvonne]

  Thanks for the pic Brian, it confirms what I thought I was looking at. I think ill try getting some heat and penetrant into it before I start trying to crank on it. I certainly dont need it done today.

[rgrauto]

Check to make sure that one end of the long rod is not left-handed threads if you are adj. this link. HTH Glen

[bevans6]

The part 25 bolt is all one thread, normal RH thread but a square thread (I think it's actually ACME thread form but it might be square) and the lower hex head is formed as part of the bolt, it's not a separate nut.  The nut on the necked down portion at the top is 1/2" NF right hand and takes a 3/4" wrench I think.  I tell you what, I had to have it out before I could figure it out, I took the hinge off a donor bus "hard" - it wasn't pretty...

Brian